Glo / Zebra Danio pinched back fin

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isaakw

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Apr 5, 2022
Messages
14
Hi everyone,

I started my first tank about 3 weeks ago and have ran into some issues.
I let the tank run for a week with just plants in it before adding 5 glo danios. With my first 5 danios, I noticed 1 had a pinched back fin and ended up dying a day later. The other 4 were healthy and thriving. I added another. Then, about a week later, I found the smallest one dead as well. Again, replaced the danio :(

They often chase each other around, it seems sometimes fin nipping. I thought zebra danios were mostly not aggressive? Are they stressed?
Today, I noticed another danio has developed a pinched back fin and isn’t moving too good.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my first tank and I’m becoming really discouraged :(

Tank:
15 gallon fluval flex - Only 5 danios

Products:
Tetra Aquastart
API Quick Start
API PH Up
API Leaf Zone

Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
pH 7
KH 80
GH 100
(Don’t have a measurement for ammonia. Ordered tests and they are on the way)

I attached a few photos. He usually sits in the top left by the surface alone.
 

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What are the water parameters?

It seems that your tank might not be cycled yet.

You would need to get your water checked to see if you have toxic water from ammonia, nitrite and/or nitrate.

Read up on this article below, and learn about the nitrification cycle. It gives you some great information on keeping your tank, and there are a couple articles about fish keeping with fish but your tank isn't cycled.

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/i-just-learned-about-cycling-but-i-already-have-fish-what-now/

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/fishin-cycling-step-dark-side/



https://www.aquariumadvice.com/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium/
 
Hey, I included my water parameters minus the ammonia levels. Ordered the API master kit and am currently waiting on it.


What are the water parameters?

It seems that your tank might not be cycled yet.

You would need to get your water checked to see if you have toxic water from ammonia, nitrite and/or nitrate.

Read up on this article below, and learn about the nitrification cycle. It gives you some great information on keeping your tank, and there are a couple articles about fish keeping with fish but your tank isn't cycled.

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/i-just-learned-about-cycling-but-i-already-have-fish-what-now/

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/fishin-cycling-step-dark-side/



https://www.aquariumadvice.com/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium/
 
I would be changing water daily until you can test for ammonia to ensure your water isnt getting to toxic levels without you knowing. Might be a good idea to keep a sample of water to test so you can compare parameters before and after your water change.

I would add that glofish are notoriously not hardy fish. They are heavily interbred, genetically modified fish and health problems are common.
 
Thanks so much the response. I did 30% water change with some more API QUICK START today.

I’ve been beating myself up over killing such a notoriously hardy fish :/ but that makes sense with the glo ones.

Thinking it may be the ammonia since it’s the only test results I don’t have. I hope my purple guy pulls through
 
You are a new fishkeeper and the majority of newcomers into the hobby will make mistakes. You are not alone.
 
Just tested the ammonia. Coming in at about 0.25ppm. Any suggestions to help get it down?

You are a new fishkeeper and the majority of newcomers into the hobby will make mistakes. You are not alone.
 
The point of asking about the water conditioner, is that some kinds of water conditioners, neutralizes the ammonia, changes it to a non toxic ammonium.

Prime, is one which will do that. Some others will as well. You treat the tank water in total volume for the dose you use. With Prime though the ammonia will show up with an API test as ammonia present which includes the ammonium. So you will see it show up still.

The information from the link will help you understand how it works if you have this type or can find it near you / order it.

There are other types of water conditioners which do something similar.
https://www.seachem.com/prime.php
 
I’m using Tetra Aquasafe Plus. I will test my tap tomorrow but I really doubt that is an issue. Known to have good water around here.

I’m pretty sure my tank just wasn’t cycled properly. Just ordered some API AmmoLock to help keep the fish okay while I deal with the ammonia issue.

You might also check your tap water for ammonia. Sometimes, sadly it comes out of the faucet that way.
 
0.25ppm ammonia is harmless to fish. Ammonia isnt as toxic as you might have been led to believe and at that level it is essentially 0.

Have you been doing the daily water changes i recommended while you werent able to test for ammonia? That will have kept the ammonia to a safe level.

Couple of points.

- Zero ammonia can sometimes look like a test reading of 0.25ppm. Test some bottled water which you know is zero ammonia and compare it with the test from your tank water. If they are the same you have zero ammonia.

- A positive test for ammonia shows you arent cycled. The 0 nitrate was a clue to that as well, as you would be seeing some nitrate in a cycled tank.

You need to be doing a fish in cycle. Ill post a procedure for doing this.
 
To cycle a tank you need to grow denitrifying bacteria to consume ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces. The bacteria needs an ammonia source to grow colonies sufficient in size to consume all the ammonia and resultant nitrite and turn it into nitrate which typically you remove through your regular water changes.

A fish in cycle uses fish waste as an ammonia source and regular water changes are undertaken to ensure that water parameters are maintained at relatively non toxic levels.

Set up your tank. Make sure everything is running smoothly. Make sure you have used a water conditioner product with any tap water you have put in your tank. Seachem Prime is a water conditioner that will also detoxify some ammonia for a day or two, so is a good choice for a water conditioner while cycling a tank with fish.

You should have a test kit. Preferably a liquid test kit. It should test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

In ideal circumstances you should be starting a fishless cycle with a low bioload (number of fish). 1 small fish per 10 gallons/40 litres is a good number of fish, but this can be tweaked a little for fish that are social and don’t do well on their own. Ideally a hardy type of fish. You may have fully stocked (or overstocked) your tank before you knew about cycling. In these circumstances, if its not possible to return fish, you will have to make the best of it.

If you haven’t already done so, add your fish. Acclimate them to the water in your tank before doing so.

Feed lightly to start with. Daily as much as is eaten in 2 minutes, or as much as is eaten in 3 minutes every 2 days. You can increase to full feedings if you are confident your parameters aren’t getting too elevated too quickly and water changes don’t become a daily thing.

Start to regularly test the water for ammonia and nitrite. At least daily. Depending on your bioload you could start to see ammonia quite quickly. Nitrite will likely take a little longer to appear.

Your target should be to keep ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm by changing water whenever your water parameters exceed this target. 0.5ppm combined is a level of waste that is sufficient for your cycle to establish but relatively safe for your fish.

If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.0ppm nitrite (0.5ppm combined) then leave things be. If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite (0.75ppm combined) then change 1/3 of the water. If you see 0.25ppm ammonia and 0.75ppm nitrite (1.0ppm combined) then change 1/2 the water. If water parameters get worse than these levels it may require multiple daily 50% water changes to maintain safe water conditions. This is more likely to happen with a fully stocked tank.

Remember to add water conditioner whenever you put tap water in the tank.

Over time the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change to maintain your ammonia + nitrite combined target will reduce. You can also start testing for nitrate and should see this rising. If you are finding the ammonia and nitrite in your tests are consistently low, and you aren’t already fully stocked, you can add a few more fish. It may take a few weeks to get to this point.

Once you add a few more fish, continue to regularly test the water and continue to change water if you exceed the 0.5ppm combined ammonia + nitrite target. With added bioload the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change may increase again until your cycle has caught up. Again once you are consistently seeing low ammonia and nitrite you can add some more fish. Rinse and repeat with testing, water changes, and adding fish when safe to do so until you are fully stocked.

You can then cut back on water changes to control nitrate only. Typically you want to keep nitrate no higher than 40ppm, but I would recommend changing some water every 2 weeks even if your water test says you don’t need to.

A fish in cycle from an empty tank to fully stocked can take several months.

A good way to speed up this process would be to put a small amount of filter media from an established filter into your filter, or get a sponge from an established filter and squeeze it into your tank water. Perhaps you have a friend who keeps fish who could let you have some? This will seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow and speed up the process.

Another option is bottled bacteria like Dr Tims One + Only or Tetra Safestart. These products wont instantly cycle a tank as they claim but in a similar manner to adding established filter media they can seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow to establish your cycle. These products are hit and miss as to whether they work at all, but are an option if established filter media isnt obtainable and may speed up the process from several months to several weeks.
 
Thanks so much for the responses. I probably should have said that my ammonia reading was fresh after a water change. The purple fish my original post was about didn’t make it :( I’ve been doing a 25% water change each day before I was able to do my first ammonia test today.

Really appreciate the cycling instructions too. This is tougher than I expected it to be, especially since I’m not always home. Doing my best though.


0.25ppm ammonia is harmless to fish. Ammonia isnt as toxic as you might have been led to believe and at that level it is essentially 0.

Have you been doing the daily water changes i recommended while you werent able to test for ammonia? That will have kept the ammonia to a safe level.

Couple of points.

- Zero ammonia can sometimes look like a test reading of 0.25ppm. Test some bottled water which you know is zero ammonia and compare it with the test from your tank water. If they are the same you have zero ammonia.

- A positive test for ammonia shows you arent cycled. The 0 nitrate was a clue to that as well, as you would be seeing some nitrate in a cycled tank.

You need to be doing a fish in cycle. Ill post a procedure for doing this.
 
Just to give you some comfort. At a typical aquarium temperature and pH ammonia can get quite elevated before you are in the immediate risk to health. Like whole numbers. So if you miss a water change it may not be all that big of an issue.

1ppm ammonia is still in the safe region at 7.6 pH and 24c.

The same cant be said for nitrite however, so once that starts showing up you need to be on your game. Also a water conditioner like prime will detoxify some ammonia for a day or so. So if you know you wont be able to do a water change for whatever reason, a double dose of prime should help see you through.
 
I already purchased API AmmoLock. Is this the same type of thing as Prime?

Just to give you some comfort. At a typical aquarium temperature and pH ammonia can get quite elevated before you are in the immediate risk to health. Like whole numbers. So if you miss a water change it may not be all that big of an issue.

1ppm ammonia is still in the safe region at 7.6 pH and 24c.

The same cant be said for nitrite however, so once that starts showing up you need to be on your game. Also a water conditioner like prime will detoxify some ammonia for a day or so. So if you know you wont be able to do a water change for whatever reason, a double dose of prime should help see you through.
 
Parameter Update

0.25ppm ammonia
0 Nitrite
maybe a tiny bit of Nitrate (close to 0ppm)

should I do another water change today?


Just tested the ammonia. Coming in at about 0.25ppm. Any suggestions to help get it down?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
No. That level is safe. Water changes to maintain ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm. You are at 0.25ppm combined so no need to change any water for now. See where you are the following day.
 
Update

Ammonia is mostly under control. Doing weekly water changes which seems to be working. Now I have a little bit of an algae problem I gotta deal with haha.

Added a beautiful female betta who is getting along well with 4 danios and a snail.

Thanks everyone for the help
 

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Did getting the water quality under control and getting the tank cycled help with your initial concern about your glo-danio?
 
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