How to cycle?

[Caliban07]

Driftwood is ok but requires soaking for a few weeks first. It will leach tannins which will discolour the water and lower ph slightly. The tannins are harmless btw but unsightly to some.

The fish like them as it's a more natural look. Will you be using tap water?

You need to dechlorinate the water before hand as you will probably already know.

It best to test your tap water with the liquid kit too so you know what your tap water ph is and that the ammonia nitrite an nitrate are from the tap.

 

[Hulka9]

Here's two good articles on fishless and fish-in

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/the-almost-complete-guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling/

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html

 

[Caliban07]

Here's two good articles on fishless and fish-in

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/the-almost-complete-guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling/

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html

Thanks hulka

 

[Rivercats]

You really need to read these articles and decide which cycling is the best for you. You need an API Master test kit regardless. You need to do ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate testing with either forms of cycling. I also suggest getting an Aqueon water changer which making weekly 50% WC's much easier (no more buckets).

Fish in cycling is much more time consuming as you need to do a 50% WC whenever ammonia or nitrites raise above .25ppm. Plus when doing a fish in cycle in a large tank you have to have quite a few fish to provide enough food for bacteria.

I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice

Tips and Tricks For Your Fastest Fishless Cycle! - Aquarium Advice

The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling - Aquarium Advice

 

[Supergummy]

I've got my own well water

 

[Rivercats]

I've got my own well water

That doesn't change anything about cycling. You do actually need to test your water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph, and possibly even phosphates. If it has a low ph then it would help to know your kh and gh as well.

 

[Supergummy]

I was talking about chlorine

 

[Supergummy]

For my situation with me going to England for a week and having a house sitter what would you do?

 

[Caliban07]

That doesn't change anything about cycling. You do actually need to test your water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph, and possibly even phosphates. If it has a low ph then it would help to know your kh and gh as well.

Might be helpful to expand on this with a bit more detail for the benefit of the op

 

[Rivercats]

For my situation with me going to England for a week and having a house sitter what would you do?

Yes the nice thing about well water is you don't have to use a dechlorinator!
You should test for the levels I suggested, especially the ph. A lot of well water is soft and if you have a ph of 6.5 or lower beneficial bacteria slows down making it very hard and very slow to cycle a tank. If ph is 6 or lower then your tank won't cycle at all since BB begins to die off at that level.

Where it me I would get some pure ammonia (see article) and dose it up to 4ppm the day before you leave or even the same day. Since the cycle would be just starting your sitter wouldn't have to do anything concerning the tank which IMO would be the best.

 

[Supergummy]

Sounds good rivercat

 

[Supergummy]

Any particular water parameter kit you suggest

 

[Supergummy]

Should I add plants and stuff before I leave? I read that it helps with biology

 

[Rivercats]

I use the API Master Test Kit.

Plants do help with cycling BUT I would not plant them until your home so you can monitor them. You can add your ammonia, keep tank lights off, and set your temp up to 84 or more. Hotter temps will allow bacteria to grow faster. Without the plants no one needs to worry about turning lights off and one. Then add plants once your home.

 

[Supergummy]

Sweet, how do I monitor hardiness, I hear that the API mast test kit can't do that, still going to buy it!

 

[Rivercats]

You need the master test kit for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and ph. I would only get an API kh and gh test kit (one test kit has both tests) if and only if your ph is around 6.6 or lower. If you ph is higher you usually have high enough gh and kh not to have to worry. I would wait on this and just monitor your ph in the tank, plus test your well water.

 

[Supergummy]

AqAdvisor says the my ideal ph is from 6 to 7.2

 

[Supergummy]

I can send you the link if you want

 

[Rivercats]

They are talking about ph and fish species. Your cycling which means you need a ph of 6.5 or higher in order for your tank to be able to cycle. Also most fish can acclimate to the ph of a tank so unless your breeding or have sensitive specialty fish ph from a fish standpoint is often a moot point. I've been in this hobby since the 70's so I'm not going to steer you wrong. Right now you need to concentrate on cycling and the proper ph to get the job done. Ph can often drop during the cycling process which is why you need to monitor it even if your well water has a higher ph.

 

[Supergummy]

Ok, as soon as I get the tank ( tommorow) I will begin!