My Dwarf Gourami just died suddenly. The tank is in trouble. What else can I do?

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God

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May 26, 2020
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Guys hi.

IMG_20200516_142720.jpg

I've just lost my Dwarf Gourami in my new cycled tank (60L / 15 gallons). It just died and it happened very very fast. I was talking to my neighbor for a few minutes, and everything was okay before it. When I came back, my fish was dead. It wasn't dying (it was not swimming upside-down or making any movements), it was just already dead.

That was a little bit "territorial fish". He was pushing some of the other fish away (but not that much). And the only fish which was sometimes pushing that Dwarf Gourami away was my Powder-Blue Dwarf Gourami (but not that much again). I mean there was no real stress-situation in my tank because of aggression.

There are however other serious problems since the last week when I noticed blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) and I ordered a med against it. It took some time until it arrived. During that time I had ammonia spike, then nitrite and nitrate spikes, as well (most probably due to cyanobacteria). I added 1.5 teaspoons of aquarium salt to my tank. And I was changing 30-35% of the water every single day, without adding salt anymore, until the med has arrived (every evening I got the spikes back again). I feed my fish once a day and not much, especially now. Today it was day-3 of treatment and I may not change the water anymore for 7 days (= 4 more days), until cyanobacteria are gone. Maybe the medication has killed some of the good bacteria too, I'm not sure, but it works against the cyanobacteria very efficiently. And I don't know if I may add some good bacteria to my filter media (this is my first question).

IMG_20200526_181854.jpg

After my fish died today, I added JBL-Detoxol to decrease some toxic spike-params in my tank.

I have two more questions. Is this JBL-Detoxol compatible with antibiotics I have added to my tank, or will it break it partially down together with other toxins (for which I added it to my tank)? If so, is it recommended to add some antibiotics today/tomorrow again to keep killing the cyanobacteria?

And my last question is: what else can I do to save my other fish from dying during this difficult process of treatment? I really have no other tank and no time anymore to cycle a new tank for my other fish. And I really don't want to lose any other fish again. I feel kinda blocked right now.

Thank you!

----
In addition, the test results at the moment when the spike began (before treatment):
Ammonia (NH4+) >0,1ppm
Nitrite (NO2-) >1ppm
Nitrate (NO3-) 60ppm
pH 7,6
 
Guys hi.

View attachment 316808

I've just lost my Dwarf Gourami in my new cycled tank (60L / 15 gallons). It just died and it happened very very fast. I was talking to my neighbor for a few minutes, and everything was okay before it. When I came back, my fish was dead. It wasn't dying (it was not swimming upside-down or making any movements), it was just already dead.

That was a little bit "territorial fish". He was pushing some of the other fish away (but not that much). And the only fish which was sometimes pushing that Dwarf Gourami away was my Powder-Blue Dwarf Gourami (but not that much again). I mean there was no real stress-situation in my tank because of aggression.

There are however other serious problems since the last week when I noticed blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) and I ordered a med against it. It took some time until it arrived. During that time I had ammonia spike, then nitrite and nitrate spikes, as well (most probably due to cyanobacteria). I added 1.5 teaspoons of aquarium salt to my tank. And I was changing 30-35% of the water every single day, without adding salt anymore, until the med has arrived (every evening I got the spikes back again). I feed my fish once a day and not much, especially now. Today it was day-3 of treatment and I may not change the water anymore for 7 days (= 4 more days), until cyanobacteria are gone. Maybe the medication has killed some of the good bacteria too, I'm not sure, but it works against the cyanobacteria very efficiently. And I don't know if I may add some good bacteria to my filter media (this is my first question).

View attachment 316807

After my fish died today, I added JBL-Detoxol to decrease some toxic spike-params in my tank.

I have two more questions. Is this JBL-Detoxol compatible with antibiotics I have added to my tank, or will it break it partially down together with other toxins (for which I added it to my tank)? If so, is it recommended to add some antibiotics today/tomorrow again to keep killing the cyanobacteria?

And my last question is: what else can I do to save my other fish from dying during this difficult process of treatment? I really have no other tank and no time anymore to cycle a new tank for my other fish. And I really don't want to lose any other fish again. I feel kinda blocked right now.

Thank you!

----
In addition, the test results at the moment when the spike began (before treatment):
Ammonia (NH4+) >0,1ppm
Nitrite (NO2-) >1ppm
Nitrate (NO3-) 60ppm
pH 7,6


DG's are quite "soft" fish. Trust me, I have had 2 pass from me since getting them 1 month ago (1 passed due to my heater failing and my tank going luke warm and the other 1 passed due to reasons unknown to myself). Both of mines, similarly to yours, showed no signs of stress however they both died over night.

Straight off, from looking at your water quality big changes are needed. Ammonia should be at zero in a fully cycled tank as is the case with Nitrites. In terms of Nitrates, you should be aiming for somewhere under 20ppm (some people even argue 10 ppm). How are you testing your water? API freshwater kit or test strips?

From my point of view, my DG's passed away with the following water perameters.

Ammonia - 0
Nitrites - 0
Nitrates - 20ppm
PH - 7.5

So I would hazard a guess and say your water was to blame. Did your ammonia/nitrites ever go to zero? This is how you know when your tank has cycled in a fishless cycle.

Sorry I can't answer your question about JBL-Detoxol as I've never had any dealings with it.
 
How are you testing your water? API freshwater kit or test strips?

I usually use testing strips only when there are no problems. When something goes wrong, like during the last two weeks, I always use test kits. I'm using a PRO Aquatest kit.

IMG_20200527_122159.jpg

I've tested the water parameters with the following results today:

Ammonia: ~0.1ppm
Nitrites: >0.6ppm
Nitrates: >50ppm
PH: >7.6

Did your ammonia/nitrites ever go to zero? This is how you know when your tank has cycled in a fishless cycle.

Sure, a week before I added my fish, ammonia/nitrites were at zero. However, I made one big mistake. I added too many fish at once: 10 baby tetra's, a couple of Dwarf Gouramis, a couple of Powder-Blue Dwarf Gouramis, two couples of honey gold gouramis, 4 Mollies, a Catfish (Corydoras), two Otocinclusses, and one Sewellia Lineolata.
 
Finally, it is becoming better.
If someone else ever has this problem, and if this information can help:

After 7-days treating with the antibiotics, I've made 50% of water-change. Every single day I was adding beneficial bacteria to my filter (during the last 4 days). I'm not sure you are allowed to do it using any bacteria of any manufacturer. I am using Seachem Stability. And apparently a daily use for such cases (or if your tank is new) is allowed.

The progress is quite positive. However, there is still work to do. The most important thing is that I didn't lose any fish anymore, fortunately. And I finally have clear water again (among others due to less antibiotic in water after 50% water-change and because I might put my carbon-sponge back again)...

My fish are playing and swimming differently. I feel now they are very relaxed... so, me too.

These are the results today:
  • Ammonia (NH4+): 0.05ppm (quasi-normal, rather a little bit worrying than dangerous)
  • Nitrite (NO2-): 0.03ppm (same for nitrate)
  • Nitrate (NO3-): 5ppm (finally)
  • pH: 7.5
 
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