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Old 01-27-2009, 03:46 PM   #1
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new cycle question

I'm just starting to setup my 75g tank. My question is when at the end of the cycle and I need to do a 50-70 % water change, can I add the conditioner to the tank (if i'm using a hose/tap to fill) , or do I need to fill individual buckets with the conditioner and manually poor in to the tank?

Thanks, and I hope I made sense.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:56 PM   #2
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I'm cycling right now too and think I can answer your questions from the advice I've received here. You're cycle will be complete when your ammonia and nitrites are consumbed by the nitrates in a short period of time 12 hours maybe, so keep dosing ammonia (if you're doing fishless) until the nitrites drop also, then do your big water change.
You can put your conditioner right in the tank and then fill with water. No buckets needed. HTH.
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:15 PM   #3
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betta4me is right on. Just add the required dose of conditioner for the amount of water you are changing. I asked the same question when I saw those python gravel vacuums.

The only other thing, if you have fish in there, and especially when you have fish - make sure the water is approx the same temp. Good luck!
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Old 02-05-2009, 07:50 PM   #4
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if it was my tank then i'd put the water in buckets and pour the conditioner into there. that way it sits by it self.
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Old 02-06-2009, 11:20 AM   #5
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You can put the conditioner right in the tank when adding the water from the hose (Python?) but I dissagree with meegosh on the amount of conditioner to add.
I suggest that if you are putting water directly into the tank from a hose you should treat the entire tank, not just the amount you are adding. ie.. 75 gallon tank doing a 20% change you should add enough conditioner to treat 75 gallons not 15.
And try to match the temp as much as possible, you can feel with your fingers if it is close.
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:58 PM   #6
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"ammonia and nitrites are consumed by the nitrates in a short period of time 12 hours maybe"........This statement is totally false.....Bacteria convert the ammonia and nitrite into nitrate...It takes a lot longer than 12 hours for this process to occur..
Research aquarium cycling so that you may get a better understanding of how it works.
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by missileman View Post
You can put the conditioner right in the tank when adding the water from the hose (Python?) but I disagree with meegosh on the amount of conditioner to add.
I suggest that if you are putting water directly into the tank from a hose you should treat the entire tank, not just the amount you are adding.
That is true for Seachem Prime.
Seachem. Prime
"Directions
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 0.8 mg/L ammonia, 1.2 mg/L chloramine, or 3.3 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose."

Also true for API (Aquarium pharmaceuticals) products
Tap Water Conditionerâ„¢ - API
I called the help desk at API (1-800-847-0659) and they also said to dose for the entire volume of the tank, for all their products, when using a Python.
Apparently it is not on the product labeling because of the Python being a competing companies product. He also said it would be very difficult to overdose their conditioning products. { I asked what if I dropped the whole open bottle in the tank and he said he would do a 50% water change but it should not affect the fish.}

For other water conditioners best to check the manufacturers directions to be sure.
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Old 02-06-2009, 06:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dano01 View Post
"ammonia and nitrites are consumed by the nitrates in a short period of time 12 hours maybe"........This statement is totally false.....Bacteria convert the ammonia and nitrite into nitrate...It takes a lot longer than 12 hours for this process to occur..
Research aquarium cycling so that you may get a better understanding of how it works.
Generally a fully cycled tank can convert 1-2 ppm (which is a large bioload) of ammonia thru the complete cycle in 24 hours or less. It's on ongoing process.
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Old 02-06-2009, 07:05 PM   #9
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What do you consider a "fully cycled" tank if it is an 'on going process"?.......Note: when a tank is started from scratch it will take considerably longer than 12 hrs. to convert the ammonia and nitrite to nitrate.

Many like myself use the term "cycle or cycled" to describe the maturing of the tanks bio system ( assorted bacteria types) to the point where it can keep up with the bio load presented to it......Depending on the health of the bio system you can only estimate the time required for the ammonia to be reduced to each of it's forms.

Just for my curiosity, where did you get the info on converting the ammonia in 24 hours?
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Old 02-07-2009, 08:08 AM   #10
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I consider a tank fully cycled when it can keep up with the bio-load. Ie... You should always see 0 or near 0 reading consistantly on amonia and nitrite tests. NOTE: a brand new tank will have 0 readings at first only because it has no bio-load yet.
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