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Old 06-18-2019, 07:21 AM   #21
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Yes that's correct. How much ammonia did you dose to get 1 ppm?
I dosed about 7 mL to get 4 ppm then after 18 hours it was down to 1 ppm. I dosed 4 mL to get it back up to 4 ppm was when I posted yesterday.

I think the ammonia I found is pretty deluded, it is taking more to dose it than more sites say it should.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:27 AM   #22
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I think it's pretty accurate. I was thinking it would take 5 mL. You should have more nitrates if it is converting that much Ammonia.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:17 PM   #23
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I think it's pretty accurate. I was thinking it would take 5 mL. You should have more nitrates if it is converting that much Ammonia.
Tonightís readings are: pH 7.4, ammonia 2 ppm (this was a little hard to tell tonight), nitrite 0 ppm, and nitrAte 5 ppm (maybe a little more, but less than 10 ppm).

I am going to dose to 4 ppm again. Do these readings sound right? Are we moving in the right direction?
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Old 06-19-2019, 01:34 AM   #24
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Ya those readings are fine for now. I'm not understanding where the ammonia is going but keep dosing to keep it between 2-4 ppm. It may take a couple weeks to really see any changes.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:44 AM   #25
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Ya those readings are fine for now. I'm not understanding where the ammonia is going but keep dosing to keep it between 2-4 ppm. It may take a couple weeks to really see any changes.
Sounds good. I didnít have time to use the kit this morning, but wanted to check so I used the Tetra easy strips. Ammonia 3 ppm, nitrite 1 ppm, and nitrAte 20 ppm. The readings are quite different than the readings from the kit last night.
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:24 PM   #26
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Did you shake/bang the heck out of the #2 nitrate test bottle?
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:36 PM   #27
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Did you shake/bang the heck out of the #2 nitrate test bottle?
Yes, I did last night. This morning I just used the strips since I was under a time crunch. Iíll check using the kit/tubes again tonight after work.
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:18 PM   #28
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Tonight’s readings done with API kit 22 hours after dosing ammonia to 4 ppm - pH 7.4, ammonia about 3 ppm (between 2 and 4 on the API kit), nitrite 0.5 ppm, and nitrAte between 5 and 10 ppm.

Should I add any ammonia tonight, or just leave it as is and check again tomorrow?
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:55 AM   #29
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Leave it. Usually when it drops to like 1 ppm I'll dose back up. Good to see things are moving along now.
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Old 06-23-2019, 03:06 AM   #30
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The death of the fish so quickly is very strange and not normal. Even with a brand new tank. When you feel ready to add fish again, just to be safe add at most 2 INEXPENSIVE and hardy fish (danios are relatively hardy and cheap). Be very careful not to overfeed your fish especially before the tank is cycled.

If you want to cycle the tank faster, you can get some live plants or driftwood (or even gravel) that were obtained from an already established aquarium.
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Old 06-26-2019, 06:34 PM   #31
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Leave it. Usually when it drops to like 1 ppm I'll dose back up. Good to see things are moving along now.
Update: Iíve been testing and keeping the ammonia up since I posted last. Yesterday I dosed to ammonia back up to about 4 ppm after not dosing the previous day since it was still above 2 ppm. Tonight (about 24 hours later) these are the readings. pH 7.2-7.4, ammonia between 1 and 2 ppm, nitrite 0 ppm, and nitrAte between 5 and 10 ppm.

Are we moving in the right direction still? Shouldnít I be seeing something on the nitrite? I did for a day or two, but not any longer. And the nitrAte hasnít been getting higher.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:23 PM   #32
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I think you should stop adding ammonia, rather, and after the ammonia drops, try to add just TWO inexpensive and hardy zebra danios and see what happens.

Let the water cycle via that method. If the fish die again overnight there's something else going on with your tank. IF they do die, check ALL the water parameters starting with Ammonia (don't forget to check the temp too).
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:28 PM   #33
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I think you should stop adding ammonia, rather, and after the ammonia drops, try to add just TWO inexpensive and hardy zebra danios and see what happens.

Let the water cycle via that method. If the fish die again overnight there's something else going on with your tank. IF they do die, check ALL the water parameters starting with Ammonia (don't forget to check the temp too).
I could probably add them safely by Friday. What should the ammonia drop to? Below 2? 0? What else could even be going on with the tank other than making sure the water is safe?
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:15 PM   #34
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Ideally, your tank should be cycling to 0 ammonia and nitrites within 24 hours before you add animals. The bacteria that turn ammonia into nitrites colonize and multiply much faster than the bacteria that turn nitrites into nitrates. Nitrite spikes can kill fish just as easily as ammonia spikes. It took me 5 months with a raw 20 gallon for it to cycle. Took 1 1/2 months with a seeded 10 gallon, using media from my established tank. In both, the ammonia levels were fine waaaay before the nitrite levels were safe.

I, personally, have never cycled with fish in the tank. I think it's cruel.

If your ammonia, nitrite and nitrates are all good and fish are still dying, you need to get your water tested more seriously. Specifically kH, gH and heavy metals. You can use bottled RO water if your tap isn't safe, but this gets expensive.

Also; is it possible that the 4-year-old is contaminating the tank...? My little sister had a betta fish and the tank went all cloudy and the poor thing went belly-up. Took 10 years for her to admit that she poured milk in there.

It's also worth examining what you're putting in that tank. I've never used fake plants or decor and don't trust most of them. I've also thoroughly rinsed and treated all wood, rock or substrate I've put in my tanks.

Some woods release toxins that will kill fish and some rocks can dramatically alter your water chemistry.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:42 PM   #35
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Ideally, your tank should be cycling to 0 ammonia and nitrites within 24 hours before you add animals. The bacteria that turn ammonia into nitrites colonize and multiply much faster than the bacteria that turn nitrites into nitrates. Nitrite spikes can kill fish just as easily as ammonia spikes. It took me 5 months with a raw 20 gallon for it to cycle. Took 1 1/2 months with a seeded 10 gallon, using media from my established tank. In both, the ammonia levels were fine waaaay before the nitrite levels were safe.

I, personally, have never cycled with fish in the tank. I think it's cruel.

If your ammonia, nitrite and nitrates are all good and fish are still dying, you need to get your water tested more seriously. Specifically kH, gH and heavy metals. You can use bottled RO water if your tap isn't safe, but this gets expensive.

Also; is it possible that the 4-year-old is contaminating the tank...? My little sister had a betta fish and the tank went all cloudy and the poor thing went belly-up. Took 10 years for her to admit that she poured milk in there.

It's also worth examining what you're putting in that tank. I've never used fake plants or decor and don't trust most of them. I've also thoroughly rinsed and treated all wood, rock or substrate I've put in my tanks.

Some woods release toxins that will kill fish and some rocks can dramatically alter your water chemistry.
Thank you for the info, but we are good now. We did not cycle with fish in the tank, the tank was empty. It took about a month to cycle using Tetra SafeStart and we successfully added fish about 3 weeks ago. They are all happy and healthy, and water perimeters have been perfect.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:57 PM   #36
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Awesome! Glad to hear that everything is going well. Be sure to post pictures and updates. We love seeing people's tanks!
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:51 AM   #37
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Something everyone has missed. You added Purigen to your filter which is great, but you also said you added stress coat as well. Any slime coat product used with Purigen is toxic and will kill your fish quickly. If you plan on staying with using Purigen, never add and stress coat or slime coat products.
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:05 AM   #38
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Something everyone has missed. You added Purigen to your filter which is great, but you also said you added stress coat as well. Any slime coat product used with Purigen is toxic and will kill your fish quickly. If you plan on staying with using Purigen, never add and stress coat or slime coat products.
Thank you, but that is not entirely accurate. Seachem has stated that you can safely use Prime and StressGuard with Purigen because they are not amine based. They have also said if you use API StressCoat, purigen can be safely added back to the filter after 24-48 hours. Finally, they have said that it can become an issue if you use API StressCoat to regenerate the Purigen and recommend to use Prime to regenerate instead.
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:15 AM   #39
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Thank you, but that is not entirely accurate. Seachem has stated that you can safely use Prime and StressGuard with Purigen because they are not amine based. They have also said if you use API StressCoat, purigen can be safely added back to the filter after 24-48 hours. Finally, they have said that it can become an issue if you use API StressCoat to regenerate the Purigen and recommend to use Prime to regenerate instead.
I remember setting up my first tank and watching way too many youtube videos. I remember hearing of slime coat and purigen being toxic so looked for this video where I heard it,
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:10 AM   #40
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What's the reason for using purigen?
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