New to plants, plus cycle question.

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LeafsFan

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
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96
Location
Ottawa, Canada
So I started up my 10g tank and wanted to try my hand at live plants.

I don't exactly know which plants I grabbed, will grab some pubs and ask for id in the plant forums but after 4 days of setup and with a filter I has running In my 40g is it possible to already have cycled? I have 0 ammonia and nitrites and 20ppm for nitrates. Just sens very fast to me.

Also they should be beginner or hardier plants how much light should I give them daily?
 
When planting a tank you buy the proper plants for the lighting you have. What lighting and bulbs are you using? This determines what plants you can grow. Also what plants did you buy or do you have pic's? Without knowing your lighting and plants it's hard to give any information. Also plants need fertilizers and some such as swords, crypts, and bulb plants need root tabs. You should try reading up on "setting up a planted tank".

And depending on the type of plants used, the amount used, and other factors cycling can go very quickly BUT before getting too excited you need to check your tap water to make sure it doesn't have any nitrates in it... lol!
 
The lighting is the basic lighting I got with the tank. It is a top fin 10. Dual bulb 25 watt I believe. The guy at Big Al's suggested a certain variety and I choose 3. I also bought a C02 enhancer and something called green leaf I believe.

Water gave me a hint of nitrate but not 20ppm. I assume the fact I had the filter running for a month on my main tank helped somewhat. I have attached pics. Hope they work. I took one of the bulbs.
 

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The fact you ran the filter on the main tank means it was already cycled before you even put it on the new one. So no wonder the readings are what they are. It is cycled and ready for a fish. Which Big Als did you go to ?
Pics are not very clear, sorry. Sort of looks like you have hygro difformis, or Water Wisteria, the last one looks a bit like a Rotala of some kind maybe. Not sure.
First one might be, darn, it won't come to my mind, but it is hard to say for sure. Look on the Planted Tank forum, they have some great ID pics.
 
Big Al's in kanata (ontario canada). Sorry it is tough to get good pics cause the lighting in my basement sucks atm. It is under renovation. I will try and get better pics tomorrow.
 
After referencing the two plants you suggested they seem to be spot on. I will get a better pic of the last plant.

Big Al's in kanata is right behind the empire theaters. What other fish stores are in ottawa? I only know of big al's.
 
I don't know. I live in Mississauga. Might want to join a good Ontario forum, we have some members from your area.

gtaaquaria.com.

See if you have a local area aquarium club. Many cities or regions have them, here we have one for Peel Region, and a Marine one too. Info can be found, but sometimes you have to dig for it.

Hygro difformis is pretty easy to grow, and has different leaves depending whether it grows submerged or emersed, out of water, that is. The emersed leaf hasn't got that ferny look, it's all one piece. A whole leaf carefully stripped off the stem will root and grow a new plant, left either floating or planted.

Rotalas are not all good low light plants, most of them need at least moderate, if not high, light. Anacharis is a great low light one though, similar looking plant.
 
You have very low light with those type of bulbs and the rotala will struggle. Another thing you need to pull up the clump of rotala and plant each stem individually with the leaves of one stem just about touching the leaves of the stems around it. I know it's a pain but you have to do this in order for water circulation and what light there is to reach the lower stems. If left as it they will begin to rot slowly.

I would also suggest getting some liquid carbon such as Excel and using it daily. It will help the plants with photosynthesis and growth so they can better utilize what little light they get.

Good plants for your lighting would be Anubia's, Java Fern's (any of the types), Bolbitus, and Crypts. All are low light tolerant.
 
So I have separated the Rotala. Should I do the same for the Wisteria as well or keep them as a group?

Also, the mystery plant is hurting presently. I was gone all weekend and the light was off. My bad. Gonna isolate it to maximize the light on it.

Going to go to the LFS tomorrow cause I need a tank thermometer should I get fertilizer as well??

Currently I have. API Leaf Zone and API CO2 Booster that I use.
 
You can split the wisteria if it's several stems or plants as they grow better that way. Since Leaf Zone is basically iron and potassium so I would pick up something like Seachems Flourish Comprehensive which has a broader scope of nutrients in it.
 
So an update.

Things don't seem to be going to hot at my first attempt.

The leafy plant I can't identify yet seems to almost have completely rotted. The others seem to be hiring a bit. One wisteria plant looks fine but the other is losing color.

Is too much light bad? I am think of getting the appropriate lights. Side from that I haven't been able to get to the lfs yet. Would the Seachems item hopefully bring things around? Out is my lighting just not cutting it
 
You don't have too much light. Those bulbs are really low light which could very well be a lot of your problem. The extra fertilizer won't hurt but if you don't have enough light for the species of plants you keep they just won't flourish.
 
Ok I need to make a serious lfs visit. I appreciate the help. I want to make sure I do this right.
 
Ok,

So I finally got to the LFS. Didn't help my 37G light went out on a power failure so I had to buy lights for both lol.

For this plant tank I purchased two Sunlight 6500K bulbs which they recommended. I did a bit of searching but was curious. It says two of these in a 10G is considered "High" light and one bulb as "Low" light. Will the two bulbs affect my plants if they are considered "low" or will it just benefit them even more? One plant under the poor lighting was actually growing and vibrant and the rest not so much.

Hope this turns everything around!
 
Your lowlight plants will have trouble growing because, they won't have enough nutrients to keep up with the amount of light they are receiving.
 
Did you buy a whole new light fixture or just new screw in bulbs for the fixture you had?
 
So much depends on what plants you have & how you feed them, as well as light levels. Low light plants can get by with little or no feeding beyond what the fish supply with their waste & low light. Tank depth plays a role in the intensity of lighting too. A ten G is very shallow compared to larger tanks, so light penetrates to the bottom much more easily and in greater amounts, so what might be medium or low light on a bigger tank may very well be high light on a tenG or smaller tank.

Plants that grow low and spread, called carpeting plants, for the most part need higher light levels and feeding to grow well, as well as frequent trimming to look nice. The deeper the tank, the more light you need to grow these plants as a carpet, which is a very popular look.

And if you started with low light, once you add a significantly higher amount of light, what you are doing, in essence, is 'driving' the plants to grow faster. But to do that they need more nutrients than fish alone can supply, so you have to fertilize them to have them grow well and look the way they do in the pictures you see online.

You can buy premixed liquid fertilizers, like Flourish Comprehensive, and many other elements, like iron or trace nutrients. Or you can buy dry ingredients, often from a hydroponic supply store and mix them together yourself. There is information on this in many places, such as Tom Barr's Barr Report. There are different strategies for dosing ferts, such as EI, [ estimative index], and others. Which one you choose to follow may depend on how much water testing you are willing to do.

You have to decide how much effort you want to put into the plants. Do you want to do a lot of testing, fertilizing, etc., or not ? Do you want to save money and mix your own ferts or buy them premixed, which is easy but costs a lot more ?

And are you going to be happy with low light plants ? There are a good number that will do well with low light. Or do you want some of the ones with vibrant red colours, for example ? Most of the vividly red plants need much higher lighting levels than their green counterparts and more feeding, though there are exceptions. Some need more iron, but not all & there are some all green ones that are heavy iron feeders and very particular about their conditions. Some plants do much better in acidic soft water, and may not grow in hard, alkaline water, or not grow well.

Root feeders, such as plants with crowns, like swords and crypts, need fert tabs in the substrate to do their best, being heavy feeders. They'll grow much faster with fert tabs than without, and look better, particularly the red sword varieties, which tend to fade away unless well fed.

Also, many plants need CO2 supplementation. Water has next to no carbon in it, but plants all need carbon. Terrestrial plants get theirs from the CO2 in air, and in nature, water plants have many ways to get what they need from their environment.

But in a tank, we have to supply the additional carbon. You can supplement using the so called liquid CO2 products, such as Seachem's Excel, but it is not as good as CO2 from the gas itself. You can supplement the gas using DIY techniques with sugar/yeast bottles, or compressed CO2 gas from a cylinder. Yeast/sugar is lower tech, but over time will eventually cost more, as you continue to buy sugar and yeast. A bottle only lasts until the alcohol level inside it rises high enough to kill the yeast, then you must have another bottle. So you are always making up bottles and changing them out, and there is some risk of yeast getting into the tank if you make a mistake and it can be bad news for the fish or other livestock.

Compressed gas is more expensive to start up, with the cost of the cylinder, the regulator, etc., but in the long term is much less expensive to keep going. For a ten G tank even a small cylinder would last a very long time before it needed to be refilled. Companies that do this frequently have rather inconvenient hours, so consider that. Cylinders also have to be recertified every ten years, to continue being filled. Don't buy cheap components, they will be nothing but trouble. Buy good quality and it will serve well for years to come. Risk is overdosing, which may suffocate livestock, but you have the regulator and needle valve, drop checker & bubble counter to control the amount. It need not run 24/7, since plants don't need it in the dark hours.

Virtually all plants will grow faster and look nicer if they are getting some type of carbon supplementation but it is not essential for a low tech, low light tank with the plants that suit this method.

Floaters, for the most part, do pretty well without much help, but do better with some feeding. Some, like duckweeds, can take over in very short order, but you can always scoop them out to sell or toss. Floaters get their CO2 from air, not water, so don't need CO2 supplementation.

Some are very attractive, like frogbit, which gets very pretty purple/brown markings in better lighting. It remains all green in lower lighting. It makes baby plants on short runners, and can grow roots up to a foot long. Great hiding places for small fish or fry, but you can trim them shorter easily. Most floating plants are very good at absorbing, called sucking up, more nitrates, so they can help keep the levels down.

Another nice one is ceratopteris, aka Indian Water Fern or Water sprite. It will grow floating or planted, and looks vastly different depending which way you choose to grow it. Planted, it has very fine, ferny leaves; floating, it has very large, thin, wavy edged leaves, with quite thick roots beneath. It grows baby plantlets in the leaf margins, so you get plenty of them coming along. Not demanding and can eventually get quite large, so you might want to just keep baby ones coming along so you can sell or toss it when it outgrows the space. I had one cover the entire top of 30G, looked great but cut off too much light to the plants below, so I sold it and kept the babies.

Always research a plant before you buy it, as many of the lfs staff are not going to be plant gurus, and may give incorrect information on culture. Some plants are going to be wrongly identified in the stores too, which is not always their fault. Some suppliers send the wrong plant or mislabel them. So it pays to have a clue what you are looking for.
 
Wow I love the info there.

Just replaced the bulbs to answer rivercats question. I was able to find some for that type of fixture at the lfs.

I am using a co2 booster. Already after a day of the new light I am seeing a nice change. The tips of each plant is now bright green and it seems to be working it's way down the plant and giving life back to them. I want to get this right so I can do it on my upcoming big tank.,

Next I need to get some basic fish in there. I know I want to add some cherry shrimp, and was thinking a couple platies to keep the waste cycle going.

Would ferts hurt the shrimp?


Thanks again guys for the help and the info.
 
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