seeding

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Yeah, that's how people who know what they're doing go about it. Some people let it drop to 0 before dosing, but anytime the ammo is at 0 there's no food for the bacteria...so your ammonia is dropping but still no nitrItes?
 
Correct, no nitrites yet.

and no, i dont even know what it is. care to provide more knownlage?
 
Carbon are those tiny black granules that are packed into the filters they sell you at the LFS. They help absorb chemicals, but mostly they're just a money making scheme by the filter makers because they have to be replaced monthly and you've gotta keep buying them. The reason I ask is because (contrary to some people's beliefs) carbon does absorb ammonia. It can give you false readings that the ammonia is dropping if you let it run through the filter enough.

Whatever you do, don't throw away the cartridges in your filter. That's the main place the bacteria is trying to grow. If you shake one and hear little things moving inside it, take out some scissors, cut a slit down the side and just shake out the carbon and put the filter back in.

That being said, there's a reason you haven't seen even a hint of nitrItes yet and we'll figure it out. If you're dropping that much ammonia, you should ABSOLUTELY have some level of nitrItes in the tank. NitrItes are the byproduct of the bacteria eating the ammonia. To put it kind of grossly... The bacteria eats the ammonia and poo's out the nitrItes. There's no way it's eating that much ammonia and not creating nitrItes. You said you are using a dechlorinator?
 
Yes, aqua safe brand.

But after that carbon talk... i have this heater and it have a bunch of black stuff in it. it was just a cheapy that came with the tank. the heater stays at a constant 78 degree's F.

Could it be carbon?
 
I would have to doubt that a heater would have carbon in it due to the fact that it has to be replaced constantly... I don't even think the corporations that make this stuff are that evil.

Do me a favor, there is a thread I'm gonna link (you might have already read it, but read it again). It was written by an actual scientist and one of the most respected members on this site named 7Enigma. It is the exact guide that myself and my buddy used when we raced to cycle our tanks. Read not only the actual article, but all the Q&A after. You'll even see my name a few times as I was asking questions.

I recommend you grab a pen and actually make a checklist of the things that need to be done and make sure you're doing them. Things like, oxygenating the tank, keeping the lights off, etc... I can check back in with you tomorrow or whenever you get done checking out the article. This thing is like the bible for fishless cycling.

If you're wondering why I'm so curious and asking so many questions... I know that I would have been lost during parts of my fishless cycle without my buddy (his member name is Deckape) and other people helping me out along the way. The way I see it, if someone is going to put in the time and effort to do a fishless cycle, they deserve all the help they need. I'll be online for a while longer so feel free to ask me anything else, otherwise I'll keep my eye on the thread and let me know when you're done with the article.

Here's the link-
Tips and tricks for your fastest fishless cycle!
 
Thanks, i really appreciate it.

ill take a look @ the link. ill post back in a couple of minutes. ive done a whole lot of research on everything you can think of but its nice to have people you can talk to and give you more advice.
 
one thing i lack is a heater that goes above 78 degree's.

Tomorrow i might be picking one up that is better quality.
 
78 is fine for your cycle...it'd be better a little higher but that's not a problem. It's only a problem for when you're done and finally get some fish that might not like it! Make sure you read all the Q&A after the article...I know it's a lot but it provides some great info.
 
This is my second time reading this artical, in fact, i just read it yesterday! but after reading over it i caught a few things i missed, the lights should be off.

Tomorrow ill try to pick up some PH down and a good heater.
 
Sounds good. Follow that article like it was the word of God and you'll be perfect. Like you said, it's really easy to miss little things that can make all the difference. The article was written years ago and he actually updates parts of it in the q&a. If it seems like you're doing everything right and the nitrItes still don't budge, don't be afraid to do a 50% water change to see if that kicks things into gear. The bacteria doesn't live in the water, it lives in the filter and on the surfaces of the tank, so a pwc won't hurt anything and might kick things into gear in case you accidentally have the ammonia too high or something. I have a feeling it's something silly we're missing...like not using both the #1 and #2 ammonia testing solutions and it's overdosed or something. Things like that happen all the time. Then again, it might just be slow for you for some reason, like I said it's not unheard of...just not in my experience.
 
im using both bottes Thankfully:lol!:

im going to try a 50% WC

Note: Ammo 4PPM Before WC
 
Ahhh!!

Thats what i get for assuming!!

i got 5 gallons out, and took my filter a rinsed it off gently, and i heard somthing moving inside of it...

Carbon!! i just took it out, and not its just the filter with no carbon. when should i see the ammonia to spike?
 
momo said:
Ahhh!!

Thats what i get for assuming!!

i got 5 gallons out, and took my filter a rinsed it off gently, and i heard somthing moving inside of it...

Carbon!! i just took it out, and not its just the filter with no carbon. when should i see the ammonia to spike?

Do you mean nitrIte spike? What removing the carbon did is remove a competing source for the ammonia, that way the nitrIfying bacteria has it all to itself. Did you do the pwc? This time try to just dose it up to ~3ppm just in case your test kit is off some how. 3ppm will still build a huge bio-filter. And you're 100% it's pure ammonia? No dyes, no surfactants? If you shake it does it bubble?
 
eco23 said:
Do you mean nitrIte spike? What removing the carbon did is remove a competing source for the ammonia, that way the nitrIfying bacteria has it all to itself. Did you do the pwc? This time try to just dose it up to ~3ppm just in case your test kit is off some how. 3ppm will still build a huge bio-filter. And you're 100% it's pure ammonia? No dyes, no surfactants? If you shake it does it bubble?

Im 100% sure its pure. And yez, nitrite spike. And you say 3 ppm so i dont over dose?
 
4ppm is overkill. There's no way that fish are gonna pit out that much waste in a day. 3ppm is perfectly acceptable. I just don't want you to put in too much because it can overwhelm the bacteria and keep it from growing. When you shake your bottle of ammonia does it bubble?
 
A little bit, it looms like just because its making air bubbles from sloshing around.
 
Sorry, I misread. I thought you said you were not 100% sure. As long as they're air bubbles and not soapy, it's good.
 
I would just make sure you're following that article and give it a few more days. That bacteria in a bottle stuff is usually considered worthless, but my buddy added the pH down and some other sort of formula. It might help and definitely won't hurt...my buddy subscribed to this thread, so im sure he'll chime in with what he used. And the seeding material will surely speed things along.
 
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