Stocking a New Tank and a Heater Question

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jk10

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Feb 21, 2015
Messages
21
Hello! I recently bought one of those 10 gallon kits from the pet store. Kind of a spur of the moment purchase, but I took awhile to plan the purchase. I bought the Top Fin kit, and everything seems to be off to a good start. I used API Perfect Start to kick things off so I could get fish going quicker.

I have had it filled and going for about a week. I bought 5 zebra danios on Wednesday of this week. They seem to be doing well and are moving all over the place, definitely fun and relaxing to watch.

I have been going back and forth on what to get next week. The Perfect Start says to wait two weeks before adding the next round of chemicals and fish.

Here is what I am thinking for the next purchase of fish, please let me know what you think. I'd like to get 2 cory catfish, either the albino or the darker one (can't remember the exact name at the moment). For the final purchase, two weeks later, I was thinking of getting 1 or 2 dwarf gourami (really like the orange and blue stripe gourami). Would these be wise purchases or should I look into something else? Really want some fish that are hardy, get along with each other, and don't live bear.

Now, the heater question. I have been using the heater that came with the kit. The directions say to put the dial in the middle for 78 degrees, then adjust + or - to change the temp. However, it is constantly at 82 in the tank no matter where I have the dial, it could be way up on the + side or way down on the - side, it's always 82 degrees. I would prefer the tank to be at 78 in case something were to change to the heater or the air temp in the summer. I purchased the Aqueon 50w heater today. Should I put it in the tank right away or wait until a water change next weekend to install the new heater?

Thank you for your advice and assistance!
 
Hi jk,
I believe the dwarf gourami should be ok but I haven't kept them before so I'll let someone else chime in on that.
I wouldn't put standard size cories in a ten gallon. If you like them, try for a smaller species like Pygmy, habrosas, or hastatus....aspidoras are good choices too. All of those catfish like to be in groups, usually I recommend six minimum of the same species.
Edit: I would just switch out the heater now. Turn off the one in use and let it cool down for a while before removing it.
 
Gardnerie killifish are cool and really cute. I bought a pair for $7 and they've been awesome! They eat fine, and they are very active. The female is kinda drab, but if she makes the male happy than I'm happy lol. They like to be in the company of others so I wouldn't recommend keeping one.

Also, most killifish have a lifespan of under one year, but this is a panchax killifish that can live for up to 5 years.
I highly recommend this fish (if you can find it, they're pretty rare).
 
Excellent suggestions! I'll look into them to see if the Petsmart has them at all. I don't want to order anything online as I live in Minnesota and they'd likely freeze if left outside while I'm at work.

Would neon tetras be an okay fish to get? I like the schooling fish a lot, but don't want to clutter the middle of the tank with too many.

Another question: I have two, 1 gallon pitchers with water for when I do a water change. I have put water conditioner in that already, would I need to add anything else to the water or will it be fine when I do a water change next weekend?
 
Firstly, 5 fish in a cycling 10 gallon tank is far far too much. I would return at least 3 of them. Its going to be very difficult to maintain safe ammonia levels with that many in there.

Next, if you dont have an api master test kit already, go out and get one. It is super important to have and is much more reliable than the paper strips. When you have the master test kit, check ammonia and nitrite daily. If either of these readings register above 0.25 ppm then do a 50% water change.

When you no longer get positive readings for ammonia or nitrite then your tank is cycled and its safe to slowly add fish.

As for fish, the Gardneri was suggested and I would have to disagree. They get a bit large for a 10g. If you want a similar fish to that then an Aphysemion Australe would be an appropriate choice. They generally cost $15 - $20 a pair and I wouldn't add them until the tank is fully cycled.

Cory cats would be fine after the tank is cycled. I wouldnt add less than 5 of them.

Only 1 gourami will fit in a tank that size. They dont get along.

Heater - that's typical with a cheaper heater. Go ahead and add the new heater when you have some time to monitor the water temperature.
 
Would the API Perfect Start not have helped with the cycling process? What I read and was told about it was that when that was added, fish could be added at the same time.

When it is time to add to the tank, wouldn't 5 cories be too much? I know that it's a rule of thumb to have 1" of fish per 1 gallon. The cories are said to grow to 3"+. From what I've seen online, it says to get 1-2 cories for a 10g tank.
 
Would the API Perfect Start not have helped with the cycling process? What I read and was told about it was that when that was added, fish could be added at the same time.

When it is time to add to the tank, wouldn't 5 cories be too much? I know that it's a rule of thumb to have 1" of fish per 1 gallon. The cories are said to grow to 3"+. From what I've seen online, it says to get 1-2 cories for a 10g tank.

There are a large number of snake oil products out there for aquariums and sadly the bacterial additives like you used are one of them. Some people report success with using them, but most of the time they do absolutely nothing and a lot of fish die because of it. Currently the only one on the market that I would personally trust (after trying a few and having them both fail) is Dr. Tims. At this point a reliable test kit such as the API freshwater master kit is going to be essential for keeping your fish alive.

Take a look at this link
I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice

The 1" of fish per gallon is a relic of the past and refuses to fade away. That rule was originally developed before filters were invented which severely limited stocking levels in a tank. Nowadays that no longer applies and the 1" of fish rule is no longer used. That being said, cory cats are a social fish and need to be kept in shoals of 5+

Use this link to help plan the stocking of your tank
AqAdvisor - Intelligent Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium Stocking Calculator and Aquarium Tank/Filter Advisor
 
There are a large number of snake oil products out there for aquariums and sadly the bacterial additives like you used are one of them. Some people report success with using them, but most of the time they do absolutely nothing and a lot of fish die because of it. Currently the only one on the market that I would personally trust (after trying a few and having them both fail) is Dr. Tims. At this point a reliable test kit such as the API freshwater master kit is going to be essential for keeping your fish alive.

Take a look at this link
I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice

The 1" of fish per gallon is a relic of the past and refuses to fade away. That rule was originally developed before filters were invented which severely limited stocking levels in a tank. Nowadays that no longer applies and the 1" of fish rule is no longer used. That being said, cory cats are a social fish and need to be kept in shoals of 5+

Use this link to help plan the stocking of your tank
AqAdvisor - Intelligent Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium Stocking Calculator and Aquarium Tank/Filter Advisor

I picked up some of the 5 in 1 test strips from API when I purchased the tank. (Just ordered the master kit a few minutes ago.) I just did one of the tests, my hardness levels were where they needed to be, the carbonate levels were a little high, the pH was extremely high, and the nitrate and nitrite levels were both in the 0-30 range according to the test strip. I know it's not the best reading, but I was more than impressed that the last two levels were where they are. I am going to stop after work tomorrow and pick up some of the API pH stuff to try and reduce that level. I also need to lower the carbonate level a bit, too.

When is the best time to add the conditioner to the water? As I said, I put some in the pitchers of water when I filled them on Monday night. Do I need to add more?

Following that question, it is strongly recommended to replace dirty water with like temperature water. Obviously, the air temp in my house is not at 80, should I put the heater in the water pitcher before adding the new water?
 
I picked up some of the 5 in 1 test strips from API when I purchased the tank. (Just ordered the master kit a few minutes ago.) I just did one of the tests, my hardness levels were where they needed to be, the carbonate levels were a little high, the pH was extremely high, and the nitrate and nitrite levels were both in the 0-30 range according to the test strip. I know it's not the best reading, but I was more than impressed that the last two levels were where they are. I am going to stop after work tomorrow and pick up some of the API pH stuff to try and reduce that level. I also need to lower the carbonate level a bit, too.

When is the best time to add the conditioner to the water? As I said, I put some in the pitchers of water when I filled them on Monday night. Do I need to add more?

Following that question, it is strongly recommended to replace dirty water with like temperature water. Obviously, the air temp in my house is not at 80, should I put the heater in the water pitcher before adding the new water?

The nitrite and nitrate readings are expected to be at 0 at this point actually. They won't show up unless you have sufficient bacteria in the tank to convert the ammonia into nitrite and then nitrate. The big problem is that you can't monitor the ammonia with those test strips and that is what is being produced at the moment. It is also the most deadly of the 3.

Unless the pH is extremely high (8.5+) I wouldn't worry about it at all. It's a nightmare to reduce pH in a tank and almost all fish will adapt to that level very nicely. You can safely ignore the carbonate. Any pH changing additive will cause the pH to yoyo significantly which puts a ton of stress on the fish. Stability is key where pH is concerned.

When I do a water change for my 10g tank I fill up a bucket with water that matches the temp (I just use touch to check the temp as it's close enough) and add dechlorinator to the bucket. I give it a quick swirl and then use a pitcher to add the water back in. You can also dose the dechlorinator directly into the tank, but when you do that dose the entire volume of the tank rather than the amount of water you're replacing.


Prime is currently the most popular water conditioner out there. It's affordable and highly concentrated. I would use that over other dechlorinators.

Lastly, don't replace your filter cartridge. They should be swished around in used tank water every month or so and that should be sufficient to keep them clean. Only change them out when they are literally falling apart.
 
Being it is a new tank, will the pH likely go down? It was very clear that it was above 8.5 when I did the test a few minutes ago.

I really appreciate the advice! It's been much appreciated as I get started in the hobby. The test kit should be here by the end of the week in time for the scheduled water change. In preparation, should I pick up chemicals or anything just in case?
 
In a cycling tank scheduled water changes mean nothing tbh. I would be changing 50% of the water daily or every other day at most until you can check the ammonia level.

The ph, its hard to tell how it's going to act. If you're on well water then the ph will likely change seasonally.

If its truly above 8.5 then I would probably dilute your tap water with some distilled. I wouldnt worry about this until you got the cycling under control though.
 
When you do these daily/every other day water changes, do you leave the fish in the tank? Are there any tricks to easing the stress on them during these significant changes?
 
Great advice Mebbid. Get the liquid test Kit as soon as possible and keep track of your readings. Don't worry, I didn't know about the cycling process in the beginning either. Wait till its cycled toads more fish and they will thank you for it.

Keep us posted how it's coming along :)


Caleb

Sent via TARDIS
 
I really appreciate all the advice. The Petsmart here in town doesn't have the master test kit and the nearest pet store is around an hour away. Ordered it online and it should be here by Thursday or Friday. Plan is to do a water change tomorrow evening. Hoping I don't mess it up too much and kill the fish during the water change.

Is it wise to keep them in the tank during a 50% water change?
Should I clean any of the plants (fake) or decor at this time?
Should I clean the gravel at this time or wait until the weekend?
 
Another question incoming.

I have been monitoring the zebra danios that I currently have in the tank. They have been super peaceful and seem to all get along really well. I just noticed in the last 20 minutes that two of them will chase each other in circles for many seconds. The one being chased will get away only to have the other follow it. Is this typical schooling behavior or something to worry about? I'll see them swimming peacefully for a bit then give chase. Often, they end up hitting the side of the tank and seem disoriented.

Any suggestions? Starting to feel really guilty about not cycling the tank and fearing I may have caused the fish to become too stressed already.
 
Another question incoming.

I have been monitoring the zebra danios that I currently have in the tank. They have been super peaceful and seem to all get along really well. I just noticed in the last 20 minutes that two of them will chase each other in circles for many seconds. The one being chased will get away only to have the other follow it. Is this typical schooling behavior or something to worry about? I'll see them swimming peacefully for a bit then give chase. Often, they end up hitting the side of the tank and seem disoriented.

Any suggestions? Starting to feel really guilty about not cycling the tank and fearing I may have caused the fish to become too stressed already.


Fish in cycling definitely causes stress because of the fluctuations in water parameters. It could be a high male to female ratio as far as them chasing one around.


Caleb

Sent via TARDIS
 
I really appreciate all the advice. The Petsmart here in town doesn't have the master test kit and the nearest pet store is around an hour away. Ordered it online and it should be here by Thursday or Friday. Plan is to do a water change tomorrow evening. Hoping I don't mess it up too much and kill the fish during the water change.

Is it wise to keep them in the tank during a 50% water change?
Should I clean any of the plants (fake) or decor at this time?
Should I clean the gravel at this time or wait until the weekend?


I always do water changes with my fish in the tank. For smaller tanks like my 10g I'm more gentle since there is less room.

I only take out my decor for gravel vacuums to make it easier.


Caleb

Sent via TARDIS
 
Another question incoming.

I have been monitoring the zebra danios that I currently have in the tank. They have been super peaceful and seem to all get along really well. I just noticed in the last 20 minutes that two of them will chase each other in circles for many seconds. The one being chased will get away only to have the other follow it. Is this typical schooling behavior or something to worry about? I'll see them swimming peacefully for a bit then give chase. Often, they end up hitting the side of the tank and seem disoriented.

Any suggestions? Starting to feel really guilty about not cycling the tank and fearing I may have caused the fish to become too stressed already.

I have seen this type of behavior, this sounds like mating behavior, I personally would not be concerned. This is just speaking from my experience though.

Think, in the wild would this happen?
Yes, but..the fish being chased would have more space to escape. I've never encountered issues from zealous danios attempting to mate, however this was in a carefully maintained and established aquarium with hiding spaces and line of sight disruptions.

The chasing definitely adds stress to the fish since it cannot escape for a break from it. A stressed fish may not exhibit physical signs or develop disease in an established and relatively disease free aquarium. This chasing stress paired with the stress of ammonia and nitrite could lead to further issues, but might only result in a few baby danios in the future. See http://www.aquariumadvice.com/fish-disease-index-for-diagnosis-and-treatment/

Tips you might try:
Try adding more decor that create breaks of line of sight to help the fish take a breather. Add more female danios. A larger aquarium footprint (length x width) could help.
 
I really appreciate all the advice. The Petsmart here in town doesn't have the master test kit and the nearest pet store is around an hour away. Ordered it online and it should be here by Thursday or Friday. Plan is to do a water change tomorrow evening. Hoping I don't mess it up too much and kill the fish during the water change.

Is it wise to keep them in the tank during a 50% water change?
Should I clean any of the plants (fake) or decor at this time?
Should I clean the gravel at this time or wait until the weekend?

Yes, leave them in the tank. It's highly stressful to chase them down with a net and it's also damaging to their slime coat. They will do just fine with a 50% water change as it's really not that big of a change. In fact, that's about the standard amount that aquarists change on a regular basis.

Another question incoming.

I have been monitoring the zebra danios that I currently have in the tank. They have been super peaceful and seem to all get along really well. I just noticed in the last 20 minutes that two of them will chase each other in circles for many seconds. The one being chased will get away only to have the other follow it. Is this typical schooling behavior or something to worry about? I'll see them swimming peacefully for a bit then give chase. Often, they end up hitting the side of the tank and seem disoriented.

Any suggestions? Starting to feel really guilty about not cycling the tank and fearing I may have caused the fish to become too stressed already.

Add more decor to the tank. Sadly, this is something that can happen with fish like danios. They are hyperactive fish and can be aggressive towards each other. When there aren't enough of them it's hard for a fish to get lost in the crowd to get a break from the one chasing it.

You could try returning the one that's a problem. It would help cut down on your bio load making cycling easier.

Fish in cycling definitely causes stress because of the fluctuations in water parameters. It could be a high male to female ratio as far as them chasing one around.


Caleb

Sent via TARDIS

Fish in cycling is really only stressful if you allow the ammonia or nitrite to climb too high. Otherwise it's perfectly fine for the fish.
 
Yes, leave them in the tank. It's highly stressful to chase them down with a net and it's also damaging to their slime coat. They will do just fine with a 50% water change as it's really not that big of a change. In fact, that's about the standard amount that aquarists change on a regular basis.







Add more decor to the tank. Sadly, this is something that can happen with fish like danios. They are hyperactive fish and can be aggressive towards each other. When there aren't enough of them it's hard for a fish to get lost in the crowd to get a break from the one chasing it.



You could try returning the one that's a problem. It would help cut down on your bio load making cycling easier.







Fish in cycling is really only stressful if you allow the ammonia or nitrite to climb too high. Otherwise it's perfectly fine for the fish.


I stand corrected thanks.


Caleb

Sent via TARDIS
 
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