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Old 07-30-2011, 12:50 PM   #1281
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:29 AM   #1282
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so I planned on getting fish today. tested water . ammonia 0. nitrite.0 nitrate 40 0r 80ppm. Never seen it that high before. should i do a big water change and can i still get a few fishies?
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:33 AM   #1283
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so I planned on getting fish today. tested water . ammonia 0. nitrite.0 nitrate 40 0r 80ppm. Never seen it that high before. should i do a big water change and can i still get a few fishies?
The numbers seem to indicate you're cycled When was the last time you added ammonia?
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:57 AM   #1284
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The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling-eco23

I just joined Aquarium Advice a couple of days ago and I am still just getting to know how to navigate the forum. I came across this post and would like to commend eco23 for caring enough about life to take the time to post this information. (Even if it was to save carpal tunnel). I just purchased a 100g tank for two baby koi. They are currently set up in a 20g tank and so I do have time to give them this excellent home to grow in. I am sure through my search, I will find all kinds of advice on how to make my baby koi happy koi. I love this site because already, I have found better advice than received from a pet store associate! LOL Anyway, any advice in this forum is welcome as I am completely new at this and I really do not want to sacrifice ANY fish due to my learning curve. I will never turn down advice or help. Thanks again for your posting.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:43 AM   #1285
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I'm glad you enjoyed it. Feel free to ask any questions you come across during the process. The only requirement of using the guide is that pics must be posted of your fish once they're in the new tank
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:21 PM   #1286
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SO- my tank newly cycled ..got a few fishies... nitrate still pretty high after 2 water changes..any advice?
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:25 PM   #1287
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SO- my tank newly cycled ..got a few fishies... nitrate still pretty high after 2 water changes..any advice?
How large were your water change? The primary way nitrates are reduced is through water changes. If they were 80, you'd need to do almost a full tank water change to get them down. With fish in there I wouldn't let them get higher than 20 (40 max). Larger water changes should get them down.
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:25 PM   #1288
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SO- my tank newly cycled ..got a few fishies... nitrate still pretty high after 2 water changes..any advice?
More water changes . That's the only way they're going to come down unless you have a heavily planted tank. It might also be worth testing your tap water and making sure that's not a source of nitrAtes.

I didn't follow your cycle from the beginning, and I know a couple things were funny with it...so make sure you test your ammonia and nitrIte every day for a while to make sure everything stays stable.

Enjoy your fish!
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:27 PM   #1289
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ive done 2 water changes of more then 50%. paramaters are perfect otherwise!
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:29 PM   #1290
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ive done 2 water changes of more then 50%. paramaters are perfect otherwise!
Hm. As Eco said, have you tested your tap water for nitrates? How high are they now after the pwc? What kind of fish did you get? I don't know if a large bioload would cause nitrates to rise quickly....?
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:29 PM   #1291
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How high are the nitrAtes right now? Personally I'd keep carrying buckets until they are near the 20 mark.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:10 PM   #1292
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I have had my 20 long running for almost 2 weeks now and the ammonia level is still at 4ppm. No change at all. I have even added TopFin Bacteria Supplement to the water....NOTHING!!!! How do I get this thing started???? Do I need to do a pwc? Or do I just need to grow a beard and wait til Xmas? LOL!!!
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:44 PM   #1293
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2 weeks really isn't panic mode yet...but we'd definitely like to see movement by now.

The best thing to do is go back through the checklist and make sure nothing basic is missing. Make sure you remembered the dechlorinator and that the ammonia is absolutely pure and doesn't have any additives listed in tiny print.

Finding some seeded media from a friend or lfs is the guaranteed way to get things going. I'd avoid the cycling products...there's only one or two that I even remotely have any faith in (yours is not one of them)...but I still wouldn't let them near my tanks. There's the potential for negative consequences from using them...and most likely they will only effect your wallet anyway.

As long as you've got everything in line...it might unfortunately just be a bit more patience that's needed . Makes sure you go through everything and make sure we're not missing anything.

Keep us posted
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:33 AM   #1294
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ok I will check things again. I used Ace Hardware ammonia, I have read that it is one of the best. I did add the dechlorinator when I filled the tank too. Lights are on 24/7. 9 out of 10 articles I have read say not to add substrate and plants until it has ran for about 2 weeks. I will be doing that in the next couple of days. Some people say to add the substrate and plants right away. I think that is personal preference, not sure about that yet. Temp is at 80f as well. As always I am open to suggestions. If I need to wait... not a problem. What about a pwc? I have read that some people do that during the cycling period. About 30% is what I am reading. Others say not until it has cycled. Or is this a crap shoot too. Thanks for the advice. I will keep you posted.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:41 AM   #1295
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ok I will check things again. I used Ace Hardware ammonia, I have read that it is one of the best. I did add the dechlorinator when I filled the tank too. Lights are on 24/7. 9 oout of 10 articles I have read say not to add substrate and plants until it has ran for about 2 weeks. I will be doing that in the next couple of days. Some people say to add the substrate and plants right away. I think that is personal preference, not sure about that yet. Temp is at 80f as well. As always I am open to suggestions. If I need to wait... not a problem. What about a pwc? I have read that some people do that during the cycling period. About 30% is what I am reading. Others say not until it has cycled. Or is this a crap shoot too. Thanks for the advice. I will keep you posted.
The substrate and plants shouldn't make any measurable difference. Honestly I can't think of a way that they would be bad to have in the tank...in fact, it'd just give more area for colonization, and the plants may bring in some beneficial bacteria. News to me, lol.

You said lights are ON 24/7? First, you're gonna end up with an algae farm because it loves the ammonia rich water, and you don't even have plants to compete with it. I've also seen some articles that lights being on in the early stages of cycling can be detrimental to the nitrifying bacteria as it first is developing. I can't say with certainty...but I've seen some compelling arguments about it.

Pwc's don't hurt...but I wouldn't view it as necessary in your case. The reason they're recommended are to restore nutrients and buffers to the water that the beneficial bacteria consume during colonization...since you don't have conversion...those things aren't being used up yet.

You're definitely using a good ammo, temp is good, and everything seems normal (albeit a bit slower than desired). I assume you're using an API test kit?

As long as nothing is missing it might just be a waiting game. Adding a pinch of ground up fish food can add some phosphates and nutrients to feed the little buggers, and increasing the dissolved oxygen content with an air stone or lowering the water level so the filter breaks the water surface are some things that can help get things going.
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:50 AM   #1296
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25 years ago, when I had tanks originally, one just added water, gravel plants removed the chlorine and adjusted the temp and threw in the fish. How things have changed...lol Yes using the API Master Test Kit. It seems that everyone has an opinion..lol On another fish forum site I asked about substrate. I thought WW3 was going to break out. So All I have to go by is what I read and advice I get from other people. If I need to turn off the lights that is ok with me too. I also found out that Petsmart...personal just AIN'T that smart..lol One guy there said that the water in this area was so screwed up that I should consider buying a dog. I said "why, so I can kill him too!!??" I won't be going back there. I am willing to accept anyone's advice and just figure out what is going to work for me. Water level is about 6 inches from the top of the tank. Today I am going to add the substrate and go looking for plants. But not at Pet Not So Smart. I am up to trying anything to get things going, including waiting til XMAS!!! lol Thanks for all of the help, I really appreciate it !!!! Have a great day!!!
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:01 AM   #1297
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One more thing...What about the GH/KH, Phosphates, Copper and PH testing? What should be done here? My PH is at 8.2 Should I be testing for all above mentioned? Or is that a "not to worry about" type of thing? Thanks again.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:38 AM   #1298
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I am thinking of rinsing my goldfish filter foam into my new cichlid aquarium to seed it. Should I do this or will it cause problems?
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:56 AM   #1299
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I am thinking of rinsing my goldfish filter foam into my new cichlid aquarium to seed it. Should I do this or will it cause problems?
That would help tremendously. You can take some of your old gravel, put it in your tank or hang it in there in a new stocking or mesh bag. It needs to be new and unwashed though. Soap could cause issues.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:58 AM   #1300
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One more thing...What about the GH/KH, Phosphates, Copper and PH testing? What should be done here? My PH is at 8.2 Should I be testing for all above mentioned? Or is that a "not to worry about" type of thing? Thanks again.
I wouldn't be concerned at all unless something is at an extreme range. A pH of 8.2 is fine, I'd just give your fish a nice, slow acclimation when you introduce them. I prefer drip acclimating personally (there's some good videos on YouTube about it).

Phosphates are from what I understand only a concern in SW setups and copper I've never heard mentioned in a freshwater setup.

The GH and KH are important if they're on the low side of the scale. Water low in alkalinity has the potential to cause pH fluctuations which can be a problem...but judging by your pH level there's no issue there .
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