The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling

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Hi Everyone.. I need help!

My tank (77g) has been cycling for about 2.5 weeks now. It was going great but now..something is up. I'm using the API freshwater master test kit for all my tests.

Started out dosing ammo up to 4ppm, and waited until it started dropping (not long.. maybe 3 days?) It's now at the point where it will go from ~4ppm to 0.25-0 in less than a day (16 hours I'd guess). Nitrites are also off the chart as well, and have been for about a week and a half I'd guess... Here's where I think I am having difficulty. My nitrates are only reading about 20 ppm.. no where near off the chart, and I have been getting this reading consistently for many days now (about a week) with no change. I have put in crushed up fish food (not a lot, maybe 3 flakes total) to provide phosphate. I don't think my cycle is stalled, as the ammonia levels drop to 0 every day, yet no rise in nitrates? Any ideas?
 
I agree the pH is most likely the culprit here...especially if you were progressing so fast and suddenly hit a stall. A large water change should get things moving again until you're able to test it. The bacteria uses alkalinity much in the same way that it feeds on ammonia to grow. Once the alkalinity is gone...the pH plummets and the cycle stalls. Let us know how it's going :)

So after both your replies, my tiredness got erased by impatience and I re-did the Nitrate tests with added banging, and then did my pH :p

Nitrates came back same as earlier, around 20ppm (maybe lower, it was hard to tell under artificial light). Either way, around the same base ppm that my tap water is, definitely no higher. So it's possible that the test I did on day 4 (that came back 40ppm) was the one that was wrong, I've only used this lot a few times so they might have been improperly mixed/not shaken enough before now.

However, the pH came back 7.6 on the normal test, after testing for high range pH it came back 8.2. My normal tap water pH is around 7.4. Forgive my ignorance, but will a high pH damage the bacteria as well? Or is that totally normal for a cycling tank?
 
Hi Elenable, I just read your original post on the previous page and it seems like we have very similar problems and stats (my pH is about 7.4-7.6, tho it tested above 8 a week ago). So if anyone has any advice, here's the chance to kill 2 birds with 1 stone!
 
Elenable said:
So after both your replies, my tiredness got erased by impatience and I re-did the Nitrate tests with added banging, and then did my pH :p

Nitrates came back same as earlier, around 20ppm (maybe lower, it was hard to tell under artificial light). Either way, around the same base ppm that my tap water is, definitely no higher. So it's possible that the test I did on day 4 (that came back 40ppm) was the one that was wrong, I've only used this lot a few times so they might have been improperly mixed/not shaken enough before now.

However, the pH came back 7.6 on the normal test, after testing for high range pH it came back 8.2. My normal tap water pH is around 7.4. Forgive my ignorance, but will a high pH damage the bacteria as well? Or is that totally normal for a cycling tank?

A high pH won't do any harm unless it is at an extreme value...which you're nowhere close to. I agree it's likely just a bad nitrAte test. Honestly that API no3 test is a pain in the butt. The good news is that the nitrAte level really isn't something worth worrying about. As long as ammonia is dropping and nitrIte is climbing (and eventually dropping)...you're on the right track. So you can just kinda forget the no3 test exists for now :)
 
pearls-before-swine said:
Hi Elenable, I just read your original post on the previous page and it seems like we have very similar problems and stats (my pH is about 7.4-7.6, tho it tested above 8 a week ago). So if anyone has any advice, here's the chance to kill 2 birds with 1 stone!

Yep, I agree it's the same deal. Just ignore the no3 test as long as everything else is moving. The good news is that once you're cycled none of these tests matter as long as you have a healthy pwc schedule and nothing seems to be going wrong (fish death, etc...). To be honest...I'm not even sure where my test kit is, haha. (not that I'm recommending not testing your tanks :) ).
 
As it is, I am dosing ammo up to 4ppm every day, nitrites are not moving one bit... should I cut down on the ammo to help nitrites go down? Or keep adding ammo, but monitor nitrite levels instead of using the nitrate test? (this is my first time cycling a tank ever so I'm a total newb, sorry!)
 
Thank you guys! I had no idea how unreliable the no3 tests were. I'll just go ahead and ignore any abnormal results from now on, keep an eye on the nitrites for any evidence of them dropping, and proceed as I think necessary with a 50% water change if the test results start to show nitrates off the charts or absolutely no change in weeks. Now that I know there's no way of nitrates randomly decreasing, I can wait in peace ;)

Will update you when I'm cycled, wahoo! And good luck Pearls, sounds like you're almost there...just a little more patience :)
 
As it is, I am dosing ammo up to 4ppm every day, nitrites are not moving one bit... should I cut down on the ammo to help nitrites go down? Or keep adding ammo, but monitor nitrite levels instead of using the nitrate test? (this is my first time cycling a tank ever so I'm a total newb, sorry!)

You're only at 2 1/2 weeks...you're right on track. If anything, you're ahead of schedule. Just keep with the plan. :)
 
So my cycle is going kind of weird. I have been cycling for about 2.5 weeks and currently my ammo has hovered at 0.25 ammo, 0 nitrites all of a sudden. It just happened to go from sky high to 0 after a pwc. Nitrates are off the chart still. What is the deal? Is this normal? Thanks for the advice?
 
Rhino said:
So my cycle is going kind of weird. I have been cycling for about 2.5 weeks and currently my ammo has hovered at 0.25 ammo, 0 nitrites all of a sudden. It just happened to go from sky high to 0 after a pwc. Nitrates are off the chart still. What is the deal? Is this normal? Thanks for the advice?

Dose it up to 4ppm and let us know this time tomorrow night what the levels are. It might be good news :)
 
So it has been 4 weeks of my fish-in cycle. (I made the mistake of not learning about fish-less cycling when I started.)

I can't seem to get my Nitrite down to 0 and get it all cycled.

Today my results are:

Temperature: 75-80 degrees
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 2.0
Nitrate: 20
KH: 161.1
GH: 196.9

These results have been consistent and the tests are done around the same time.

I have a 40 gallon with 5 Zebra Danios and 5 Kuhli Loaches. I've been doing 50% pwc every 3 days to keep levels low. But it looks like I may need to do more pwc. I'm afraid I do anymore I can slow down the cycling process. I have 2 filters running (AquaClear 70 and Pengion 330.) PWC are dosed with Prime.

Along with the fishes I have live plants: Anubias, Ludwigia, and Cryptocorynes under a 78 watt T5HO. The plants are doing great. I'm using API CO2 and API Leave Zone weekly for the plants. I also have Seachem Tabs.

I got through the Ammonia phase pretty fast, but I've been in the Nitrite phase for 3 weeks.

Am I doing anything wrong?
 
Ok here are the stats tonight. Last night I dosed ammo back up to 4ppm. Tonight I have .5 ppm ammo, o nitrites, and nitrates are off the charts once again. I think I know what the problem is........I think my ph has crashed. Mine normally stay in the 7.2 range (blue in the test tube) and this tank is low ( very pale yellow......almost pastel yellow). Thoughts??? If it is just a ph crash should I just do a massive water change?
 
Rhino said:
Ok here are the stats tonight. Last night I dosed ammo back up to 4ppm. Tonight I have .5 ppm ammo, o nitrites, and nitrates are off the charts once again. I think I know what the problem is........I think my ph has crashed. Mine normally stay in the 7.2 range (blue in the test tube) and this tank is low ( very pale yellow......almost pastel yellow). Thoughts??? If it is just a ph crash should I just do a massive water change?

I have the same situation as Rhino. My ammonia drops from 4ppm to 0.25 or 0.5 in 24 hrs and my nitrites are now from 5ppm to 0.5ppm. My pH has remained stable at 6.8 (pale blue) for almost a week since i fashioned a home-made holder for the coral that I placed in front of my filter outlet. Didn't want to place a bag on the gravel, looked so out of place. Am I still on track?
 
Manix said:
So it has been 4 weeks of my fish-in cycle. (I made the mistake of not learning about fish-less cycling when I started.)

I can't seem to get my Nitrite down to 0 and get it all cycled.

Today my results are:

PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 2.0
Nitrate: 20
KH: 161.1
GH: 196.9

These results have been consistent and the tests are done around the same time.

I have a 40 gallon with 5 Zebra Danios and 5 Kuhli Loaches. I've been doing 50% pwc every 3 days to keep levels low. But it looks like I may need to do more pwc. I'm afraid I do anymore I can slow down the cycling process. I have 2 filters running (AquaClear 70 and Pengion 330.) PWC are dosed with Prime.

Along with the fishes I have live plants: Anubias, Ludwigia, and Cryptocorynes under a 78 watt T5HO. The plants are doing great. I'm using API CO2 and API Leave Zone weekly for the plants. I also have Seachem Tabs.

I got through the Ammonia phase pretty fast, but I've been in the Nitrite phase for 3 weeks.

Am I doing anything wrong?

Water changes will NOT slow down or interrupt your cycle. It's vital to do them as large and as often as needed to keep the toxins as low as possible. The goal should be to keep the ammonia and nitrIte at or below .25 at all times.

Again, there is no such thing as too many water changes as long as you are temperature matching and dechlorinating the water.

Let your test kit dictate how often to do a pwc and how large they should be. Don't base it on a clock. A 50% pwc will reduce toxins by half, a 25% by a quarter, etc... Remember the goal is .25ppm, so if they're sitting at 2ppm, a 50% water change will only bring them down to 1ppm which is still extremely toxic. Don't be afraid to do back-to-back 75% pwc's if that is what it takes to keep your levels below .25ppm.

Prime will be a big help because it helps to neutralize the toxins between water changes. This is also one of the few times where aquarium salt can be useful. Adding it will help prevent nitrIte uptake and hopefully prevent no2 poisoning.

Just stay committed, keep the fresh water and Prime going into the tank and you can get your fish through it :)

Here the guide to follow-
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...g-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html
 
Rhino said:
Ok here are the stats tonight. Last night I dosed ammo back up to 4ppm. Tonight I have .5 ppm ammo, o nitrites, and nitrates are off the charts once again. I think I know what the problem is........I think my ph has crashed. Mine normally stay in the 7.2 range (blue in the test tube) and this tank is low ( very pale yellow......almost pastel yellow). Thoughts??? If it is just a ph crash should I just do a massive water change?

Yep, massive pwc to restore it to the natural value of your tap water, dose the ammo back up and see what happens.

I think your cycle is done, but the pH crash stunned the bacteria and it might take a day or two to fully recover. Kind of a good news / bad news situation :)
 
Last edited:
Clausura said:
I have the same situation as Rhino. My ammonia drops from 4ppm to 0.25 or 0.5 in 24 hrs and my nitrites are now from 5ppm to 0.5ppm. My pH has remained stable at 6.8 (pale blue) for almost a week since i fashioned a home-made holder for the coral that I placed in front of my filter outlet. Didn't want to place a bag on the gravel, looked so out of place. Am I still on track?

Sounds like you are hours or a couple days away from being cycled. pH stability is a beautiful thing :).
 
Water changes will NOT slow down or interrupt your cycle. It's vital to do them as large and as often as needed to keep the toxins as low as possible. The goal should be to keep the ammonia and nitrIte at or below .25 at all times.

Again, there is no such thing as too many water changes as long as you are temperature matching and dechlorinating the water.

Let your test kit dictate how often to do a pwc and how large they should be. Don't base it on a clock. A 50% pwc will reduce toxins by half, a 25% by a quarter, etc... Remember the goal is .25ppm, so if they're sitting at 2ppm, a 50% water change will only bring them down to 1ppm which is still extremely toxic. Don't be afraid to do back-to-back 75% pwc's if that is what it takes to keep your levels below .25ppm.

Prime will be a big help because it helps to neutralize the toxins between water changes. This is also one of the few times where aquarium salt can be useful. Adding it will help prevent nitrIte uptake and hopefully prevent no2 poisoning.

Just stay committed, keep the fresh water and Prime going into the tank and you can get your fish through it :)

Here the guide to follow-
I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!


Thanks. I'll try to hang in there but this is getting frustrating.

On the Penguin 330 there are two activated carbon cartridges. Will that slow down the cycling process and will it be beneficial besides getting rid of odors? If it doesn't do much I want to take it out and place more rings in there for bacteria to grow on.
 
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