What am I doing wrong? :(

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mrjspeed

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Mar 28, 2013
Messages
11
First I want to apologize for this long post. I have been lurking around these forums, reading, gathering information, and dealing with my problems for about 6 months now. I have been having issues with my fish tank since the beginning. I feel like I am missing something, so I will just tell my story and hopefully can get some advice.

Current Tank Specs:
Aquatech 29gallon (from Walmart), freshwater
Outside hung canister filter/pump – holds filter with carbon. Also has separate bio-filter
150W heater, temps at ~79F
55lbs of white aggregate
Artificially planted/decorated
Located in San Antonio, TX in a living room – never gets any direct sunlight
(picture from late January)
IMG_8357.jpg

1/18/2013 – I have the tank setup, filled with water, pump running. I was given advice from a friend to use filtered water. I fill the entire tank with filtered water I get from WaterMill Express. I believe it is called RO Water. I use the heater that came with the tank, a 150W heater that has no adjustment settings. I go to my LFS and ask for advice on getting started for cycling and then adding fish. He convinces me to use API quick start product for 24 hours, and then I can add fish. At this time I have an air pump for aeration.

1/19/2013 – I added the quick start yesterday morning and today I come in the evening to get some fish. I know nothing of fish and just asked for what he recommended. He sold me 6 small fish called “barbs.” 3 brown ones and 3 red ones. Per his instructions, I place the bags in the tank to adjust for temperature. I use a shot glass to add tank water every 15 minutes for an hour and a half to get the fish used to the new water. I release them into the tank. 24 hours later, 2 of the red ones are dead. I remove all the fish and take the live ones back to the shop for a refund. I ask what might be the cause and tell him my story so far. LFS thinks either the difference in PH or hardness (I can’t remember which he said) between my RO water and “San Antonio” water. Per instructions I perform a 50% water change and put in tap water treated with API Stress coat to remove chlorine. Also, my thermometer stickers measured tank temp at 75F. LFS recommended to get a new heater to maintain a temp of 78F. I replaced the heater with one that has a temperature control. I also removed the air pump because LFS told me it wasn’t needed, that my bio filter should do fine and that most fish preferred a calm environment.

1/21/2013 – I return to LFS for a second try. Now my tank is cloudy and cycling, I believe. LFS says it should be fine to add fish. I buy 2 red wags and 2 yellow tailed guppies. After about 2 weeks the cloudiness is gone. I test for Ammonia and regularly get below 0.25PPM. I feel happy and eventually go back for more fish. I do ~17% (5 gallon) water changes every week. ½ RO water and ½ tap water. I treat for chlorine with API Stress into the 5 gallon bucket with a 5 gallon dose, even though half is RO.

2/20/2013 – I return to LFS to get more fish and double my stock from 4 to 8. I get 1 red wag to add to the school, and 3 glowlight tetras. Here is where some problems start. 48 hours after adding fish, a glowlight tetra dies – unknown causes. The next day, one of the older red wags die, unknown causes. A week later the other 2 glowlight tetras die. I thought they were developing a while film on them, but it turned out that the remaining 2 red wags were in business together eating their scales off them. I didn’t find this out until the day before the last of them died – I saw the red wags nipping away at one as it was just swimming (alive) in place. It was very disturbing. I slapped the glass in anger to disperse them and went to bed. The next morning a corpse was stuck on the pump tube picked clean and still being picked by the red wags. I would tell my LFS about this later, he told me that this shouldn’t happen.

3/5/2013 – By now we are down to a stock of 4. I have removed all the corpses. The remaining 4 fish seem very happy and active. However, I test for ammonia and get results of 2 or 3ppm. I reduce feedings to once a day; continue with ~17% WC weekly. Ammonia continues to rise. My tank is crystal clear, no food or poop anywhere to be seen. I add in some API AMMOLOCK every few days because I fear for the lives of the fish. I do another WC and go out of town for 3 days. I come back, feed the fish and test the water to find it at 8PPM! I do a 33% WC twice over the next 4 days. Now at 4PPM. I do another 2 33% changes in a 48 hour period. Down to 2PPM. A week later ammonia is gone, nitrates and nitrites are 0, 17% WC. A week later same, except nitrates bump to 5ppm, 17% WC. Another week goes by and nitrates are 15ppm, 33% WC. At this point I figure I have a healthy tank and just need to do water changes to keep nitrates at a healthy level. Fish are super happy, always active, eating very well. In the midst of the Ammonia crisis I was also testing my water sources. Both RO and tap water have 0 ammonia. RO water has a pH of 6, tap water has pH of 7.6, and tank has pH of 7.8.

4/06/2013 – I feel good, I feel like I have a robust tank. I go to LFS for more fish. I get 1 red wag and 1 yellow tailed guppy to add to schools, as well as 2 ornate candy tetra. New red wag dies after 72 hours, unknown cause. 5th day I see that my tank is getting starting to get cloudy, so I suspect some cycling is going on. The yellow guppies are acting strange – swimming hard into a top corner of the tank like they are trying to get away from something. Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 15ppm, pH 8.1.
4/12/2013 – My prized yellow tailed guppy dies. I am sad because I liked him/her. It danced at times, fluttering its large yellow tail fin at the other guppies. It was a nice specimen. I notice ICK on the candy tetra. I do a 17% WC, raise temp to 82F, and open top flap to allow more surface air circulation. I head to LFS for something to treat it. They sell me Coppersafe along with a copper test kit. I treat for 20gallons. 24 hours later, I made sure cooper levels were at 2ppm or lower (they were 1.5ppm). By now my filter is 3 weeks old and even though directions say that the carbon shouldn’t be effective, I went ahead and removed it anyways. 3 days go by and the 2 candy tetras pass, along with the new yellow tail guppy I added.

Today – My tank is down to a stock of 2, 1 red wag and 1 yellow guppy – veterans from 1/21/2013. No visible ICK on these two. My tank is pretty cloudy at the moment, and the fish look sad and depressed. I myself am a little depressed. My confidence is very low. I feel nervous at the thought of adding more fish even after this cycle passes.


I know I must be doing something wrong. If you took the time to read my story, I hope you can offer some suggestions on what I can change. Here are some things I am unclear on:

1) When to water change: I get mixed answers on this, but my general take is to do routine small water changes, like 15% every week. If the tank has issues like high nitrate/ammonia, increase the capacity and frequency of the WC. Is this correct?

2) How I water change: I use a clean 5 gallon bucket. Half RO water and half tap water. I treat for chlorine for the amount of water I’m changing. I usually will run the tap water into the bucket and add the treatment right there, and usually wait an hour or so before doing the change. If I’m changing 5 gallons I add a 5 gallon treatment to the 2.5 tap water, then add 2.5 RO water into the bucket. I check temperature with my hand and compare with tank. On 10 gallon changes, I do a 10 gallon treatment to the 5 gallons of tap water. In this case I just add the tap water in straight from bucket to tank, maybe a 3rd of it, then I add in RO water straight from the jug, then more tap, then rest of RO, then tap to fill to about ¾” from the top of the tank. I use a dish that floats on the surface that I pour the water on to break it up. Any problems with any of this? Chlorine treatment ok?

3) Adding fish: Each time I have added fish after the first successful batch, I just put the bags in the water, add in tank water a shot glass at a time every 15 minutes for an hour and a half, then just tip the bag sideways and let them swim out. I don’t put any additives to the tank at this time. Is this OK? Should I add in a product like quick start?

4) ICK troubles: Am I doing the right thing in the way I’m treating ICK? I don’t know how long I should have the higher temps and copper content before I dub the tank OK. Any advice on my ICK problem would be appreciated.

5) Testing equipment: Right now I can test for Ammonia, pH, High range pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, and copper. Should I get anything else? I just want to make sure my tank parameters are optimal so my fish can live as long as possible.

6) Selecting fish: LFS told me fish should live years. Right now the average life expectancy in my tank is a few weeks to a month. The point of this thread is to figure out what I need to do to achieve long fish life, but maybe I should start out with some hardier fish? I really don’t know much about fish species or type.

7) Aeration: Right now I fill my tank to where there is about ¾” between the top of the water and the top light cover. I also don’t use aeration pump because the air bubbles caused a bit of a stir and fish got confused between surface bubbles and food. I don’t see the fish gasping up top for air or anything like that. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any replies.
 
What are your levels of Ammonia, NitrItes, NitrAtes before a water change?
How often do you do a water change of 5 gallons?
What do you test your water with?
 
What are your levels of Ammonia, NitrItes, NitrAtes before a water change?
How often do you do a water change of 5 gallons?
What do you test your water with?

I will test when I get home since the tank is a little cloudy, but for the past 2 weeks it has been:
Ammonia 0, NitrItes 0, NitrAtes 15ppm before water change.

With levels like that, I typically have done 5 gallon change every 5 days to a week. I was doing larger changes more often back in early March during the ammonia crisis. During that time I was getting between 4and 8ppm before WC.

I test my water with API testkit:
api_freshwater_test_kit-300x232.jpg
p-27185-43200-test-kit.jpg
 
Well, you levels look good and it looks like it cycled. Water changes seemed to be enough.

I don't have an idea but if it were me, I would be doing daily water changes and testing all the time.
 
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0.25
Nitrate 5
pH 7.8

To me, all that makes sense, like its mini-cycling or something since things got disrupted.

I guess what I'm wanting to know with this thread is if I have any bad habits. Also, how long to wait before adding fish after this ick incident? Lastly, why the heck do fish die shortly after I add them?
 
A couple of things come to mind for me.

From your readings, it does appear that your tank has cycled. However, I would do a larger water change (25% is the smallest water change I do on any tank), and I'd use a water conditioner/dechlorinator like Prime or Amquel Plus. The reason for that is that they dechlorinate and bind ammonia and nitrate. I'd also ditch the RO water. You're demineralizing the water in your tank, and there's not really a need for that.

Even though you're using a bucket, I'd treat the full capacity of the tank with the water conditioner. Dose for 30 gallons.

You asked about hardier fish. Zebra danios are very hardy fish. The only problem with that would be that danios can get kind of nippy if your guppy has prominent fins.

If you decide you'd rather not go with the danios, since your platy and guppy have been through a lot, then I'd run the tank with just those two fish for another 4 weeks and monitor everything very carefully. Test the water no less than every other day.

Two suggestions before you re-stock.

Click here for a fish compatibility website. It will tell you if two fish are compatible tankmates, and if there are special stocking requirements (like for schools or shoals of fish). You can also just do a search on the fish already in the tank, and it will list compatible tankmates for those fish.

Make yourself several lists of possibilities.

Then, go to this website and plug in the details of your tank (29 gallon high), and your specific filter. Select the fish and the numbers you want to stock from the drop-down list. The calculator will tell you whether you are overstocking, and whether your filter can handle the bioload. It will also give you warnings about fish that are jumpers and need lids, one fish that might eat another, etc.

Hang in there. You had a baptism by fire and you're still going.

It will get better.

ETA: You've kept an excellent journal. Keep that up.
 
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1) With water changes I normally do at least 30% weekly whether the nitrates need to be reduced or not. I also check my levels halfway through the week just to keep an eye on things.

When to water change: I get mixed answers on this, but my general take is to do routine small water changes, like 15% every week. If the tank has issues like high nitrate/ammonia, increase the capacity and frequency of the WC. Is this correct?

2) If you are treating the tap water in the bucket before adding it to the tank it should be perfectly fine to treat just the amount of water you're adding while its in the bucket. I will lightly pour the water straight into my tanks but using a bowl so it doesn't stir things up is just fine. As for the temperature matching I also just check with my hand and get it as close as possible before adding to the tank water. I also agree about ditching the R/O water. Its only really necessary in a saltwater aquarium and even then its debatable, All of the trace nutrients that your tap water has in it are necessary for the fish to survive minus the heavy metals which the stress coat should take care of.


3) Quick start is unnecessary in my opinion. Although I would avoid adding any of the pet store water to my tank if its at all possible. I would pour the water into a separate container and net the fish out of that container discarding the pet store water. Adding fish a few at a time will give your BB time to adjust to the new load of fish on the system.


4) I had a small outbreak of ich recently. I absolutely hate adding any kind of chemicals or medicines to my tank if it can be at all avoided. Try raising the temperature of your tank up to 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Ich won't reproduce at this temperature although you need a good heater and thermometer to do this. If you choose this method raise the temperature by 2 degrees every hour until it hits the range you want. Keep the temperature at this range for at least a week. Doing this took care of my ich problem in my 55g without a single recurrence or loss of any plants or fish. After the week is up drop the temperature by 2 degrees every hour until its back to normal.

Your fish will act a little strange this way but they should be okay. Just be sure to oxygenate your water very well because the higher temp water doesn't hold as much oxygen.

5) Your testing equipment should be enough. Are you using the strip testers or the drops?

6) Ive had a lot of luck with Rasboras, guppies, mollies, and platys. With that in mind don't buy a fish you don't like/ If they live you'll be stuck with them. Just be sure to take things slow.

7) If you don't see your fish gasping for air at the surface, I don't find the bubblers necessary. One thing to note, some fish will happily play in the bubbles. My harlequin rasboras swim back and forth across my tank to swim circles in the bubbles. It's really funny to watch.

Other things of note:
One feeding a day is plenty for fish it's even suggested to fast them for a day once a week or so.

Don't get discouraged, you've had a rough time so far and its sad to lose the fish, but it's a good learning experience and its obvious that you care about your pets which is a great deal more than how most people feel about their fish.

Love the journal I wish I had thought to keep a journal like that when I started.
 
All, thanks for the advice. I will discontinue the RO water and wait a month before restocking, and even then I will do it in increments of 2 fish. I think I will also try the dumping of LFS water when re-stocking.

Thanks for the links Sharpchick, I will do some research on what fish to get.
 
When you get new fish, don't mix the water from the lfs with the tank water. Take em out of the bag with a net.
 
A quick note from a fellow Texan aquarist...

We have moderately hard water here where I'm at (Austin area) and what I've had success with is keeping species that I can just use our regular tap water with. Luckily for you live bearers (guppies, mollies, platies) all generally do well in harder alkaline water. A lot of rainbowfish, danios, and white cloud minnows do well in hard water too.

So don't bother with the RO unless you're trying to keep species that need softer water like most tetras or dwarf cichlids. Just save yourself the trouble!

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with your fish. It's frustrating to loose fish, I lost my first fish to some type of disease. Thankfully I've been learning a lot since then...
 
I wanted to chime in here on a very important point that should be stressed more.

If you want a truly healthy tank you should invest in a quarantine tank. Most fish at pet stores are stressed and therefore more likely to be carrying diseases. This could be anything from parasites, fungus, and even worse bacterial infections.

I've lost quite a few fish because I couldn't wait to get them into the display tank. A 5 or 10 gallon with a simple sponge filter and small heater will go a long way.

I use a 5 gallon with a small box filter seeded with media from my main tank. No gravel or carbon and a small heater. Also a small clump of java moss. It's much simpler to treat and monitor fish in a set up like this.

Also I agree that you don't need to use RO water. I use Seachem Prime myself as my conditioner. I also feel that your lfs has been giving absolutely horrid advice. Try to avoid all the fancy chemicals to treat or alter your water chemistry.

Just keep doing your homework. As for treating ich: Heat, Salt, Water Changes.

Depending on your stock, the common practice is weekly 20-25 percent water changes from what I've studied. This is what I do. Your parameters are great. Be consistent with your water source. DO NOT OVER MANAGE YOUR FILTER. Meaning avoid unnecessarily changing the media.

Be mindful of decor also if you ever decide to add rock or driftwood. This can affect your pH and water hardness.

Ok hope some of what I said helps and Good Luck with your tank!
 
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