Are my Zoas ok..?

[SaltwaterNuB]

210.. Killer! I wish I had a bigger tank. How come you only run your uv for a few hours a day? What size would you recommend for a 135g? I've heard that they can be difficult to run...? True/False?

[Tkey3425]

Originally Posted by SaltwaterNuB

210.. Killer! I wish I had a bigger tank. How come you only run your uv for a few hours a day? What size would you recommend for a 135g? I've heard that they can be difficult to run...? True/False?

It kills everything that passes through it. Plus it can kill BB supposedly. Theres no science that i know of but I also dont run a chiller and the mag 12 plus the 40 watt uv bulb is just unneccessary heat added to my tank because i refuse to drop $1000 on a Chiller lol. Plus 24/7 isnt neccesary anyway. I run the Lifeguard QL-40 and its never leaked and ive had it for 3 years. I just have the return plumbed directly into the intake of my skimmer to draw out anything that has been killed by the uv rays. Id run the QL-25 (~$150) on your 135. It has some bad reviews in places but I call BS on them. Several of my friends run them (including myself) with out issues. For all that matters there is no reason you couldnt just put it in you sump if you have room lol then all issues are solved. I personally set it up in 2010 and havent touched it since other than an occasional cleaning which i quit doing because there is never anything in it. But it will kill a lot of parasites and diseases thet can get into you tank.

[Big Tex]

Originally Posted by Tkey3425

I hear you man. You're the first person I've seen that actually wants to listen. I don't expect you to follow every single rule and guideline. I know i dont. just trying to set you up for the best success you can have. You may already know it but Keeping your bulbs replaced every 6-9 months will help with algae growth too. Skimmer will also help and running a UV sterilizer will also make a difference although i only run mine for a few hours a week. You're doing a good job but my advice is keep at least one slot open for a new fish for a while. It never fails as soon as i "fill" my tank to my comfort level. I see another fish i want. The only problem about my 210 is it can have so many fish in it that its hard to keep everyone in the tank from fighting and compatability is crutial.

i know i did some window shopping today and i found i few i like, but i just cant make up my mind i want a red or yellow fish next, then blue, and ill be done (for now) lol

[Tkey3425]

Hoeven's Wrasse and a Flame hawkfish

[Stlrockguy]

I do a weekly water change on my 55. I was told that the water changes help replace the trace elements that coral need. You should look into a good salt mix if you plan

[Tkey3425]

Originally Posted by Stlrockguy

I do a weekly water change on my 55. I was told that the water changes help replace the trace elements that coral need. You should look into a good salt mix if you plan

I've used kent Marine reef salt. Mixes perfect and consistent everytime. 200 Gallon box (more like 170ish at 1.026 but i think most of them calculate for 1.023) runs less than $50 online with free shipping. Everything comes up quick and it dissolves quickly and clear.

[Big Tex]

Originally Posted by Tkey3425

Hoeven's Wrasse and a Flame hawkfish

hey tim the guy down at my lfs said i should try to dip my zoas, any harm done if i do and theres nothing on them..? will it help..?

[Stlrockguy]

I use instant ocean reef crystals. My friend buys cases of it at a time

[Stlrockguy]

I need to dip mine as well tex. but I think I need to do a hypo dip

[Tkey3425]

Originally Posted by Big Tex

hey tim the guy down at my lfs said i should try to dip my zoas, any harm done if i do and theres nothing on them..? will it help..?

I personally dip every coral and quarantine every coral and fish before putting them into my tank. no harm done with dipping if there is nothing on them but hypo IMO is not good for corals, Hardy corals like zoas might bounce back from a hypo dip but that salinity swing is likely to damage sensitive corals (ALL CORALS ARE EXTREMELY SENSITIVE) I don't hypo dip anything unless absolutely necessary. I do use hypo for fish but drop the salinity very slowly over the course of 2 weeks not just drop them in. To me its unnecessary to FW dip fish/coral like that and have personally never had a problem i couldn't solve another less stressful way. I use CoralRX. just fill a bowl with it (mixed by the directions on the back) and use a medicine dropper or turkey baster to gently but firmly blast the colony. FYI do not use the dish or baster for anything else especially for food prep or consumption. Zoa eating nudibrachs are really really small and normally the same color as the zoa so get a magnifying glass if your eyes aren't bionic. If there are any on there dip the colony and then if they wont die just manually remove them or let the coral sit for a day or so and then re dip it.

[Big Tex]

Originally Posted by Tkey3425

I personally dip every coral and quarantine every coral and fish before putting them into my tank. no harm done with dipping if there is nothing on them but hypo IMO is not good for corals, Hardy corals like zoas might bounce back from a hypo dip but that salinity swing is likely to damage sensitive corals (ALL CORALS ARE EXTREMELY SENSITIVE) I don't hypo dip anything unless absolutely necessary. I do use hypo for fish but drop the salinity very slowly over the course of 2 weeks not just drop them in. To me its unnecessary to FW dip fish/coral like that and have personally never had a problem i couldn't solve another less stressful way. I use CoralRX. just fill a bowl with it (mixed by the directions on the back) and use a medicine dropper or turkey baster to gently but firmly blast the colony. FYI do not use the dish or baster for anything else especially for food prep or consumption. Zoa eating nudibrachs are really really small and normally the same color as the zoa so get a magnifying glass if your eyes aren't bionic. If there are any on there dip the colony and then if they wont die just manually remove them or let the coral sit for a day or so and then re dip it.

yeah thats makes sense, the guys down at my lrs said i need to use coral rx, they dip EVERYTHING before adding it into the coral display tank and espescially into the prop tank, i think ill pick some up friday when i get out of work, they have the big bottle for $9.00 i hope this works, i think some polyps have died off, so ill post some pics when i get home around 6pm central time,

btw tim, check this out and let me know: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...er-278209.html

[Big Tex]

Here's a pic guys, idk how but I snapped one from behind the tank at the back where there's almost nothing growing.

[mr_X]

I would dip that frag in some Lugols. That looks like a fungus to me, unless that's just white glue. The shrimp smells them dying also.

[Big Tex]

Originally Posted by mr_X

I would dip that frag in some Lugols. That looks like a fungus to me, unless that's just white glue. The shrimp smells them dying also.

It might be a fungus I just saw that fuzzy stuff, where can i get that stuff?

[mr_X]

The LFS or online. It's just an iodine solution. I would not know the dosage or if the pharmacy iodine would work. I could not find the MSDS for Lugols.