I knew things were going too good - it's ick

[spinman]

Of all the advice given and taken, the ONE thing I did not do was QT my BHT. And I'm paying for it now.

After 2 weeks in the display tank, it appears the BHT has ick. Tiny white spots on the body. He's kind of listing around the bottom of the tank and the Bannerfish will sometimes pick at his body. To tell the truth, I can't see these white spots being that I'm very nearsighted, but my wife can. She's also seeing the spots on the two Bannerfish.

What to do first? Should I be setting up the QT now? I'm dreading the thought of having to capture my entire stock and QTing the lot.

Thx

Mike

 

[cmor1701d]

Set up the QT immediately. Get all the fish into the QT and start a Hyposalinity treatment. Be prepared for daily (or 2x daily) water changes to keep up with bio load. You don't have time to get a bio filter going so pwc is all you for now. Get a filter going on the QT tank to help, though it will take a while to develop. I keep some filter material in a corner overflow should I need it in the future.

I did this a few months ago. Had both a 12 and 30 gal QT set up and saved them all. I believe my tank is now free of the parasite but you never know what may bring it in.

Good luck.

 

[spinman]

should I make up the QT water from new RO, or pull some out of the dispaly (ie. infected) tank

Thx

Mike

 

[cmor1701d]

Doesn't matter but I usually use tank water and do a pwc in the main tank at that time.

Also, some advise from Steve-s (one of the advisors I always listen to!)
"When dropping the salinity using RO water, it has a fairly low pH and you are diluting the chemistry of the SW. It is very important to adjust the pH of the new water being added so it does not dilute the chemistry of the treatment tank. It is also necessary to test pH/alk daily to ensure it does not drop due to the diluted conditions of the water. "

 

[steve-s]

Filling the QT initially with the main tanks water is fine but be sure all water changes in future are done with newly prepared SW that has been aged/aerated a day ahead. As for the rest, cmor1701d is spot on ('scuse the pun) 8)

Cheers
Steve

 

[spinman]

I am in the process of setting up the QT today. I know the clock is ticking.

I plan on setting up a 30 gallon QT. I know I'm behind the 8 ball in terms of bio filtration, but was wondering if I could rig up soem kind of bio filter using the sponge block in the wet dry and a powerhead? Seems that the sponge block has been in the tank for weeks and should be loaded with bacteria.

If not, how many gallons of water should i be changing every day?

Thx

Mike

 

[steve-s]

but was wondering if I could rig up soem kind of bio filter using the sponge block in the wet dry and a powerhead? Seems that the sponge block has been in the tank for weeks and should be loaded with bacteria.

That is actually a good way to transfer sufficient bacterial mass when you don't have a cycled QT going. It should work well, just remember it cannot go back to the main tank. If you are using a HOB or canister for the QT, just add it in there.

If not, how many gallons of water should i be changing every day?

It won't be uncommon to need daily water changes (25%+) even with a cycled tank, sometimes 2x daily. Really comes down to the fish load and treatment chosen. Meds especially can impact the bacteria's ability to reproduce. With the changes in pH caused by hyposalinity if not monitored properly, it can also cause bacterial decline.

Which treatment did you opt for?

Cheers
Steve

 

[spinman]

My planned ttreatment is hypo only. With regard to the sponge block from the wet dry, my plans are to carve out an area on the sponge and imbed the powerhead (Rio 1100) on the intake side in the sponge. I seemed to recall seeing this technique on a recent web surf.

As of this writing, the QT is powered up with the salt mixing and the temp. @ 78F. I've got a Rio 1100 keeping things moving.

I'm worried about this pH issue with the hypo treatment. Can I use the Kent superbuffer dKh to adjust my pH?.

Thx

Mike

 

[Guest]

Yes. Good idea. A Seachem ammonia alert badge will also help give you a heads up when a water change is due. Be sure to put them in the tank at regular SG and then lower the SG gradually. You'll need a refractometer to get it accurate. Hypo is about 1/3 that of NSW. Good luck!

KG

 

[spinman]

I don't see the need for a e refractometer. I think the big push for these is due to the low accuracy of your normal LFS hydrometers.

I was lucky to have a Lab grade large scale hydrometer that i used in my beer making to check the beer at bottling time. Even with my eyes, it's easy to read the scale.

Here's the one I have:

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/PRECISION_BOTTLING_HYDROMETER_P529.cfm

I don't see why this wouldn't work, as long as you adjust for temp. This one is calibrated at 60F.

Mike

 

[steve-s]

A floating hydrometer will work just fine as long as you compensate for temp. The main concern is swing arms which you obviously don't have. I would target 1.009

The Superbuffer DKH will work very well at helping to maintain the pH. Your plan for the sponge sounds fine as well. Be sure the QT has some PVC pieces in place before adding the fish if possible. It will offer hiding places as well as aditional bacterial surface areas.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

The need is that you must have something that is accurate at that salanity. Your hydrometer might have worked because it was lab grade and probably as expensive as a refractometer.

KG

 

[spinman]

I'm bumming out right now becuase I see the fish are suffering and can't see any way of getting them out the display tank. The minute the net goes in, they hide in the LR.

I just don't have the fortitude to dismantle 100#s of LR to get them out.

I've reached the end of my rope....

Mike

 

[cmor1701d]

Mike,

I had to remove all my rock (180#) to catch the fish. I used two 20 gal rubbermaid containers. I partially filled them with tank water then added the rock I added water from the tank as needed to keep the rock covered. I was then able to scoop the fish from the tank with a large net. I thought I had lost my bicolor blenny in the process. Seems he tucked into a rock crevice and made the trip to the rubbermaid container. He was sitting in the bottom of it when I was done putting the rock back in the tank.

This also gave me the chance to re-aquascape my rock.

 

[quarryshark]

I just don't have the fortitude to dismantle 100#s of LR to get them out.

No corals? Then you are gonna need to.
There is a way to make it easier. Get a big (new) garbage can and remove as much of the rock and water as you can into it. Get 2 if you have to. Basically, if you remove their real estate, they are much easier to catch.
You can even partition half of the tank off after doing this to make it easier yet.
Its know fun, I have had to do it twice.

 

[quarryshark]

Ah, cmor1701d beat me to it.

 

[ashobson]

why not try kick ick? it worked great for me. No water changes no mess no fuss just follow the directions and in 2 weeks you are ick free. I was any way. I have no space for a qt or hospital tank. I have gotten ick twice once in my 54 corner then in my 75. I used kick ick both times and it worked twice.

 

[spinman]

Well, hearing your stories gave me the push to get this done. Last night my wife and I did the move. I didn't have to pull out all the LR which was nice. Bad thing I lost one of the Bannerfish. it was looking pretty bad 2 days ago. Kind of darkening up on the white parts of its body. Then when I started pulling out the LR, we couldn't find the Banner. He just disappeared, much like a B. Cardinal that ate a PH months ago. I can only surmise that the E. Crabs made quick work of the Banner.

In any event, all the fish are in the 30 gal QT with 2 6" PVC fittings to hide in and the wet dry sponge block with embedded PH, as well as a 10" sponge that I had used to quiet the skimmer splash. I''m thinking I should have adequate bio filtration.

I plan on swapping out 5 gallons of tank water with buffered RO water tonight to start lowering the SG.

I'd like to replace the lost Banner and was wondering if now would be a good time to get it and place it in the QT with the others. I'm thinking it might be a problem with the 1.009 SG by the time i get the new fish.

Mike

 

[steve-s]

Leave off any new additions until you have completed with this unfortunate task. You will have much better success keeping the bioload as managable as possible.

There is however no reaon why you cannot set up a second QT though. In that respect, it would allow you to introduce the new/old fish at the same time.

Cheers
Steve

 

[spinman]

Thanks Steve. Guess I'll hold off on anohter Banner til the Hypo runs its course. The thought of running and maintaining THREE tanks at once is too much to bear right now.
~~~~~~~~~~~
You mentioned not to reintroduce the sponge block back into the main tank after Hypo. Can you tell me why? Wouldn't all the ich parasites be killed after the 6 week hypo?

Thx

Mike