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Old 11-28-2013, 10:08 PM   #1
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Ich?

If yes what's best way to fix? No other fish but the butterfly have it either yet
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:19 PM   #2
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Looks like it from what I can see. Definitely set up a hospital tank and try either copper or hypo salinity. From what I've heard nothing else works. A FW dip causes some to let go, but I've only experienced ich once. Didn't go well :/
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:20 PM   #3
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Ok after further investigation of the other fish I noticed a few others with it also...if I do the lower salinity in my dt and quarantine all the fish in another tank what about the invertebrates ? Will I need to remove them from the dt also ?
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:24 PM   #4
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The whole idea of hypo salinity is to actually expose the fish to it. I'd also assume it would be really bad for inverts, due to the fact they're pretty intolerant
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:50 PM   #5
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So just in my quarantine tank do the hypo treatment and in my dt do the copper and not the hypo so I don't kill my inverts?
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:58 PM   #6
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I think I'm going to take all the fish out of the 55 and use my makeshift quarantine tank (Rubbermaid 30 gal tote) for them with a HOB filter and heater and I have another 30 gal tote and hob filter for the inverts and snails...and do the hypo on the dt and fish quarantine ...3-4 weeks seperate right?
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:58 PM   #7
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So just in my quarantine tank do the hypo treatment and in my dt do the copper and not the hypo so I don't kill my inverts?
copper will kill inverts, do NOT ever put it in your display. take all fish out of the display and keep them in qt for 6-8 weeks. the tank needs to be fallow for the ich to die off. inverts can not carry ich, you can leave your coral/clean up crew in while treating your fish. now that you introduced it, there is a pretty good chance all your fish could be infected so you will need to treat them all
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:59 PM   #8
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Ok...thanks for the quick replys ...my nerves can rest lol
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:05 PM   #9
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Do I need to change filter media after fallow on dt or will it die with no hosts? The crazy thing is I was just thinking about me being lucky so far I hadn't gotten ich yet before I rearranged the dt...jinxed myself Doh!
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:21 PM   #10
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Do I need to change filter media after fallow on dt or will it die with no hosts? The crazy thing is I was just thinking about me being lucky so far I hadn't gotten ich yet before I rearranged the dt...jinxed myself Doh!
it will die off completely, no worries to change anything. just think of the people that sink thousands into their tank and this happens!!!! now you know better
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:18 AM   #11
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Read this. Completely explains ich.

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:43 AM   #12
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Ok another question...so my hydrometer isn't accurate enough to do hypo ...where is the best place to pick up a refractometer and what will it cost me? I didn't put that into my budget so is it expensive?
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:04 AM   #13
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When I put a new fish in my tank a lot of times the next day or the next few days the fish will get ich, i was told its because of stress in a new environment so they're more susceptible. the treatment for this that my local fish store told me was to fresh water dip the fish. I make the water the same temp as the tank, I add buffer and prime to the water and put whatever affected fish in the bucket for at least 15 minutes. This will kill most of the ick on the fish. If the fish seems fine after 15 minutes and the ick is really bad I normally leave the fish in for even 20 minutes. Repeat this daily if the ick is still bad. Also lower salinity in that tank. I also use what's called kick ick, it works very well it's a bit pricey but I think worth it and its okay with corals and inverts. I also have a uv sterilizer which helps with parasites too. Good luck
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:14 AM   #14
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When I put a new fish in my tank a lot of times the next day or the next few days the fish will get ich, i was told its because of stress in a new environment so they're more susceptible. the treatment for this that my local fish store told me was to fresh water dip the fish. I make the water the same temp as the tank, I add buffer and prime to the water and put whatever affected fish in the bucket for at least 15 minutes. This will kill most of the ick on the fish. If the fish seems fine after 15 minutes and the ick is really bad I normally leave the fish in for even 20 minutes. Repeat this daily if the ick is still bad. Also lower salinity in that tank. I also use what's called kick ick, it works very well it's a bit pricey but I think worth it and its okay with corals and inverts. I also have a uv sterilizer which helps with parasites too. Good luck
DO NOT DO THIS. A freshwater dip will not cure ich, it will just stress the fish out much more. Prime does not take heavy metals out of the water and other chemicals. This is why you must use pure RODI water with 0 TDS. Doing hypo in the display will kill your BB that is why you do it in a QT. Setup a QT fit for the sizes need by your fish and treat with copper and feed nutritous foods. I reccomend coper-cure, you can get it at petco.

Basiclly all "invert safe" are phoney crap. If they worked than no one would buy a QT and have to treat in there. UV sterilizer just kills the free swimming form but not the cysts.

Go out and get a cheap top fin heater from petsmart (like 20$) and then get a 20g. Aqueon quiet flows are good for filtration and cheap also (20$) there youve got your QT, drain water from the DT and add filter media from the DT aswell, treat the fish until they are healthy again and leave the tank for 6-8 weeks.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:23 AM   #15
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DO NOT DO THIS. A freshwater dip will not cure ich, it will just stress the fish out much more. Prime does not take heavy metals out of the water and other chemicals. This is why you must use pure RODI water with 0 TDS. Doing hypo in the display will kill your BB that is why you do it in a QT. Setup a QT fit for the sizes need by your fish and treat with copper and feed nutritous foods. I reccomend coper-cure, you can get it at petco.

Basiclly all "invert safe" are phoney crap. If they worked than no one would buy a QT and have to treat in there. UV sterilizer just kills the free swimming form but not the cysts.

Go out and get a cheap top fin heater from petsmart (like 20$) and then get a 20g. Aqueon quiet flows are good for filtration and cheap also (20$) there youve got your QT, drain water from the DT and add filter media from the DT aswell, treat the fish until they are healthy again and leave the tank for 6-8 weeks.
Fresh water dips won't cure ich but it WILL remove a fair number of the parasites from the fish. As I stated previously it is very stressful for the fish but a lot less stressful than dying.

I do agree with the rest though.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:35 AM   #16
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All I'm saying is, if the ich is very bad on a particular fish, fresh water dip is your best bet to save him from Dying, once you get most of the ich off I'd say put him in a qt tank and fallow the rest but I alway have good luck with fresh water dips and I always put the fish right back in its tank after and it ends up being fine once it gets used to the tank.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:39 AM   #17
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Fresh water dips won't cure ich but it WILL remove a fair number of the parasites from the fish. As I stated previously it is very stressful for the fish but a lot less stressful than dying.

I do agree with the rest though.
If improperly done (it should only be done for at most 10 minutes) it usually kills the fish. Yes it can be effective against fluke, worms, and other parasites it is not that effective against ich as it forms that protective cyst (white spot) but FW dip only kills the ich that is free swimming inside the fish. If a fish is in horrible shape than go for it but that butterfly still has a chance.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:45 AM   #18
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All I'm saying is, if the ich is very bad on a particular fish, fresh water dip is your best bet to save him from Dying, once you get most of the ich off I'd say put him in a qt tank and fallow the rest but I alway have good luck with fresh water dips and I always put the fish right back in its tank after and it ends up being fine once it gets used to the tank.
If you already have a QT tank than why not QT all new arrivals? Before you infest your tank with ich? Ich is not a major parasite as it is the most common disease in aquaria, Which means there are alot of medications. And with all these meds you can easily treat your fish without threatening their lifes with a FW dip.
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:49 PM   #19
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Read these. They will answer your questions and provide you with some treatment options.

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything by Steven Pro

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:01 PM   #20
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So I picked up some copper treatment for the hospital tank and copper test kits all I need now is some PVC piping to throw in it and project ich destruction is on! Is it ok to do copper and hypo or only do one or the other?
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