Koran Angel Showing Ich?

[mcquillian]

My Koran Angel has one white speck on his tail fin, and one on his other fin. How do I know if this is ich? What is the recommendation for treatment?

My water levels are perfect. I just tested them. Pretty frustrated over tryting to keep healthy fish. All of my other fish look fine.

Any assistance or advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

[srgetz]

you may want to monitor him closely - see if more spots show up and if he shows itching / rubbing behavior or other symptoms - and be prepared to set up qt in a hurry

in the mean time try some garlic or vitamin soaked foods, and several large (20-30%) water changes over the next week, this with the cleaner shrimp may swing the things in the fishes favor

 

[steve-s]

Water quality will have nothing to do wether the fish aquire C. irritans. It is either introduced or it's not there

With a Koran, it could be ich but I would investigate the possibility of a fungal infection as well. Being both affected area's are on the fins, I would suspect that moreso. They are very susceptible to fungul infection. They should also not be housed in such a small tank. I definately hope a larger tank is in the works.

How's the water quality?

Pics of Cryptocaryon irritans, Lymphocystis which will be smooth and fungus which will have a fluffy textured look.

Cheers
Steve

 

[mcquillian]

The Water quality tests fine. The other fish are exhibiting no problems. There are no signs of stress or fighting, and all fish are eating well. Unfortunately, a larger tank is out of the question, so if I screwed up (or my LFS gave me the wrong advice) I apologize for my ignorance.

I will break away from work today, and head to my LFS with the information that you have provided. The Koran has a one white speck on his tail, and one on his side fin. I have also noticed some light brown patches on his side, so maybe he has both Lymph and Crypt (what the hell, I might as well collect the set . . .)

Again, apologize for my sarcasm. I am really trying to do this right. My LFS is highly reputable in Orlando. So I will provide them with the information that you have suggested and take it from there.

Maybe I will just keep a tank with a few damsels and the Hawkfish. It just seems any time I try to introduce any fish larger (or more expensive) than the Hawkfish I run into problems.

As I have said, my water test fine - you could lick my tank clean. Maybe I have just had a bad run of luck. I don't know.

Thanks for your help. I will keep you posted.

 

[mcquillian]

Here's the update:

My LFS tested my water and noticed a slight trace of Nitrite, and for some reason my salt content was a little high, but again very slight.

My LFS reccommended that I do a 50% water change, and watch the tank closely over the next several days.

No medication was reccommended. ( I asked)

My LFS believes that since this is a mild outbreak on one fish (Koran Angel) that eventually the ich will fall off the fish.

So I wait . . .

Does this seem like a realistic plan of attack?

I appreciate your response. Thanks.

 

[Atari]

What are the actual water parameters?

The parasite will not die off if there are fish still in the aquarium. It may look like it has but once it goes through it's life cycle again it will reappear. Without a host it cannot complete this cycle so the only real cure is to remove the fish.

Products designed for the main tank will not offer a cure.. they merely treat the symptoms. Anything that could kill off the parasite completely would also kill beneficial organisms. That's why a QT is recommended.

 

[mcquillian]

Atari,

What I think my Koran Angel has is Lymphocystis.

This is my understanding:

Lymphocystis is frequently mistaken for Cryptocaryon or ich. However, Lymphocystis is a virus rather than a parasite. Lymphocystis frequently appears on the edges of fins and occasionally on the body as cauliflower- or cotton-like nodules. The nodules are considerably larger that Cryptocaryon or oodinum, usually 1/8 inch in diameter or larger. Except in extreme cases, the nodules usually do not number more than 6-10. Frequently there may be only 1 or 2. The lymphocystis nodules rarely multiply nor do they enlarge markedly. This seems to coincide with the way my Koran Angel looks as he only has two or three spots on his fins.

My understanding of treatment for lymphocystis through my LFS is as follows. Left alone the nodules will eventually fall off. This may take a month or longer. Since lymphocystis is neither contagious nor destructive this is the preferred treatment. My LFS also suggested the possibility of removing the nodules. I have no intention of doing this at this time as this probably will be extremely stressful on the fish and the possibility of reinfection is high. The best treatment is to watch the fish closely and let the virus run its course.

Regarding water measurements, I have just tested my Nitrite, Amonia, Nitrate, and Slat content. All measurements are clean and acceptable.

As a newbie, I realize that I am in the learning process. I, however, find it frustrating that there are SO MANY differing opinions regarding treatment and maintenance of a Saltwater tank.

I greatly appreciate you input. Thanks for your help.

 

[Atari]

Well if it is lympho then I agree that it's probably best left alone and should take care of itself given excellent water conditions and a nutritious diet.

I hate to flog a dead horse, but can you give us the actual numbers for the water tests.

 

[mcquillian]

I will be happy to give you the test results, unfortunately, I am at work and have all of my results in a notebook ( I track everything I do to my tank)

When I get home, I will post again. Thanks for your response.

Here's one question: Does Lympho generally attack just the fins (which is what is happening to my Koran Angel) or does it attack the body as well?

 

[Atari]

Yes it typically affects the fins, but may also appear on the body.

 

[mcquillian]

Atari,

Here you go . . .

Nitrite = <0.1 ppm

Amonia = 0 ppm

Nitrate = < 5.0 ppm

Salt = 1.022 g/cm

I do not have any other tests kits than those listed. However, my LFS tested everything (yesterday) as described among other tests as well.

I did contact a second reputable LFS store for there reccomendation. They felt that the direction that I am taking was a good solution to the problem. They also reccommended that I could take the fish out and scrape off the white material on the fish. Have you ever done this? Am I better off just leaving the fish alone and let nature take it's course? Appreciate your input. Thanks again.

 

[steve-s]

I would definately suggest a few water changes over the next week with well aged SW to get that nitrite down to zero. That will hamper the fish's ability to kick the problem. Also ensure it get's vitamin fortified foods high in [acronym="Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acid"]HUFA[/acronym]'s such as Selcon or Zoecon. Water quality and diet are paramount in getting rid of the Lympho.

They also reccommended that I could take the fish out and scrape off the white material on the fish. Have you ever done this? Am I better off just leaving the fish alone and let nature take it's course? Appreciate your input. Thanks again.

This is actually not very recommended unless the fish's gills or mouth are being affected. The Lympho may look unsightly but as long as the fish can breath and eat properly is absolutely no danger to the fish.

Cheers
Steve

 

[mcquillian]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for your advice. It is greatly appreciated. I feed my fish ONLY Life Line Herbivore Minced Frozen Tropical Fish Food (Cube) by Biotope Research. It states "Now More Viatamins. I always thaw the food before feeding, and generally feed 1/4 of a cube once a day. I ffed a little at a time, watch the tank, and ensure that all fish eat.

The analysis is:

5.3% Crude Protein (Minimum)
2.2% Fat (Minimum)
1.2% Crude Fiber (Maximum)
86.2% Moisture (Maximum)

This food comes highly reccommended by my LFS. Please let me know if you think this is acceptable, or if I should look for your suggested choice.

P.S. Sometimes my Cleamer Shrimp grab food, quite often not. I am assuming that they scavenger around my tank and eat?

Thanks.

 

[mcquillian]

I really should start using the spellcheck . . .

 

[mcquillian]

OK - I get it. Selcon is a fish food adititve that I can add to my existing cube food. I will check with my LFS to see if they have any.

 

[quarryshark]

I would still keep a close watch and be ready to treat just in case with a qt system. If is is a parasite, it can strike fast.