Losing fish. Help needed.

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proff1949

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
31
Location
Marylands Eastern Shore
HELP!!!

I am having a very big problem here and I am definitely in trouble.

For the past year I have been unable to keep my little friends alive. Seems like on the average they only survive several months. and dont even think about trying any invertebrates. Today I lost one of my oldest clowns. She was a little over a year old and a Gobi last week that was about the same age.

I have done water changes over and over on a regular basis. All the water testing suggests water is good. PH good spot on, calcium around 400, Ammonia, nitrates and nitrites are at 0. Im at about my wits end. Tank is 55 gal FO about 3 years old but has never done very well. Problems, mostly with algae have haunted me since it was first set up.

Any help out there would greatly be appreciated.:banghead:
 
what is the salinity temp and parameters in numbers
are you using ro/di or tap have you checked for copper in your tank
once a little more info is added it may help pin point your problem
 
I'd look into what 'the problem since day one' that you pointed out. Algae means nutrients, mostly nitrates. You'll not see it since the algae is consuming it all, giving a false 0. As those numbers rise they become stressful to fish, cutting life spans.


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what is the salinity temp and parameters in numbers
are you using ro/di or tap have you checked for copper in your tank
once a little more info is added it may help pin point your problem

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I will have to track down some additional testing equipment. Unfortunately I live about 21/2 hours from the nearest decent pet store so obtaining decent information and equipment is a bit of a problem.

Also could direct me to a place that fills in the blanks on the different abbreviations. FO SW RO/DI etc etc. Some are quite easy and some I have never heard of, Thanks
 
I'd look into what 'the problem since day one' that you pointed out. Algae means nutrients, mostly nitrates. You'll not see it since the algae is consuming it all, giving a false 0. As those numbers rise they become stressful to fish, cutting life spans.


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I still can't understand how you think this is accurate.
If it was as you suggest, then why bother with refugiums and ATS set-ups, bio-pellets, etc. because it is pointless because the nitrate is still there, you just can't measure it.???????
Isn't the point to get things low enough that they can't be detected?

Ammonia & nitrite are also present all the time, just at levels that remain undetectable due to the action of the filters.
nor is there any firm proof that nitrate is detrimental to fish to the degree often claimed.
I was actually shocked when researching octopi when I read about one being kept successfully in a system with nitrate well over 100ppm with no adverse effects, and octopi are one of the most sensitive critters we can keep.

What needs to be done is to view the nitrate as an indicator of how much nutrients are being put into the system because it is the best indicator.
How many folks cause more harm by chasing down numbers, especially for something as relatively benign as nitrate?

I doubt that nitrate has anything to do with the fish deaths other than being an indicator of nutrient issues.


@OP
being a fish only tank, you can easily manage algae by managing the light cycle and type of lighting.

Have you tested your source water for any type of metals or other contaminates?
Have you checked for stray voltage in the water?
 
loosing fish...

In response to my tread last week here is what I have collected from testing water.

PH 7.4
Ammonia 0
Nitrite o
nitrates 0
phosphate .25
calcium 400
KH off scale in the vicinity of 450
Water (well) temp is 75/77 @ 1.023

I have yet to be able to find someone near me that can check for metal or other contaminates.

One problem I had was the test kit. It had some noticeably different results from the new one I just purchased.


Any suggestions, please keep them civil, as to whats I am missing here please let me know. Thanks:banghead:
 
first test results

Ammonia 0
Phosphate 0
KH150
Not really sure how much difference this makes. I was just asked what the numbers were initially.
 
Are you using R/O water or tap water?, Because if you're using tap this could be your problem.Try Kordons amquel water conditioner and see if that works for you and use R/O water only.
 
RO v Tap water

We use only well water and have for years. This has never been a problem in the past but I guess there is a first time for everything. Thanks for the reply, I will look into it. Am I going to be scared when I see the price? lol
 
No at petco the big bottle which is 16 ozs is 14.99 and will treat up to 960 gallons if used correctly. And the 8 oz bottle is 4.99 I don't know how many gallons it will treat, it's been a while since i bought that size .it's called kordon amquel plus ammonia detoxifier it's for fresh or saltwater , and it detoxifies nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, chlorine & chloramines. I've used this for years and never had a problem.
 
No its 14.99 for a 16 oz bottle at petco, treats 960 gallons if used correctly. It takes out nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, chlorine, & chloramines. I've used this for years without a problem.
 
As you using well water any chance of any contamination also do you run any activated carbon at all ?

PH is low I would be happier seeing it over 8


KH 150 !!! You sure that's correct as natural sea water only 7 ish !!!

Something is seriously amis with your chemistry within your tank or your test kits are out a mile.

1.023 is fine for FOWLR myself having a reef shoots for 1.026
 
There could be contamination, Can never be sure but you can always be safe.No I don't use carbon, I'm running 2 penguin bio filters,a protein skimmer, a powerhead, and a 150 watt heater. Fluval makes this stuff called fluval sea alkalinity raises Ph to where it's supposed to be and maintains it.
 
Fluval makes this stuff called fluval sea alkalinity raises Ph to where it's supposed to be and maintains it.

And will also push ALK up and that's the last thing he needs !!! until he 100% sure on current level.


Good surface agitation ect will always help keep a good PH if you don't have much surface agitation then aim a powerhead or a return upwards. Also you will see a PH drop at night so test PH at the same time during day when lights been on :)
 
It won't raise it by much if used right, my power head is pointed toward the surface and my ph dropped and alkalinity did to, the fluval put everything dead on and made my water crystal clear.
 
One thing about me is that I don't sell myself on products, If they work I'll tell you it works, if it don't I'll tell you it don't.
 
It won't raise it by much if used right, my power head is pointed toward the surface and my ph dropped and alkalinity did to, the fluval put everything dead on and made my water crystal clear.
The only reason you would dose an Alk product is to replace the amount consumed by the system for example I have to dose 70ml of ALK a day to keep mine stable so just buying an ALK liquid and plonking it in will not work long term it will end in tears as you have to work out the weekly consumption then divide that by 7 which will give you a daily dose that's needed and the amount you have to dose will depend on the strength of the liquid you are adding it will normally quote a DKH raise per X ml over X litres not forgetting that dosing will need tweeking depending on growth ect as well as consumption can change.

Most systems especially the OP being FOWLR will have nothing consuming ALK so why dose it ? Basic waterchanges will keep his system where it's needed providing he is using a good quality water to mix his salt with without whacking chemicals in and ones that will push ALK up when his alk already high.


To the OP what salt are you using ?
 
I know that's why I test my water daily, or I take it to my friend who's a marine biologist and he'll run test for me.Thats only when my test kits run out. Lol.
 
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