My QT tank due to ICK

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

I had two store owners say that 1.012 to 1.014 was good enough. At this point everyones idea of hypo is there own. Im about to pull my hair out.

[cmor1701d]

Your lfs dont know what they're talking about. Here's some reading material that will inform you about the paraiste and the proper way to do Hyposalinity.
You CANNOT do Hypo without a refractometer!

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment

[FTMMWS]

Originally Posted by cmor1701d

Your lfs dont know what they're talking about. Here's some reading material that will inform you about the paraiste and the proper way to do Hyposalinity.
You CANNOT do Hypo without a refractometer!

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment

+1 to that!!
Pretty sure i linked another good read about hypo in this thread too

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

Originally Posted by cmor1701d

Your lfs dont know what they're talking about. Here's some reading material that will inform you about the paraiste and the proper way to do Hyposalinity.
You CANNOT do Hypo without a refractometer!

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment

I have a refractometer

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

I think i may do this. Makes sense and will be drug free.

From the article


. The problem is, moving a fish from an infected tank to a clean tank is a proven cure. It is one of the variations on the daily water change method that I mentioned in my first article on Cryptocaryon irritans (Colorni, 1987). In that paper, Colorni describes moving an infected fish between two tanks. The tanks are cleaned and dried between uses, thereby ridding them of tomonts. He instructs to do this every three days for ten days. This is very similar to what happened with the Purple Tang. There should have been two more moves, but Cratylus got lucky with just the one.

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

I have studied the life cycle.

I made a picture of what happens i will mow share... No laughing lol

[cmor1701d]

I believe you now understand the life cycle and why Hyposalinity is the safest cure, most natural cure.

I have a dozen corals that just completed a drip acclimation, they were removed and water was gently shaken off. They are now in a CoarlRx bath, to be followed by a double bath of tank water before going into the tank. This lowers the chance of bringing the Ich parasite into the DT to close to 0. Notice I did not say zero, as there is always some small chance. I would need to keep them in a separate frag tank for a month to make that happen. I just don't have the room for that.

[don_chuwish]

Originally Posted by cmor1701d

I believe you now understand the life cycle and why Hyposalinity is the safest cure, most natural cure.

I have a dozen corals that just completed a drip acclimation, they were removed and water was gently shaken off. They are now in a CoarlRx bath, to be followed by a double bath of tank water before going into the tank. This lowers the chance of bringing the Ich parasite into the DT to close to 0. Notice I did not say zero, as there is always some small chance. I would need to keep them in a separate frag tank for a month to make that happen. I just don't have the room for that.

Thanks! Confirms my thinking on a good protocol to avoid untrusted water introduction.

- D

[don_chuwish]

Originally Posted by Georgia

I made a picture of what happens i will mow share... No laughing lol

Nice! I think a lot of those wordy Ich articles could benefit from some quality info graphics.

- D

[cmor1701d]

@Don, avoiding unknown water intro into your DT should always be on your mind. I follow a similar protocol for inverts after acclimating them. Not everything can be properly QT'd at home unless you have the space, money and time for it, so do the best you can.

@Georgia, your drawing makes me want to cut and paste from various articles and make a similar diagram I can post when this issue comes up. Great work on that.

[scottayy]

I have been under the assumption lately that everything is contaminated. With that mindset, it is easy to want to QT and take good measures to try and make sure nothing gets in your display.

[My Little Ocean]

Originally Posted by scottayy

I have been under the assumption lately that everything is contaminated. With that mindset, it is easy to want to QT and take good measures to try and make sure nothing gets in your display.

++1 to this, one can never be too careful in this hobby, quarantine is as important to having a tank to keep fish in my opinion

[My Little Ocean]

Originally Posted by Georgia

I think i may do this. Makes sense and will be drug free.

From the article

. The problem is, moving a fish from an infected tank to a clean tank is a proven cure. It is one of the variations on the daily water change method that I mentioned in my first article on Cryptocaryon irritans (Colorni, 1987). In that paper, Colorni describes moving an infected fish between two tanks. The tanks are cleaned and dried between uses, thereby ridding them of tomonts. He instructs to do this every three days for ten days. This is very similar to what happened with the Purple Tang. There should have been two more moves, but Cratylus got lucky with just the one.

I believe this is called the bounce effect but all it takes is one little bugger to be transferred and takes a lot of effort, hypo is the only way for ich and less stress on the fish. I think a fresh water bath with melafix before hypo in quarantine is a good way to go

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

Then thats what ill do. Im a paramedic damint i fix all!!!

Buying a new 10 gallon tmrw.

Going to set it up toss a shrimp in and pray.

Cycle cycle shake shake

And in they go.

What do i have to lose???

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

Update from the hubby. ( im at the station) he says the clown is fine the scooter is good but the gamma still seems stressed.

He said the hawkfish in the dt is not eating. Im mot sure why, water chem outstanding.

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

Originally Posted by cmor1701d

@Don, avoiding unknown water intro into your DT should always be on your mind. I follow a similar protocol for inverts after acclimating them. Not everything can be properly QT'd at home unless you have the space, money and time for it, so do the best you can.

@Georgia, your drawing makes me want to cut and paste from various articles and make a similar diagram I can post when this issue comes up. Great work on that.

Honey my drawings are Van Go!! Lol (spelling)

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

Originally Posted by cmor1701d

I believe you now understand the life cycle and why Hyposalinity is the safest cure, most natural cure.

I have a dozen corals that just completed a drip acclimation, they were removed and water was gently shaken off. They are now in a CoarlRx bath, to be followed by a double bath of tank water before going into the tank. This lowers the chance of bringing the Ich parasite into the DT to close to 0. Notice I did not say zero, as there is always some small chance. I would need to keep them in a separate frag tank for a month to make that happen. I just don't have the room for that.

When you say coralrx do you mean iodine dip?

[My Little Ocean]

Coral rx is a great product that gets rid of any parasites and such off corals with least amount of stress, great strategy to use before introducing to display

[Saltwaterfishgirl]

Originally Posted by My Little Ocean

Coral rx is a great product that gets rid of any parasites and such off corals with least amount of stress, great strategy to use before introducing to display

Interesting. What chemical properties does it have?

[My Little Ocean]

I believe they are all natural extracts no iodine which in turn less stress to corals, it works I use it myself a five to ten minute bath does the trick