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01-30-2012, 02:21 PM
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#21
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey
Uv and filters will not get rid of ich in a tank. A uv will kill whatever goes by it's light but thats it. the ich in the sand will still be there. :-(
If it were me I'd qt the fish and do hypo in that tank and leave the main tank without fish for 6-8 weeks to be sure it's really gone.
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That's what I want to do Carey I bought the uv to dwindle the population of free swimmers so I wanted to ask u Carey do I keep the fish under hypo for the whole 6-8 weeks or do I gradually raise the level till its back to normal but keep fish in the quarantine tank with normal salt levels till the ich in the display tank dies out...rather than having the fish under hypo for 8 weeks I was thinking more like 2 weeks then slowly over 2 weeks raise the salinity back to 1024....I asked If the Lfs would house my invertebrates do I could put my display tank under hypo so that way I don't need to move them...or in worse case I could move the non fish population to the 50 gal which I currently use as a reservoir for my auto top up....what advice do u recommend...don't wanna harm the rock
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01-30-2012, 02:23 PM
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#22
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Or should I keep them in hypo for 8 weeks but 1008 for 3 weeks then gradually raise it over 5 ...I have some beautifull fish I really wanna save them....,.i took your advice and took the regal back
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01-30-2012, 02:27 PM
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#23
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,651
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You read the info i linked so you know your fish will be fine in hypo for 8 weeks and you need to keep your tank fallow for that same period..I have done hypo on every fish i ever got and never lost one due to hyposalinity
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QTing is a good thing 
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01-30-2012, 02:29 PM
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#24
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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Yep, keeping the infected fish at the hypo salinity level should be fine.
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180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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01-30-2012, 02:30 PM
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#25
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTMMWS
You read the info i linked so you know your fish will be fine in hypo for 8 weeks and you need to keep your tank fallow for that same period..
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What do u mean when u say fallow sorry my friend I am quite new so don't know all the words proper....sorry
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01-30-2012, 02:31 PM
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#26
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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Fallow, no fish at all.
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180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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01-30-2012, 02:33 PM
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#27
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,651
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Your display tank has to remain empty ,no fish=fallow ..Inverts can stay and you do not need to put your main tank through hypo,just the fish..The ick will die off without a fish to host ..8 weeks is the key though..i would do the full 8 weeks fallow ,and 4 weeks of hypo at 1.008 then raise very slowly still keeping hypo conditions in QT for 3 more weeks
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QTing is a good thing 
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01-30-2012, 02:33 PM
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#28
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey
Fallow, no fish at all. 
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Man u guys rock I love u guys thank h so much .like in the info I think I should go to around 1012 for a decent margin of error ...cheers
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01-30-2012, 02:36 PM
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#29
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTMMWS
Your display tank has to remain empty ,no fish=fallow ..Inverts can stay and you do not need to put your main tank through hypo,just the fish..The ick will die off without a fish to host ..8 weeks is the key though..i would do the full 8 weeks fallow ,and 4 weeks of hypo at 1.008 then raise in QT
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Then raise it slowly over the course of the 4 remaining weeks? Gonna give it a go ..will admit an a bit scared but long as u guys are here Im sure I'll be fine ....so am I right in saying 1008 for 4 weeks then slowly raise it over 4 weeks while keeping the dt fallow....?
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01-30-2012, 02:37 PM
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#30
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistablitz
Man u guys rock I love u guys thank h so much .like in the info I think I should go to around 1012 for a decent margin of error ...cheers
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Why?Are you isolating your fish to a QT..I would do 1.008 which is what the info declares to be FULL hypo and no chance of ich surviving it
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01-30-2012, 02:38 PM
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#31
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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Yep looks like you got it.  Just make sure to adjust the salinity up/down slowly, not all in one day for instance. lol
Good luck!! if you need anything else just post, someone will always be around to help.
__________________
180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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01-30-2012, 02:41 PM
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#32
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTMMWS
Why?Are you isolating your fish to a QT..I would do 1.008 which is what the info declares to be FULL hypo and no chance of ich surviving it
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I have the option of isolation I quarantine but I think I should regime my 3 shrimp 4 snails and 8 hermits and do the hypo in the display tank for 8 weeks...I thought i read in the article that if u are doing it for the first time u maybe should go to 1010 for any margin of error but to be honest I know I can maintain the salinity at 1008 do u think I should just do it in the display tank and take out my inverts and put them in the 50 gal with a piece of live rock father than isolating the fish
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01-30-2012, 02:44 PM
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#33
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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Honestly i would take the fish out to hypo. You may harm your live rock and sand if you hypo the display tank. Also, are you using a hydrometer or a refractometer to measure salt level? The latter would be a great idea cause swing arms are notorious for being wrong and with hypo treatment you really really need to have accurate readings.  You can get a refractometer for like $30 so it's not that expensive.
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180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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01-30-2012, 02:44 PM
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#34
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Sorry that was meant to say re home the inverts to 50 gal
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01-30-2012, 02:46 PM
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#35
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,651
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Personally i would take the fish out..I know everyone talks about added stress ,but they have ick,so they are stressed anyway..Plus hypo puts them in a calmer relaxed state making it easier for them to breath ...Putting your whole DT through hypo "could" kill all your LR and LS...
EDIT: Carey beat me again 
And no you can not do proper hypo with a hydrometer ,you NEED a refractometer IMO/IME
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Currently rebuilding 
QTing is a good thing 
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01-30-2012, 02:50 PM
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#36
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey
Honestly i would take the fish out to hypo. You may harm your live rock and sand if you hypo the display tank. Also, are you using a hydrometer or a refractometer to measure salt level? The latter would be a great idea cause swing arms are notorious for being wrong and with hypo treatment you really really need to have accurate readings.  You can get a refractometer for like $30 so it's not that expensive.
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Yes I think u are right Carey and yes I use refractometer ..I will isolate the guys and do 4 weeks at 1008 then slowly raise it back over the course of the remaining 4 weeks in the info it says throw the fish straight into the lower salinity with a prior fresh water dip with no acclimation ...sound right to u?
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01-30-2012, 02:53 PM
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#37
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,651
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In your case i would use tank water to fill your QT and then lower it to 1.008 by tomorrow ...
Unless your fish are completely covered there is no reason for a FW dip
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Currently rebuilding 
QTing is a good thing 
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01-30-2012, 04:28 PM
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#38
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTMMWS
In your case i would use tank water to fill your QT and then lower it to 1.008 by tomorrow ...
Unless your fish are completely covered there is no reason for a FW dip
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I would really live to do it now but I need to go the store and get a heater and little filter.own a busy tattoo shop so only get 1 day off a week..I know I don't use lighting but does that mean they should be in total darkness or just natural light...and does feeding remain the same little and often ?
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01-30-2012, 04:39 PM
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#39
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SW REEF 20+ YEARS
Community Admin



Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Virginia
Posts: 39,128
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Moved to SW sick fish forum.
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01-30-2012, 04:54 PM
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#40
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
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Gonna buy the bits and do it all I will post my movements so to keep u guys aware of what's going on....thanks
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