What is ick and what does it look like?

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its small white patches on your fishes fins body !! im sure if ya go to your lfs and ask them they can show you a fish that has it !! all pet stores have a fish or three with ick somewhere :-(
 
depends on what fish, a tang which are very sensitive to getting ick wouldnt live long with it!! where a damsel being a bit hardier will live longer with it !! but thats shouldnt be your thoughts imo !! need to do what ever you can to get rid of it !! its easily done just take a bit of time and know how :)
 
Treatment for Cryptocarryon irritans and Amyloodinium occelatum:


1) Remove the fish to a quarantine/hospital tank
2) Add copper sulfate at a level of .15 - .20 ppm, maintain the level for 3 weeks, even if the fish appears to be better in a few days
3) In extreme cases, F/W dips (5-10 minutes) or formalin baths may be necessary to save the fish
4) Do not return the fish to the display tank until it has been parasite free for 3 weeks






A reliable copper test kit is required to maintain the proper copper level

Copper sulfate precipitates out of solution, fairly easily, additions will be necessary everyday or every other day

If you use a form of chealated copper, a chealated copper test kit will be required



There are many other forms of treatment for ick or velvet these days. I have had success and failure with some of them. Copper is the only treatment that has been consistently effective, in my experience. Copper is the treatment I recommend, copper sulfate in particular, because it seems to work a little bit quicker.

Other methods I’ve tried with limited success and some failure:


1) Stop parasites (pepper solution, advertised reef safe)
2) Formalin (tank treatment and baths)
3) No Ick (increases slime coat production, advertised reef safe)
4) F/W dips
5) Hypo salinity (lowering the specific gravity below 1.015 for an extended period of time)
 
scuba_steve said:
5) Hypo salinity (lowering the specific gravity below 1.015 for an extended period of time)
This will not be an effective level when treating with hyposalinity. 1.009 SG or preferabley 14 ppt measured with a refractometer will be much more effective and still be safe for the fish.

FWIW, you may also wish to look into the use of chelated copper as apposed to copper sulphate (ionic copper) if you are sold on the use of copper. It is more tolerated by the fish and will be less likely to cause a loss in feeding response. Keep in mind prolonged use of copper can cause internal damage. Hyposalinity will not be a concern and is the least stressful treatment when dealing with protazoan problems when performed properly.

Cheers
Steve
 
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