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01-11-2011, 09:49 PM
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#21
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 616
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Don't worry about the fog too much at this point - it is likely sediment stirred up by the water changes and will settle/be filtered out.
Very important: Leave your filter alone and don't remove or change the cartridges. The bacteria are there and need to grow to process the ammonia your fish produce.
Don't worry about minerals, just be sure to use dechlorinator.
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01-11-2011, 09:57 PM
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#22
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Posts: 7,074
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+1, don't mess with the filter media.
I still recommend the Prime.
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~Darby
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01-11-2011, 10:23 PM
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#23
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkpate
+1, don't mess with the filter media.
I still recommend the Prime.
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ill be getting all new chemicals tomorrow. and ill be back. thanks again
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01-11-2011, 10:26 PM
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#24
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbheternal
ill be getting all new chemicals tomorrow. and ill be back. thanks again
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is it a bad thing that i already changed my carbon bag it was getting old. just over a month. oops. well at least im learning. with some help we will beat this problem.
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01-11-2011, 10:32 PM
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#25
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Posts: 7,074
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You can remove the carbon, just leave the floss or whatever it's called (the blue or white stuff). You might have caused the cycle to restart by removing the good bacteria. There should still be some on the decor, in the substrate and inside the filter, it's the brownish slimy stuff.
You only need to replace the media if you need new carbon to remove meds or it's falling apart.
The cloudiness in the tank could also be a bacterial bloom, which would probably be a good thing.
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~Darby
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01-11-2011, 10:33 PM
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#26
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 2,292
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+1 for not use of the Ammolock. That thing doesn't work at all. Don't use it, will have more negative effects than make any good.
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01-11-2011, 11:23 PM
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#27
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejaramillo01
+1 for not use of the Ammolock. That thing doesn't work at all. Don't use it, will have more negative effects than make any good.
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i already tossed the ammo lock. stuff. im bummed the tank looked so good up untill yesterday.
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01-12-2011, 10:38 AM
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#28
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbheternal
i already tossed the ammo lock. stuff. im bummed the tank looked so good up untill yesterday.
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here is another question. i was noticing. my chems are API. my test card for ammonia goes from. white to yellow. but on youtube. everyones card goes from yellow to green. is my card out of date????
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01-12-2011, 02:00 PM
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#29
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fort384
According to what? Many people here do 50%+ water changes always, not just during cycling. What "minerals" are you adding?
According to what? Ammonia might be less toxic at lower pH values, but it is still toxic.
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I using RO conditioner and Discus Trace
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01-12-2011, 04:31 PM
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#30
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tad
I using RO conditioner and Discus Trace
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i jusy bought Prime water cobditioner. is that enough?
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01-12-2011, 04:40 PM
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#31
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Posts: 7,074
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Yes, Prime is good. You will still get ammonia and nitrite readings, but remember the Prime makes them non toxic for the fish. You will still need to do water changes though, since Prime only binds to those for a while.
My API cards are the same as yours, and they are just different, they shouldn't be outdated. There should be somewhere on the box where you can check and see if they are.
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~Darby
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01-12-2011, 04:59 PM
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#32
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 128
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If it were me, I would Keep changing it 50% every few hours until it reads "0". Once it reads 0, check it again tomorrow and do the same thing. I'm no pro, but I know any level of ammonia can kill fish quickly.
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Mary-
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01-12-2011, 05:17 PM
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#33
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadylady23
If it were me, I would Keep changing it 50% every few hours until it reads "0". Once it reads 0, check it again tomorrow and do the same thing. I'm no pro, but I know any level of ammonia can kill fish quickly.
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i did another 50% PWC and i'll do a few more. we seem to be winning the battel. ye ha.  . i'm excited.
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01-12-2011, 05:19 PM
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#34
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbheternal
i did another 50% PWC and i'll do a few more. we seem to be winning the battel. ye ha.  . i'm excited.
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i found a API master test kit for 90$. on sale from 130$. i'm gonna get it. go big or go home eh?
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01-12-2011, 06:53 PM
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#35
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Posts: 7,074
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Holy cow!!! That is SO expensive! I thought I got ripped off having to pay $50.
Can you get shipments from these guys?
Aquarium Water Testing: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit
As long as the ammonia and nitrites stay below .25, you should be good. You have to have some ammonia to feed the nitrites and then the nitrates so your tank can cycle.
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~Darby
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01-12-2011, 07:09 PM
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#36
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkpate
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this kit is huge. comes in a small suit case. does fresh and salt. witch i do wanna do. some day. i'll keep looking around. i think the tank is doing good now. not out of the woods yet.
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01-12-2011, 08:05 PM
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#37
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Dividing by 0
Community Admin



Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 13,932
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Keep in mind, these tests expire, so if you aren't going to use them all up in the next couple of years, it is probably not a good investment. Expired test kits often give funky, inaccurate test results.
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01-12-2011, 08:29 PM
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#38
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Aquarium Advice Addict



Join Date: May 2005
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 17,107
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Agreed, the kits do expire. You can get a FW master kit at bigalsonline for usually under $20.
The whitish hue to the water will go away soon, it is a bacterial bloom caused by the cycling of your tank. It will look good again soon!
Kudos for keeping at it and trying so hard for your fish.
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01-13-2011, 12:24 AM
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#39
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zagz
Agreed, the kits do expire. You can get a FW master kit at bigalsonline for usually under $20.
The whitish hue to the water will go away soon, it is a bacterial bloom caused by the cycling of your tank. It will look good again soon!
Kudos for keeping at it and trying so hard for your fish.
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ya was thinking. that kit is too much stuff. overkill. thanks again everyone. greatly appreciated. will give an update tomorrow. cheers
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01-13-2011, 09:32 PM
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#40
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Abbotsford B.C Canada
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbheternal
ya was thinking. that kit is too much stuff. overkill. thanks again everyone. greatly appreciated. will give an update tomorrow. cheers
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ok folks. all those water changes did the trick. tank is almost crystal clear again. and the ammonia is .5 - 1 . looks like im in the clear. thanks to everyone for all the support , and guidence. you're good people.
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