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Old 05-10-2015, 08:43 PM   #1
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Can't keep fish healthy

Hello all ive been around here for a few months and i love reading nearly all the post to try to learn all i can. Right now im having problems with my tank. I've had the tank since Oct of 2014. Its a 20 gallon tall stocked with 3 RCS, 3(2) mollies 1 is in QT tank not getting any better. Ever since i bought it i cant keep fish alive for long; at first it was new tank syndrome but after reading up on that i did a fishless cycle in about 28 days with the HOB.

In December i bought a new canister filter and ran the filter with the old HOB one. I use to use tap water for PWC with conditioner/stress coat every time, but now i use only deer park spring water every change. By now i would expect the water to be 100% cycled and safe for the fish.

pH-7.6
high pH-7.4
Ammonia-0.25
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-40
Filter is Marineland C-160

I can change the water and my Nitrates and ammonia don't go down too much, as well as changing water i have moss in the tank so shouldnt that bring my nitrates down too? I do not use any firts because of the RCS, and it can cause swings too.

Could tank temp changes cause things to go crazy, i have the hottest room in the house so this could be a reason too.

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Old 05-10-2015, 10:05 PM   #2
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Your Ammonia should be "0" and your nitrates should be 20 ppm or less. You need to change 50% of your tank water. I change 50% every week in mine.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:31 PM   #3
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I change 10%, is 50% really needed? If that's a must I'd have to go back to use tap water. I just don't trust tap water even with conditioning.

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Old 05-11-2015, 06:46 AM   #4
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Tap water + water conditioner is fine...and yes, 50% is an ideal PWC: especially since your ammonia and nitrates are high.


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Old 05-11-2015, 06:53 AM   #5
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Not everyone changes 50%. It's not required. What is highly suggested is keeping nitrates under 20ppm. You base your water changes on that. If 10% keeps them under 20ppm so be it. If it takes more then do more. 50% a week is common on here though.


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Old 05-11-2015, 06:54 AM   #6
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I'd go for a larger water change as well (temp matched). Your tank looks cycled but the ammonia doesn't look right for a cycled tank.

Have you tested the tap water and looked at water reports? Tap water can spike off but generally should be ok. Odd readings such as for ph might indicate a problem otherwise a good water conditioner with tap water should be fine. Wondering what issues you were seeing there?

What is tank temp? Rapid increases in tank temp or high tank temps can cause bacterial infections. Rapid decreases in tank temp (eg from cold water in pwc) can cause fungal infections. These bacteria/fungus are always in the water but aren't a problem until fish get stressed.
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:10 AM   #7
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I don't use tap water at all I don't trust it. If I need to do 50% I have no choice now. API conditioner enough for it?

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Old 05-11-2015, 10:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irdajoh View Post
I don't use tap water at all I don't trust it. If I need to do 50% I have no choice now. API conditioner enough for it?

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That's fair enough. Kind of hard to suggest options without tap water test results or some details on why it isn't trust worthy? Our tap water here regularly varies between summer and winter so I can understand your concern.

I've copied in a link below on seachem safe/prime as an example of a good water conditioner.

Sometimes tap water can be high in ammonia or metals. A really good water conditioner will remove heavy metals, detoxify chlorine/ammonia/etc and not cost too much.

Sitting in bed but pretty sure I have API water conditioner. Great product but I also have seachem safe which I consider does a few things extra.


http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Safe.html


http://www.seachem.com/Products/prod...ges/Prime.html
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:11 AM   #9
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I'm at work this moment so I can't test the tap. I did it a while ago and I know the ammoina was 0. The tap isn't hard either and I believe 7.0 pH. I'm going to invest in a syphon 25 ft ro make tap water change easy. Would I does the conditioner as the water goes in or after since I won't be using a bucket any more.

I'll get my girlfriend to test tap since she's off.

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Old 05-11-2015, 10:36 AM   #10
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Treat for the size of the tank while filling.

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Old 05-12-2015, 06:05 AM   #11
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Tap water shouldn't have any ammonia in it. Try cleaning your filter media in old tankwater when you do a waterchange this will help bring nitrates down. If your ammonia is at 0.25 you need to do over 25% waterchange to bring it to 0. 10% will still give you an ammonia reading. I recommend 50% weekly changes personally this has worked for me.

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Old 05-12-2015, 08:11 PM   #12
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There is ammoina in the tap water, and the pH is not normal to me.
Tank test today is 7.6 pH, 7.8 high pH, ammoina looked like 0 but could of been 0.25 , nitrite 0, nitrate 20-40

Tap
PH-7.6+
High ph- 8.0
Ammoina-0.50-1.0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-5.0


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Old 05-12-2015, 08:20 PM   #13
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Wait a sec- what are you adding instead of tap water?
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:36 PM   #14
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Deep park spring water

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Old 05-13-2015, 10:37 AM   #15
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Hmm.... I don't think that would cause an issue.
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:41 AM   #16
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Exactly. I am very paranoid about tap water, as posted above I don't think it's safe since there is ammoina in it. But I'll try prime instead of api conditioner. And changing 50% was a pain for me so I didn't do 50 but 10/25; now I have a 25 ft syphon faucet set so it's cake. Hopefully this will solve problems.
Now I must think of what to do with a 45 g tall I'm receiving from a friend....

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