Carbon filter/ unhealthy fish?

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ginty

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Jan 20, 2014
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Hi guys.

Ive added some anti-internal bacteria to my tank because my water is all ok. Ammonia 0. Nitrite 0
And nitrate 40. Ph is 7.5.
Ive lost 2 fish this week. They had no signs of illness then all of a sudden acting very fragile and struggling to swim properly. But no visible signs illness or spots, burns or fin rot.
I took the advice of someone and added this.
It says add a bit every other day. When do i add the carbon to remove medications and then when is it safe to remove the carbon. People have advised me to only use carbon to remove medications as it can be very expensive to keep.


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Hi guys.

Ive added some anti-internal bacteria to my tank because my water is all ok. Ammonia 0. Nitrite 0
And nitrate 40. Ph is 7.5.
Ive lost 2 fish this week. They had no signs of illness then all of a sudden acting very fragile and struggling to swim properly. But no visible signs illness or spots, burns or fin rot.
I took the advice of someone and added this.
It says add a bit every other day. When do i add the carbon to remove medications and then when is it safe to remove the carbon. People have advised me to only use carbon to remove medications as it can be very expensive to keep.


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If I understand correctly - you would add the carbon after treatment is finished. I usually time it for next water change around 3 days later but that is just me. What is the med?

Between water changes and carbon sometimes it can take 2 to 3 weeks to clear something like malachite green from the water but I'm happy to just dilute it down gradually.

Carbon will improve water clarity and remove organics from the water. So quite useful as a fine filter.

The main issue with carbon ( apart from cost) is that after several weeks it starts to grow good bacteria. So when it is exhausted after say 4 weeks and replaced, you may be throwing out part of your bb unless you running carbon in a second filter (which I do off and on).
 
Ive added some anti-internal bacteria to my tank because my water is all ok. Ammonia 0. Nitrite 0
And nitrate 40. Ph is 7.5.
Ive lost 2 fish this week. They had no signs of illness then all of a sudden acting very fragile and struggling to swim properly. But no visible signs illness or spots, burns or fin rot.
I took the advice of someone and added this.

Dela is right about carbon. I only use it to remove meds from the water column, but I usually don't remove it for quite awhile, just because it is still useful as a media for BB.

What is anti-internal bacteria? And why did this person recommend you use it on an otherwise healthy tank?
 
Dela is right about carbon. I only use it to remove meds from the water column, but I usually don't remove it for quite awhile, just because it is still useful as a media for BB.

What is anti-internal bacteria? And why did this person recommend you use it on an otherwise healthy tank?

Because i lost 3 fish in two weeks.i noticed a bit of pooh in the tank that was a creamy, yellowish colour. The fish that died were acting very fragile. It was as if the were tired. Struggling to swim to the top. There was no spots or redness or obvious signs they were ill.

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Because i lost 3 fish in two weeks.i noticed a bit of pooh in the tank that was a creamy, yellowish colour. The fish that died were acting very fragile. It was as if the were tired. Struggling to swim to the top. There was no spots or redness or obvious signs they were ill.

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Creamy/yellowish poo is a clear sign of problems. As well as struggling to swim. Some kind of parasite.
Have you gotten any new fish or plants lately ? If so, did you follow a good QT practice (doesn't sound it) and what's your WC schedule ?

Edit : Nobody else has touched on it, but 40 nitrates seems a bit high. So that goes back to my WC question again.
 
Creamy/yellowish poo is a clear sign of problems. As well as struggling to swim. Some kind of parasite.
Have you gotten any new fish or plants lately ? If so, did you follow a good QT practice (doesn't sound it) and what's your WC schedule ?

Edit : Nobody else has touched on it, but 40 nitrates seems a bit high. So that goes back to my WC question again.

I got new fish about 3months ago and ive had problems fot about a month, on and off.
As for qt. I didnt have two tanks. And i was planning on selling my 30litre once my 110litre has cycled. I dont have room for two tanks.
Please explain good QT practise? if i did have two tanks how would i keep beneficial bacteria in an old tank without fish in it??

And also how can i get nitrates down when my tap water is 30? If you say plants, could you tell me easy and long lasting ones?

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I got new fish about 3months ago and ive had problems fot about a month, on and off.
As for qt. I didnt have two tanks. And i was planning on selling my 30litre once my 110litre has cycled. I dont have room for two tanks.
Please explain good QT practise? if i did have two tanks how would i keep beneficial bacteria in an old tank without fish in it??

And also how can i get nitrates down when my tap water is 30? If you say plants, could you tell me easy and long lasting ones?

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Technically, it doesn't need to be running all the time. Most will put a small, additional sponge filter in their existing aquarium so when the time comes, it's ready to go. Just add heater, sponge, some existing water from current tank and treated new water and your good to go.

It will be good that your upgrading to the 110l. That's almost quadruple your existing tank ??. The fish will love it for sure !!!

I would suggest your thought (plants) to try and lower it. Those could consist of Water Wisteria, Java Moss, Lilaeopsis, (grass like plant) Amazon Sword, Anubias Nana, just to name a few.

Out of curiosity, what/how many fish do you currently have and what is your WC schedule ?
 
Technically, it doesn't need to be running all the time. Most will put a small, additional sponge filter in their existing aquarium so when the time comes, it's ready to go. Just add heater, sponge, some existing water from current tank and treated new water and your good to go.

It will be good that your upgrading to the 110l. That's almost quadruple your existing tank ??. The fish will love it for sure !!!

I would suggest your thought (plants) to try and lower it. Those could consist of Water Wisteria, Java Moss, Lilaeopsis, (grass like plant) Amazon Sword, Anubias Nana, just to name a few.

Out of curiosity, what/how many fish do you currently have and what is your WC schedule ?

What do they just leave the sponge filter (internal filter?) in their proper tank for a couple of hours to build up BB?
Also i have to get rid of my old 30litre tank once 110litre tank is ready. I could get a small plastic tank that wont take up too much room. Would that be suitable just for adding new fish and hospitalising sick fish?

I have 5 guppys and two platties. One of the platties is a baby and is in a breeding box in the tank. I do water changes every thursday, because i am trying my best to lower nitrate levels.
Thankyou for your reply.

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What do they just leave the sponge filter (internal filter?) in their proper tank for a couple of hours to build up BB?
Also i have to get rid of my old 30litre tank once 110litre tank is ready. I could get a small plastic tank that wont take up too much room. Would that be suitable just for adding new fish and hospitalising sick fish?

I have 5 guppys and two platties. One of the platties is a baby and is in a breeding box in the tank. I do water changes every thursday, because i am trying my best to lower nitrate levels.
Thankyou for your reply.

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Yes it would be an internal filter but it would need to be in there much longer than just a few hours. The ones I know of leave it in there permanently since they take up very little room.

I'm not sure what you're referring to as far as size with a "small plastic tank" but IMO, I don't think it should be less than 30 liters. Since you have smaller fish it could work, but mine are much larger and I use either a 20, 30, or 40g for my QT, depending on the # of fish I buy at one time.

These are the filters I was talking about.
ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1401021241.936267.jpg
 
Yes it would be an internal filter but it would need to be in there much longer than just a few hours. The ones I know of leave it in there permanently since they take up very little room.

I'm not sure what you're referring to as far as size with a "small plastic tank" but IMO, I don't think it should be less than 30 liters. Since you have smaller fish it could work, but mine are much larger and I use either a 20, 30, or 40g for my QT, depending on the # of fish I buy at one time.

These are the filters I was talking about.
View attachment 238360

Oh ok. Maybe ill try and talk the missus around to keeping the little tank. ;) lol
Do you know what the name of these filters are please so i can search for them and how much they cost?
On a good note. My 110litre has finished cycling. I had 0 ammonia. 0nitrite and 40 nitrate. Ive done a 30 to 40% water change and ive added 3 plants. Ive added three danios and im going to leave them in there for a couple of weeks to see how they get on. Then gradually add my other stock slowly.

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Those are just sponge filters. I see them anywhere between $6 and $20 depending on where at and what size.

I'm wondering what happened to box filters. You can throw a handful of gravel from your main tank and accelerate the cycle drastically. :)

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Those are just sponge filters. I see them anywhere between $6 and $20 depending on where at and what size.

I'm wondering what happened to box filters. You can throw a handful of gravel from your main tank and accelerate the cycle drastically. :)

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I only no the very basics. All these different types of filters are all new to me. Im still learning every day. So any help and advice is welcomed.

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No problem in asking. Now that you have heard something new, Google. ;)

Also if you want to fudge, bacteria in a bottle can be used. :)

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