Goldfish lying on bottom of tank

[ssabina]

Hi,

I'm really worried about my goldfish. For the past two days, I noticed he was swimming weird (as if his tail was dragging him down), and now he's just lying on the bottom of the tank. ​​He will swim up occasionally, if he thinks there's food, and he breathes regularly. He shows no other signs of disease (no spots, no red streaks, no bloated tummy).

He's the only goldfish in a 20 gallon tank.
I haven't introduced anything new to the tank (no plants, no new fish, no decorations), everything is "business as usual".
We replenish the water about every 2-3 weeks, about 20% of the tank. I treat the new water with 1 teaspoon Seachem Neutral Regulator + 1 teaspoon Seachem Discus buffer (adjusts ph to 5.8-6.8).
We have an automatic fish feeder that delivers a pinch of goldfish flakes (Tetrafin brand) in the morning, once per day.
The aquarium has a bubble system, and a heater set to 76F.

I did the water tests right now using an API test kit.
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 60. This seems a bit high, but my understanding is it's a lot less damaging than high ammonia or nitrites.

Today, I added 4 teaspoons of aquarium salt and a few drops of Prime as an emergency measure, and increased the heater temp to 79F. I also stopped the automatic feeder and will give him some frozen peas in a day.

Is there anything else I can do? He looks really miserable and I'm very worried about losing him.
Thank you, really appreciate advice on this.

 

[ssabina]

Attaching picture of fish here.

Forgot to mention, ph is in ~7.4. The fish is 3.5 years old, and the aquarium has been steady for a year.

 

[absolutangel04]

I do not have much knowledge about goldfish in particular, so I can only comment on some of this. I will still try and help you out until more people come along.
First off, 60ppm nitrates is high. Probably too high. You are correct that it is less toxic than ammonia and nitrite, but exposure to high nitrates over time is still bad for fish. I would say a good place to start is to get your parameters improved a bit by doing some additional water changes. People often do more like 50% every week top keep nitrates down. You only have 1 fish in a 20g tank, so you may not need as strenuous of a schedule as some people do, but I would aim to keep your nitrates under about 20 if you can. I have seen fish react to nitrates often starting around 40ppm, so a reaction to 60 ppm would not be unheard of.
A few drops of prime will not help anything. Prime can temporarily help your parameters, but you need to put in a full dose of it. Rather than doing that, I would just do some extra water changes with prime over the next few days and look for improvements.
Those automatic feeders malfunction pretty easily. You said you are not using it right now, and I think that is good. They can cause some harm in tanks by messing up and dumping food into your tank.
It sounds like your goldy is having bouyancy problems. Food impaction could be a potential cause of this, or some sort of bacterial issue could be going on. The pea treatment is a good idea. Peas and clean water. Some people also do an epsom salt bath for trying to clear an impaction, though it is not something I have tried before.

 

[em1981ma]

From the picture it looks like the tank could do with a good clean. No offense intended. There is alot of brown algae dotted on glass this can inhibit oxgyen if too much off it. He is a big fish he needs weekly water changes 35% I would say.

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[em1981ma]

Quick measures clean the glass of the tank. No cleaning products just get a new unused scourer to wipe it off. Clean the gravel. If you don't have a gravel cleaner use your hands to mix up the gravel and use fish net to scoop it out. Clean filter media sponges in old and tank water. Wash all algae off ornament. Feed manually and do a 50% waterchange

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[absolutangel04]

I don't think that is anywhere enough algae to inhibit oxygen in the tank. I highly doubt that is the issue. If it was, the fish would be gasping and the OP said it was breathing normally. It takes a lot of algae to inhibit the oxygen in any tank, and especially in a tank with 1 fish, and a bubbler.

 

[Coursair]

Big water change. Turn down heater gradually. Like 1 degree a day. The warmer the water, the LESS oxygen.

Clean water is the most important. Keep doing water changes with temperature matched , conditioned water, until Nitrates are 20.

Do NOT increase temp. Goldfish are Coldwater Fish.

Don't use a feeder. Don't feed until you get water back on track. The fish won't starve. I see you stopped using it.

Frozen/thawed/de shelled Peas are good.

Please read up on Goldfish Care.

This Sticky has some info that will apply to your fish as well.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...uire-big-tanks-visual-perspective-265871.html

I really hope you can save your fish.
If you do, consider a larger tank with more filtration. Goldfish (GF) normally need 4x recommended filtration. So if you have a 20g tank you want a filter rated for 80g tank.


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[Fishfur]

Just curious, what are the usual parameters of your tap water, nothing added to it ?

And I'd be doing a lot more water changes.. once weekly at least. I know it's only one fish, but it looks to be a fair size, goldies are a very dirty fish compared to most other fish,
[ except plecs ], and sparkling clean water is always a good thing.

Algae is a plant, it makes oxygen during the day, so I'm also curious why anyone thinks algae robs water of oxygen ? Unless the water is stagnant, in which case, the lack of movement has prevented gas exchange from happening as it should, and that's not because of algae.

Edit.. true, warmer water holds less oxygen than colder water, but with the air stone going, gas exchange should still be ok.. reducing temp is a very good idea though, they're not tropical fish.

 

[em1981ma]

Green algae doesn't inhibit oxygen but the brown kind does.

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[em1981ma]

A little info about brown algae


Brown Aquarium Algae

Brown Algae.* Kai Schreiber
Share
By Shirlie Sharpe
Other Names: Gravel algae, Silica algae

Color: Brown

Appearance
Brown algae begins as brown patches on the gravel and/or glass, then rapidly coats most surfaces of the aquarium with a thin, dark brown coating that is easily removed. Unlike blue-green/slime algae, it does not come off in large slimy sheets.

Cause

Excess silicates & nitrates
Inadequate light
Low oxygen levels
Brown algae is a common occurrence in a newly set up aquarium. It is generally caused by too little light, an excess of silicates, an abundance of nutrients, and too little oxygen. Silicates can build up through tap water that is high in silicic acid, and silicates that leech from some types of

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[em1981ma]

Your nitrates are high this s causing the brown algae, water quality will not be good if there is visual dirt ie brown algae. So water changing without cleaning the actual tank is pointless.

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[Coursair]

Your nitrates are high this s causing the brown algae, water quality will not be good if there is visual dirt ie brown algae. So water changing without cleaning the actual tank is pointless.

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That's not true. The Algae is indicative of Silicates or lower oxygen. It's not CAUSING less oxygen. It's a sign, not a cause.

Worry about water first. Then you can deal with maintenance. Plus the Algae may reduce gradually due to better water conditions. Or at least not increase.

Also put light on a timer so it's only on 6-8 hours a day.


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[Fishfur]

That makes much more sense !

 

[em1981ma]

The point I'm trying to get across is you can't expect your water quality to be good if the tank is visually dirty.

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[em1981ma]

That's not true. The Algae is indicative of Silicates or lower oxygen. It's not CAUSING less oxygen. It's a sign, not a cause.

Worry about water first. Then you can deal with maintenance. Plus the Algae may reduce gradually due to better water conditions. Or at least not increase.

Also put light on a timer so it's only on 6-8 hours a day.


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Yes a sign of low oxygen you are correct. But I would change water and clean tank at same time. It can only help

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[Fatboyfish]

Aside from everyone fighting like apes over cleaning the tank. Step one should be a 50% water change. If you care about the well being of this animal as it seems you do. Please try and siphon the gravel and do at least a 20% wc weekly.

Like most said get those nitrates down.

 

[ppo8820]

First off, you need to change the water right now. I would do at LEAST a 70% water change.Thats a LOT of Nitrates and is making him sick and sluggish. You never really want Nitrates over 20 in my opinion. Also, he doesnt need the temp at 76, its a little hot for a coldwater species such as a gold fish. Start by doing a huge water change and vacuuming the bottom. Then I would ditch the bubble system as gold fish are dirty and need good filters, especially in a smaller tank. Id get an aquaclear 50, or at the least a 30.

More water changes, less heat, and more filtration. They are hardy, but he doesnt look good at ALL! They are pretty resilient, so hopefully if you do all I said, he can make a comeback. If not, you need to take my advice if you plan on getting another goldfish.

 

[ppo8820]

Also ditch the PH buffer. PH is overrated and most fish can tolerate a steady PH at whatever your tap water provides. All you need is a good dechlorinator..........I suggest prime by Seachem. No more messing with PH as it can swing wildly and that stresses fish way more than a constant high ph that stays steady.

 

[Fatboyfish]

Also ditch the PH buffer. PH is overrated and most fish can tolerate a steady PH at whatever your tap water provides. All you need is a good dechlorinator..........I suggest prime by Seachem. No more messing with PH as it can swing wildly and that stresses fish way more than a constant high ph that stays steady.

+1 agreed

 

[ssabina]

Thank you

Hi everyone,

Thank you for the advice, really appreciate the quick replies. I did the water changes as suggested and tried the pea feeding, but I was too late. Sadly, my goldfish died yesterday evening. He was a great pet and I will miss him.