Platy is dying ?

[Ally88]

Please help!
I’m new to fish keeping and my platy is staying at the bottom of the tank hiding and clamping his fins down! If he’s disturbed, he’ll come to the surface and swim frantically up there. He’s still eating though.
Can I still save him??

 

[pwypGlofish]

Don’t worry Ally88, in Aquarium Advice we will make the strongest effort to save your platy, I just need you to answer these questions in order to know exactly what’s afflicting your pet! (These are from Menangerie)


1~What type of fish is afflicted? In addition, please describe what is wrong with the fish to the best of your ability (i.e. cotton like growth, bloated, etc.).
2~What are your tank parameters (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, temp, pH)? Please give exact values.
3~ How large is the tank? How long has the tank been set up?
4~What type of filtration are you using? Please give the name and number (i.e. Fluval 304) and amount of gph if known.
5~How many fish are in the tank? What kinds of fish are they and what are their current sizes?
6~When is the last time you did a water change and vacuum the gravel? How often do you do this? How much water do you remove at a time?
7~How long have you had the fish? If the fish is new, how did you acclimate it/them?
8~Have you added anything new to the tank--decor, new dechlorinator, new substrate, etc.?
9~What kind of food have you been feeding your fish, have you changed their diet recently?

After you answer these questions and send a photo of your fish in the post, we will be able to know what’s happening and help you out

 

[Ally88]

I’ll answer these to the best of my knowledge ?

1) He’s a Platy Tricolor. I can’t get too much of a look at him because he hides in the back behind everything and when he comes out, he moves super quickly. I haven’t seen any physical changes except for his clamped fins and breathing more heavily.

2) I don’t have the exact levels (to be honest, I don’t know how to get those) but I do use strip tests and I everything came back normal and in the “safe” zones. I keep the temperature at 80 and have a heater and thermometer to keep track that it’s working properly.

3) My tank is a 10 gallon, it’s been about two weeks set up now. I did use a solution to do a cycle that was for a week prior to getting any fish and tested it with the strips and that appeared to be in the safe zones too.

4) I use the filter that came with the tank, it’s a PF-S top fin small silent stream cartridges, that’s all the info I have for it.

5) I currently have 6 fish. 3 Molly’s and 3 Platys. Two of the platys are quite small and two of the Molly’s look like they still could have some growing to do.

6) I did a water change last night actually, it was the first one. I changed roughly like 30% water because I’m also trying to treat the water with Lifeguard all in one treatment to see if it will help my babies.

7) I got the fish in sets of 3, one week apart like the guy at the store said to do. The sick platy is from the first batch. I was told to leave the fish in the bags and float them in the tank water and poke 3 tooth pick sized holes and let them sit for 50 minutes before letting them out and into the tank.

8) All the deco was from the tank set up in the very beginning. I have used a water conditioner to take away chlorine in the beginning and when I did the water change nuts nutrafin aqua plus.

9) I’ve been feeding them once every other day and I give them some Tropical Supervit flakes that the store picked out for me.

I hope this is enough information!!

 

[Aiken Drum]

You havent cycled the tank.

Putting some solution in the tank, waiting a week and then adding fish wont cycle a tank despite what it says on the bottle of solution you added.

Can you report the test results that you have? Saying safe zone doesnt tell us anything. I can test water straight out of the tap and it will look like it is safe, but it will tell you nothing about whether the tank is cycled and able to maintain safe parameters.

Im also assuming as you are using strips you dont have a test for ammonia.

First action should be a big water change, 50%.

 

[Ally88]

I’m still learning and trying my best, that’s why I created this account and reaching out. It’s my first tank.
The test strips test for ph, hard and softness, chlorine, alkaline, nitrates and nitrites. I don’t have it in front of me at the moment, but I don’t think it tests for ammonia. The strips only go by zones. At least the ones I have. My chlorine level says zero (safe) , nitrates and nitrites are “ideal” according to the chart. Do you recommend a more accurate test I can find?
I want my lil guys to be the best shape they can be.
I’ve always read not to do a water change too high. Only saw that 10% to 30% is ideal, so that’s what I did. I really am trying.

I do know tap water isn’t safe. I won’t even drink it without it being filtered.

 

[Aiken Drum]

Its ok to still be learning and its ok to make mistakes. Everyone has been where you are and everyone will make mistakes in the future, no matter how experienced they are.

Liquid tests are generally considered more accurate than strips. They are certainly easier to read and more cost effective long run. You need to get a test for ammonia. There are seperate strips you can buy. If you wanted a liquid test kit, then API master test kit covers the basics. pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

When you can get your test results, please report them, when you can test for ammonia then report that too. Ammonia will be the first indication of something being wrong that can be detected through a test.

Big water changes arent a problem if done correctly. As long as the water temperature you add is in the ballpark of your aquarium water, 50% water changes shouldn't be a problem. If you are worried then do 2 x 30% changes a few hours apart. Big water changes will be less stressful than living in toxic water.

Until you are able to test for ammonia i would do 25% water changes every day, but start with 50%. It can take several weeks to establish your cycle at which point your tank can maintain 0 ammonia and nitrite on its own. Nitrate is much, much less harmful and is removed through your water changes.

This is a good video that explains the nitrogen cycle if you want to learn more about it.

https://youtu.be/qMk_SfR0CuU

Edit: Make sure you use water conditioner with every water change.

 

[Ally88]

Thank you so much ��. I’ll look up that kit now and see if it’s available to order near me.

I’ll do another one today, a higher water change.

I really hope he’ll be okay by the time I get the more accurate tests ��. I’m absolutely heartbroken that he’s not going well and could pass away any moment. I don’t want to fail them.

 

[Ally88]

It’s been ordered now.

 

[Aiken Drum]

Doing the water changes will be a big help, ensuring that water parameters are good until you can confirm whether they are an issue or not.

I would go as far as to say the majority of peoples first posts on this forum can be resolved by doing some water changes to get water parameters safe and then cycling the tank in a controlled manner.

Another thing to add. Do you have good surface agitation of the water? Either through your filter or a bubbler? This will ensure there is plenty of oxygen in the water.

 

[Ally88]

I know it’s a shot in the dark, but would you assume the ammonia would be the likely problem?

I do! My tank has a bubble wall in the back.

Those tablets from the treatment require the filter pad to be taken out. I hope that won’t cause any further issues for my little friends

 

[Aiken Drum]

You didnt really do anything to promote your cycle, so it wont have established. You need to do water changes to control waste while doing a fish in cycle, like daily. You wasnt doing these. You have a lot of bioload (fish) in a small tank (typically 1 small fish/10 gallons to start a safe fish in cycle), so a lot of waste in a small volume of water. You are saying the water parameters you have been able to read are "safe" which tells me no ammonia is being processed out otherwise you would have seen some nitrite. So, while i can't say 100% that ammonia is the issue, it's the most likely cause.

What is the treatment you are using? I missed that.

Have a read through these couple of posts (same issue, they got a bit mixed up in 2 threads). Just goes to show what water changes and getting a safe environment can achieve.

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377366


Please help my black moor

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377379


Hello! Please help!

 

[Ally88]

Ohh okay. Would it be cycling now then if they solution didn’t work?

Today would be my third day of treatment, it’s a five day treatment. It’s Lifeguard all in one. I’ll include a picture. It says on the back that it’s a good prevention for adding new fish too

 

[Aiken Drum]

Not a product ive used, but a brief interweb search says it can effect your cycle. Ie the antibacterial properties it has might also kill off the beneficial bacteria responsible for your cycle.

You took the filter cartridge out while you are treating? Its really only necessary to remove the carbon.

Personally, i would stop using it. But, as you are 3 days into a 5 day treatment perhaps finish the treatment, get the filter properly set up again and then work on your cycle. Still do the water changes though.

 

[SteffeyJ]

Does this treatment include any fungus related issues? I had a new fish with a fungal infection and had to treat the whole tank. Removed the carbon filter, once treatment was done, I put the carbon filter back in.
However, I did lose the sick fish..
But none of my remaining fish have any signs!��
I used Kordons rid ich plus.
That is what my LFS recommended for me..
However, from the pics, I do not see any signs of fungus, so not sure why the fins would be clamped.. other than like previously stated, the tank may not be cycled..
I treated my tank with stability and prime as water conditioner, for weeks!! Everything tested fine, but it wasnt, and I sadly lost 4 guppies!!
Luckily, I bought a NEW bottle of tetra safe start, and started doing DAILY water changes (make sure the temp is as close as possible) and I used Prime and safe start EVERY DAY with the water change and was able to get my 2 remaining panda cories and 2 black loaches through it.. and now they're thriving.. I'm sure they suffered, which breaks my heart.. but I thought it was cycled, just like I am sure you did..
To be honest.. some fish just cant make it through the process...
But dont lose hope...
I because VERY discouraged and wanted to give up at times, but I am SOO HAPPY I pushed through!! I now have a wonderful and stable tank with many happy & healthy fish!!
You'll get there.
We all have made mistakes..
You will learn and be better from it!!

 

[Ally88]

My carbon filter is in the cartridge

It says it helps with fungal!
I didn’t see any on him either, he looks quite normal physically. It’s just the clamped fin and odd behaviour. He’s the only one that seems to be affected. The rest are quite normal, even the fish that was put in at the same time as this platy.

Yeah, that’s what I thought. That it would have been cycled. I was using nutrafin cycle. I saw in YouTube videos that it works :’(.

I think all the research I’ve done didn’t do too much if I’m already having troubles. I wonder if I should keep adding the cycle solution after the treatment or not bother with it.

Honestly after seeing my platy act unusual, I kept second guessing myself if I can handle everything properly. I talked to people that I know who’s had fish and she just said that some just die. I imagine there’s always a reason.

 

[Aiken Drum]

The carbon will be removing all the medication. Thats what the instructions mean when they say to remove the filter, they need you to remove the carbon so it doesnt soak up all the medication. I would really stop using the medication as it hasnt been doing anything due to the carbon.

I would set up the filter properly, do a big water change and start over. Add your cycle stuff, it may help. Test water every day. Do water changes sufficient to keep ammonia + nitrite at no higher than 0.5ppm combined. If it gets to 0.75ppm combined, do a 30% water change. If it gets to 1ppm combined, change 50% etc. Feed lightly, as much as they eat in 1 minute daily or 2 minutes every other day. Dont add any more fish.

Eventually you will start to see 0ppm ammonia and nitrite in your daily test and your nitrate should be rising then. You are cycled. You then do your water changes to control nitrate only. Typically you want to keep nitrate below 40ppm. If 50% weekly water change doesn't keep you below 40ppm you are over stocked. Remove fish or get a bigger tank.

 

[Ally88]

Awesome. Thank you so much. I’ll do exactly that