Ok, keep us posted. That sounds ok, I've thought they build up to cure levels.
How is the catfish - not troubled by the meds?
How is the catfish - not troubled by the meds?
Texas cichlid flashing alot. Every 5 minutes.
- Thread starter sealife
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sealife
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This morning my texas has small amounts of white spot. Not sure if it was from stress, if if it was white spot the whole time and only bisible now. Should I treat with white spot medication? Its been close to 48 of first treatment for flukes.
This is stressful...
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This is stressful...
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Raise temp to 85 degrees F, but slowly at a rate of 1 degree per hour. Also treat with seachem paraguard which is the only catfish safe malachite green in the market. All other malachite formulations are dangerous to catfish. Most catfish also dislike salt. If possible move your catfish so you can freely treat your cichlid.
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sealife
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No one is my area sells paraguard. I have no idea why. I really want some of this stuff.
I tried calling 6 aquariums, and had no luck. I will try ebay.
In the meantime, I do have a ick medicine lying around, which has green malachite and copper in it. And I also have tri sulfate. I threw in tri sulfate.
Which is strong stuff aparently. But kills most parasites in water. If my catfish survives this, my biomedia wont.
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I tried calling 6 aquariums, and had no luck. I will try ebay.
In the meantime, I do have a ick medicine lying around, which has green malachite and copper in it. And I also have tri sulfate. I threw in tri sulfate.
Which is strong stuff aparently. But kills most parasites in water. If my catfish survives this, my biomedia wont.
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Well that's good news - white spot. So we know what we are treating for which is great.
Tri sulpha I've used mainly for bacterial infections. Does it say it will treat for anything else? I have read of it added to fungal treatments but not much else. Will check my bottle tonight. Also I don't know if it is my tank but the bb are fine with it so might be ok.
I wouldn't add anything else. The risk would be you end up double-dosing when you are already treating for parasites eg the MG.
You need very good surface water flow and mature fish to treat with meds and lift the temp to 86F (30C). It's just the added stress. What's your temp now?
Tri sulpha I've used mainly for bacterial infections. Does it say it will treat for anything else? I have read of it added to fungal treatments but not much else. Will check my bottle tonight. Also I don't know if it is my tank but the bb are fine with it so might be ok.
I wouldn't add anything else. The risk would be you end up double-dosing when you are already treating for parasites eg the MG.
You need very good surface water flow and mature fish to treat with meds and lift the temp to 86F (30C). It's just the added stress. What's your temp now?
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sealife
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The tri sulfar states it treats ich.
I think the catfish I added gave it to him. He was flashing alot 12 hours after I added him.
Water temp is 24 degrees
Thanks
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I think the catfish I added gave it to him. He was flashing alot 12 hours after I added him.
Water temp is 24 degrees
Thanks
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I just had a look at my tri-sulpha and it says the same that it aids in white spot (ich) control. I'm a little dubious myself but it is on the label. Not that I doubted the post but a little surprised. Actually just found it listed for use in the link below:
Aquarium Ich Disease | Ichthyophthirius Multifilis & Cryptocaryon
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]"For Scale-less or Delicate Fish, use Malachite Green at a quarter to half dose along with Triple Sulfa. The safest treatment for scale-less fish is Quinine Hydrochloride, but this is less effective than other medication treatments, although it can be combined with half or quarter strength Malachite Green for more effectiveness.
Another point as to Triple Sulfa is, even with less sensitive fish such as Goldfish; the use of Triple Sulfa still buffers the harsh effects of Malachite Green and more importantly for fish that are not that sensitive to Malachite Green and are kept in a healthy KH and properly mineralized aquarium the use of Triple Sulfa is excellent for fin damage that is a common secondary infection with Ich outbreaks![/FONT]"
Some other links. If you can very slowly lift the tank temp up a couple of degrees this will speed the cycle up. Say around 26 or 27. Just in case there are some suggested temp increase rates in the links, etc but these are in F so slower than that.
Using Heat to Treat Ich in Freshwater Tropical Fish - Article at The Age of Aquariums - Tropical Fish
Disease Treatment Tips
Edit - does anyone know how tri-sulpha is useful with ich?
Aquarium Ich Disease | Ichthyophthirius Multifilis & Cryptocaryon
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]"For Scale-less or Delicate Fish, use Malachite Green at a quarter to half dose along with Triple Sulfa. The safest treatment for scale-less fish is Quinine Hydrochloride, but this is less effective than other medication treatments, although it can be combined with half or quarter strength Malachite Green for more effectiveness.
Another point as to Triple Sulfa is, even with less sensitive fish such as Goldfish; the use of Triple Sulfa still buffers the harsh effects of Malachite Green and more importantly for fish that are not that sensitive to Malachite Green and are kept in a healthy KH and properly mineralized aquarium the use of Triple Sulfa is excellent for fin damage that is a common secondary infection with Ich outbreaks![/FONT]"
Some other links. If you can very slowly lift the tank temp up a couple of degrees this will speed the cycle up. Say around 26 or 27. Just in case there are some suggested temp increase rates in the links, etc but these are in F so slower than that.
Using Heat to Treat Ich in Freshwater Tropical Fish - Article at The Age of Aquariums - Tropical Fish
Disease Treatment Tips
Edit - does anyone know how tri-sulpha is useful with ich?
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sealife
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Thanks guys for the feedback. I just ordered some paraguard off ebay. Only place I could find it.
I have some white spot medication here, called aquasonic ichonex. Which has copper and malachite green as ingrediants. But that stains the the whole tank blue. And because I was worried if I have fluke and white spot, I decided to go for tri sulfar which I had lying around, which states on label it helps with ich and other external parasites. Until I get paraguard, I might stick with this. Ill try up the heater a bit to spead the process. Thanks again guys.
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I have some white spot medication here, called aquasonic ichonex. Which has copper and malachite green as ingrediants. But that stains the the whole tank blue. And because I was worried if I have fluke and white spot, I decided to go for tri sulfar which I had lying around, which states on label it helps with ich and other external parasites. Until I get paraguard, I might stick with this. Ill try up the heater a bit to spead the process. Thanks again guys.
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I've lost the link on temperature and ich life cycle times I had unfortunately. I had a nice table for ponds to 30C. If you do a search you may find something.
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sealife
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I put temp to 27. Should hopefully be ok. Fish still seem to swim around fine. Just flashing from time to time.
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I've had it at 33 I think it was over summer when I went away. They were all fine although I assume the temp shift was gradual and I have a lot of aeration. The shift back down in temp later I've never had any trouble.
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sealife
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Hmmmm maybe tonight I will beef up the temp.
Thanks for all your help Delapool. Very much appreciated.
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Thanks for all your help Delapool. Very much appreciated.
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Sorry I should of mentioned that was with no meds. I'll see if I can find that table again.
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sealife
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So with meds, should I keep teno at 27? Or put it back to 24? Or still put it to 30?
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No worries. From memory ich should clear in 3 days at 30C.
But running 30C and meds is usually not advised because of the stress, lack of O2 and either temp or meds will do the job. I'd keep at 27 for the moment as they sound fine at that.
I had a look through the links I have (still can't find that table) and in theory at 27C the ich cycle should complete within 2-3 days (maybe 3 to 4 days at 24 - 25C). I find it lasts a week or so even at high temp but should be fine with the 10 day waterlife treatment. Just a matter of waiting it out. How are they doing?
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sealife
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Temp is at 30.
both doing good actually. Swimming around like normal. Even the catfosh still seems fine with tri sulfar meds. Texas still flashing. Texas had about 5 or so spots. Some dropped off. Hoping the tri sulfar stops them from re attaching themselves onto him and kills them off.
My pepermint bristlenose naturally has white spots on him. As his a peppermint breed. So it was impossible for me to tell that he possibly brought the disease in my tank.
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both doing good actually. Swimming around like normal. Even the catfosh still seems fine with tri sulfar meds. Texas still flashing. Texas had about 5 or so spots. Some dropped off. Hoping the tri sulfar stops them from re attaching themselves onto him and kills them off.
My pepermint bristlenose naturally has white spots on him. As his a peppermint breed. So it was impossible for me to tell that he possibly brought the disease in my tank.
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sealife
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Sorry, temp is at 27, not 30.
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