The worst parasite you can get (And I have it) ---- camallanus worms

[duckinator617]

About a 2 weeks ago I was doing the usual check up of my fish in my 55 gallon freshwater planted tank, and while I was doing this I saw, what looked like, little spikes protruding out of my angle fish's anal area. I did some research on the computer and decided it was a type of internal parasite. After further research I thought it was a nematode. When I discovered this I immediately called up That Fish Place (I live 30 min. away) and received advice to use a medication called Prazi-Pro. They also told me to do a water change be for I dosed it. So after a 1/3 water change I correctly dosed my 55 gallon aquarium with Prazi-Pro. I had I high hopes for the Prazi-Pro, except that after 2 weeks it had no impact on the parasites. By this time I had already done 3 dosages and had lost a lemon tetra, 2 danios and a turquoise rainbow fish. Now, I decided to do some serious research online and came up with this article: Camallanus Worms: An Aquariasts Worst Nightmare. And surly enough I looked up picture for Camallanus, and there it was! Exactly as mine looked like. (1 week since infection) I decided to purchase a Turbo Twist 3x UV Sterilizer (Running on 55gph), and frankly, I cannot notice any impact on the camallanus since setup. Except I can definitely tell that my algae is going down. By this time I decided to use the Fenbendazole treatment that the author of the article that a previously talked about used. I called my local Veterinarian and as it turns out, they have someone that just got back from a convention that talked about aquatic parasites. So I talked to her, and she did a few calculations on body mass of the fish and how much fish are in the tank and can up with the dosage to put in 4.2cc dissolved Fenbendazole in water into my 55 gallons once a week, she also said that it would be a good idea to replace my gravel (which I was already planning to do) because thousands of worm's egg were living in it. I just put in the dosage 2 days ago and have not seen any improvement, instead I see one HUGE worm sticking out of my angel fish as healthy and as happy can be laying his d*** eggs in my water. The only improvement I see since the Fenbendazole treatment is that every one of my hydra infection has been completely wiped out. I guess I will wait and see if there is any improvement in the worms and post it here. I will also post some pics.

[duckinator617]

Ahhh...I now this might sound dumb, but how do you post a picture from your files.

[logansmomma1228]

It is easier to upload from photobucket, and use the IMG link. The pics will show up straight in your post. Also, do you have another tank that you could possibly QT and treat the fish in? Like with no substrate, or anything for the eggs to hide in. Just nuke the whole QT . Will that help maybe? Then you could bust down your original tank, scrub and clean it SUPER good (no soap, bleachwater) and re set it up?


Welcome to AA

[Lowryder]

you need 5 post to upload pictures

[duckinator617]

Here is my angel's worms:




Nasty Little Devils

[jsoong]

That is certainly a bad one!

Not trying to disagree with your vet, but treating the worms with meds in the water only kills the worms that is in the water, but not necessarily those in the fish. Personally, I would go with meds in the food, so it gets to the worms in the fish ....

If your water treatment does not work, I would suggest trying Jungle's anti-parasite food. It contains Praziquental, Metronidazole & Levamazole. Levamazole is what is effective for the worms. <Prazi & Metronidazole are more for the unicellular parasites like ich.> This is the few medicated food that has levamazole, which is the drug of choice for camallanus from what I read.

[duckinator617]

Ok. I think I found out what I'm doing. I'll list these in steps so its easier to follow along. Also, I just bought a 75 gallon tank on Craigslist.
1. Keep dosing the Fenbendazole treatment until the worms are out of the fish.
2. Buy 30 gallon tank, 45lbs. of Flourite Gravel (Going in new 75g), And 55 gallon Brute trash can.
3. Use a power filter from the existing 55 gallon to get the 30 gallon cycling.
4. Take out 1/2 of the water in the previously infected 55g and put it in the Brute trash can.
5. Transport fish into 30 gallon
6. Take out the other 1/2 of the water leaving just and inch above the gravel so I don't siphon up any dead or alive eggs left.
7. Take out all live plants and just lay them somewhere for the time being.
8. Replace the 55g with the cleaned out 75 gallon and add the clean Flourite gravel.
9. (I know this might not be the smartest idea) Put the water from the Brute container back in the new 75 gallon.
10. Do a little aquascaping.
11. Add fish.
12. Add the rest of the water from the 30 gallon into the new 75 gallon.
13. Dose the 75 gallon with another Fenbendazole treatment.
14. Clean out the Brute and the 30 gallon.
15. Return the 30 gallon and the Brute to the store and get my money back.
What do ya think?

[duckinator617]

Originally Posted by jsoong

That is certainly a bad one!

Not trying to disagree with your vet, but treating the worms with meds in the water only kills the worms that is in the water, but not necessarily those in the fish. Personally, I would go with meds in the food, so it gets to the worms in the fish ....

If your water treatment does not work, I would suggest trying Jungle's anti-parasite food. It contains Praziquental, Metronidazole & Levamazole. Levamazole is what is effective for the worms. <Prazi & Metronidazole are more for the unicellular parasites like ich.> This is the few medicated food that has levamazole, which is the drug of choice for camallanus from what I read.

Thats great advice! Thanks! The only problem with that is that the infected fish don't eat. Yeah, I've already had 3 fish die from starving to death. I'm not sure why they don't eat, but I think it is because they know that they have a parasite in them so they take one for the team and die to kill the parasite. My vet suggested that we do the water treatment for 4 weeks then we move onto dosing it through the frozen blood worms to get it in their intestines.

[logansmomma1228]

Originally Posted by duckinator617

Ok. I think I found out what I'm doing. I'll list these in steps so its easier to follow along. Also, I just bought a 75 gallon tank on Craigslist.
1. Keep dosing the Fenbendazole treatment until the worms are out of the fish.
2. Buy 30 gallon tank, 45lbs. of Flourite Gravel (Going in new 75g), And 55 gallon Brute trash can.
3. Use a power filter from the existing 55 gallon to get the 30 gallon cycling.
4. Take out 1/2 of the water in the previously infected 55g and put it in the Brute trash can.
5. Transport fish into 30 gallon
6. Take out the other 1/2 of the water leaving just and inch above the gravel so I don't siphon up any dead or alive eggs left.
7. Take out all live plants and just lay them somewhere for the time being.
8. Replace the 55g with the cleaned out 75 gallon and add the clean Flourite gravel.
9. (I know this might not be the smartest idea) Put the water from the Brute container back in the new 75 gallon.
10. Do a little aquascaping.
11. Add fish.
12. Add the rest of the water from the 30 gallon into the new 75 gallon.
13. Dose the 75 gallon with another Fenbendazole treatment.
14. Clean out the Brute and the 30 gallon.
15. Return the 30 gallon and the Brute to the store and get my money back.
What do ya think?

you don't need to use the water from the 30 gal to fill the 75. fill it with fresh, dechlored water. Water does not carry beneficial bacteria so the only thing you would be doing is reinfecting your tank if there are still eggs in the water. I personally would do the rest, QTing the fish . You can use a dropper to feed them if they will not eat.

[duckinator617]

Originally Posted by logansmomma1228

you don't need to use the water from the 30 gal to fill the 75. fill it with fresh, dechlored water. Water does not carry beneficial bacteria so the only thing you would be doing is reinfecting your tank if there are still eggs in the water. I personally would do the rest, QTing the fish . You can use a dropper to feed them if they will not eat.

So you are saying that I should start out with brand new dechlorinated water in my 75g. Wouldn't that mess with my already perfect water perimeters that my fish should have, and also that I would also have to wait about a month for beneficial bacteria bacteria to grow while my fish are cramped in a 30 gallon? I would rather put in the perfect infected water, and then completely kill the worms with the fenbendazole water dosing and fenbendazole blood worms.

[Aquarium1]

Water doesn't carry over the bacteria that process the ammonia, therefore it wouldn't really help any to bring it over. All the cycling bacteria are on the filter media, substrate, decor, etc.

[MartinBlank]

Originally Posted by duckinator617

So you are saying that I should start out with brand new dechlorinated water in my 75g. Wouldn't that mess with my already perfect water perimeters that my fish should have, and also that I would also have to wait about a month for beneficial bacteria bacteria to grow while my fish are cramped in a 30 gallon? I would rather put in the perfect infected water, and then completely kill the worms with the fenbendazole water dosing and fenbendazole blood worms.

The bacteria is mostly in your filter media and substrate, with some on your plants. There is very very little beneficial bacteria free floating in your water. Especially if you have a UV sterilizer running.

I would put fresh water in the 75, keep the same filter moving from the 55 to the 30 to the 75 (it should be chock full of bacteria) and just keep a close eye on your water levels and do water changes if your ammonia starts to spike (Prime can help you deal with this as well).

My 2 cents

[duckinator617]

Here are a few pics of my tank:
Just so you know I don't use C02 but I am planning to use pressurized for my new 75g.
Whole Tank

Lemon Tetra
UV Sterilizer

Fluval C3

AquaClear 70

Turquoise Rainbowfish

Side View

Diferent Angle

[duckinator617]

Originally Posted by MartinBlank

The bacteria is mostly in your filter media and substrate, with some on your plants. There is very very little beneficial bacteria free floating in your water. Especially if you have a UV sterilizer running.

I would put fresh water in the 75, keep the same filter moving from the 55 to the 30 to the 75 (it should be chock full of bacteria) and just keep a close eye on your water levels and do water changes if your ammonia starts to spike (Prime can help you deal with this as well).

My 2 cents

Ok thanks for the advice. That makes more sense. I guess I will start out with the new water. I just have some questions: the only way I can get water into my tank is from a hose outside connected to my house. So how long would it take for my water to be ok for my fish (ph, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite etc.)? Because I would have live plants that will not have any substrate for nutrients and no water for them, out in the air. Also I don't want my fish to be cramped in my QT tank without a light for days. I would really not want my fish and plants dying from incorrect water perimeters or stress.

[corrado33]

I would test your hose water for ammonia/nitrites/nitrates. Other than that, all you really have to do is wait for it to be heated correctly. You need something from the old tank that has beneficial bacteria on it in the new tank, so you could use some of the filter inserts or something. (I skimmed over parts of the thread, and I'm not sure if you want to use them for fear they have the bad worms/eggs on it, but I'm not sure about that part) Other than that, you should be fine, just don't leave the stuff in your filter without food (fish poop) for too long, or else the bacteria will die, and you'll have to cycle all over again. You'll have to wait for the water to reach the right temp however, and the time that'll take will depend on the heater/heaters you have in the tank. Good luck! And you have an absolutely beautiful tank, hopefully the new one turns out as well as the old one was!

EDIT: The plants should help keep the ammonia down if you do have a mini cycle though, so I think you'll be safe. Just monitor it daily or more.