Hey everybody! Very nervous here! Very new to fish and I don't want to loose him, the last week has been crazy, I moved them to new 55 gallon tank , bit did it all wrong, wasn't cycled and then I had a bacterial bloom, now it's great, slowly it disappeared and things are looking up, but this morning I saw my black moor , who usually is so shiny and beautiful, has this white stuff everywhere!!! I read some stuff here and there not sure, maybe cottony fungus??? Can't test pH or other stuff cause I ran out of test kits, not till tomorrow morning can I get any, so what should I do now??? THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!
Urgent is this fungus??? ---- sick Moor
- Thread starter chimbica
- Start date
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jsoong
Aquarium Advice Addict
If you move the fish to a new tank & not the filter, then you have lost your bio-filter & need to cycle the new tank. 1 week is not long enough to cycle the tank. The bacterial bloom is indicative of an ammonia spike, you are prob in the start of the nitrite phase. If you still have your old tank running, you can shorten the cycle by seeding the new tank with the filter media from the old.
The whole process is extremely stressful to the fish, hence the problems you are seeing. From the picture I don't think this is fungus, possibly a bacterial infection (eg flexobactor aka columnaris), but more than likely an ammonia burn (possibly infected).
1st order of treatment is clean water. Until you remove the ammonia, the wounds will not heal. It is important to test the water to see where you are at. In the absence of test kit, I would do a 50% pwc on spec, and do that daily until you can test the water.
What other fish or plants you have? If it is just goldfish, I would also suggest adding salt. <Aquarium salt, or kosher or sea salt.> Salt will be effective against a host of external infections. In addition, it will also protect against nitrite poisoning - which is the next thing to watch for in a cycling tank. <Nitrtie binds to hemoglobin, preventing uptake of oxygen. The fish will act like it has no O2 - rapid breathing, gulping air, then lethargy.> Assuming there is no salt sensitive creatures in the tank, I would suggest adding salt to 0.1%. For a 55 gal, that would be ~200 g or ~12 tablespoons of salt. You want to predissolve the salt in water, and you might want to add 1/2 now & 1/2 the next day. When doing the pwc, you would need to maintain salt level by adding the same amount of salt to your change water. <So if you are changing out 25 gals of water, add 6 tablespoons of salt to the new water.>
This is relatively low level of salt, but is usu. effective for minor surface wounds & infections. you can up that to .3% if you are treating ich or other major infections. If the fish is responding, I would keep the salt level up for a week or 2 (all the time maintaining good water conditions), then let the level drop with pwc. It might be beneficial to maintain low level of salt (~0.01%) until your cycle is completed.
This is more detailed instructions on using salt, although the level is to 0.3% for ich. <You can 1/2 or 1/3 the dose for now.>
Treating Ich with Salt
The whole process is extremely stressful to the fish, hence the problems you are seeing. From the picture I don't think this is fungus, possibly a bacterial infection (eg flexobactor aka columnaris), but more than likely an ammonia burn (possibly infected).
1st order of treatment is clean water. Until you remove the ammonia, the wounds will not heal. It is important to test the water to see where you are at. In the absence of test kit, I would do a 50% pwc on spec, and do that daily until you can test the water.
What other fish or plants you have? If it is just goldfish, I would also suggest adding salt. <Aquarium salt, or kosher or sea salt.> Salt will be effective against a host of external infections. In addition, it will also protect against nitrite poisoning - which is the next thing to watch for in a cycling tank. <Nitrtie binds to hemoglobin, preventing uptake of oxygen. The fish will act like it has no O2 - rapid breathing, gulping air, then lethargy.> Assuming there is no salt sensitive creatures in the tank, I would suggest adding salt to 0.1%. For a 55 gal, that would be ~200 g or ~12 tablespoons of salt. You want to predissolve the salt in water, and you might want to add 1/2 now & 1/2 the next day. When doing the pwc, you would need to maintain salt level by adding the same amount of salt to your change water. <So if you are changing out 25 gals of water, add 6 tablespoons of salt to the new water.>
This is relatively low level of salt, but is usu. effective for minor surface wounds & infections. you can up that to .3% if you are treating ich or other major infections. If the fish is responding, I would keep the salt level up for a week or 2 (all the time maintaining good water conditions), then let the level drop with pwc. It might be beneficial to maintain low level of salt (~0.01%) until your cycle is completed.
This is more detailed instructions on using salt, although the level is to 0.3% for ich. <You can 1/2 or 1/3 the dose for now.>
Treating Ich with Salt
Thanks! So I got a better water test kit, and 0 ammonia!?? So I guess its not a ammonia burn, did a 20%water change (used conditioner 1st) they are now on lifeguard all in one, 5 day process, lady at local family fish store said looks maybe like columnaris? Not sure though, but these tablets would cure all, took all the carbon out of filter so it wouldn't suck up all of medication, got some live plants for them to munch on
jsoong
Aquarium Advice Addict
Well, even if your ammonia is zero now, it does not rule out an ammonia burn ... The ammonia could be high several days ago & the wounds are now visible (or got infected & turn white.)
You decided to start on meds instead of salt, that is fine. But do keep an eye on the levels & keep the water quality pristine. Meds can't help if the water quality is poor.
You decided to start on meds instead of salt, that is fine. But do keep an eye on the levels & keep the water quality pristine. Meds can't help if the water quality is poor.
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