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Luanne

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
30
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Having had my share of mini-disasters, my eyes are wide open to opinions regarding water and filter changes. As I've read through many of the forums, I gather that weekly (or twice weekly) water changes are recommended. What are your thoughts about filter changes? In the beginning, I was advised to change/clean everything (charcoal, sponges, coral-thingies (sic)) every two months (I use a Fluval 205). In waiting that long to change/clean the filter, I found it was quite gunky. However, doing more frequent filter cleaning/changes (every 6 weeks) resulted in cloudy tank syndrome! Darned if you do, darned if you don't!

Have also wondered if I am vacuuming the gravel too thoroughly. After doing a 20% water change (which includes my vacuuming the gravel), the water is cloudy again.

One final thought; when I do the 20% water change and filter change, I add about 2 tbsp's of aquarium salt (tank is 25 gal) and water tap conditioner.

Critiquing welcome!

Luanne
 
I have a Marineland C-360 canister. I do a 50% PWC weekly and light gravel vac (planted, so only siphon the top layer) and every 3 weeks I rinse out the coarse foam bottom pad thoroughly and change the final "polish" pad, then I rinse the bio-material (balls and ceramic) in tank water I pull from the tank. Every 9 weeks I replace the coarse foam pads. Canisters do get gunky so don't be too surprised, but cleaning the canister only once every 8 weeks is way too long, you'll end up with a Nitrate factory.

If the 'coral thingies' you are referring to is the white granules that look similar to granulated carbon in size, that's another chemical filtration media (I can't remember what it's called, it's not bio-chem zorb, but something that works similarly) and you should replace that on some kind of regular basis.

Personally I only use Purigen because it does the same thing as carbon and other stuff, but lasts 6 months and is rechargeable so it lasts years, and works great in canisters. I use 500mL in my 55 (10x the recommended amount). It also doesn't take out nutrients that live plants need when compared to carbon (or least only a fraction).

Your water should clear up relatively quickly (mine clears in 10 minutes) after a gravel vac if your canister is working properly. I would think that the flow may be impeded due to infrequency of cleaning. Also, if you're not allowing the gravel vac to get all the gunk out of the gravel before lifting it up to let the gravel out, you'll release the gunk out of the siphon. What I do it sink it down just long enough to start pulling stuff out, then lift it so that the end of the siphon is right above the gravel, and let the gravel slowly drop out so it doesn't 'woosh' down and suck the siphoned debris with it. It you're using a siphon and bucket, it helps to put your thumb or finger over the tube to slow the siphon and let the gravel out slower. If you're using a python, depending on the flow rate, you can use the shutoff valve to control the siphon speed.

Hope this helps
 
Disclaimer: I have no canister filter experience.

I've taken to cleaning my AquaClear HOBs every three weeks. I have three tanks with HOB filters and I clean one a week. When I get my 40B set up, I might just add it into the rotation so the filters get cleaned out once every four weeks.

I siphon water from a tank and use it to clean out the sponge. I've found it works better than trying to squeeze out the sponge in a bucket. I also rapidly dunk the biomedia bags into a bucket of old tank water several times to clean the biomedia off. I don't run carbon unless I'm trying to remove something from the water.

I'm not sure you can vacuum gravel too thoroughly. Too violently, yes; too thoroughly, no. I have sand in my tanks so I don't have to vacuum it very much. When I do vacuum the detritus off the top of the sand, I prefer to use my short gravel vac as opposed to my 50ft python. The gravel vac provides a lot more suction power. The python just stirs things up.

I like to do my PWCs weekly and change 30-50% of the tank volume. I add Prime water conditioner, then I refill the tank with tap water that's ~5 degrees F colder than the tank water. My water is actually clearer than the tank glass.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the info, gents.....very informative.

The coral-thingies I refer to are actually ceramic rings used in the Fluval filter....you learn something new every day!

Luanne
 
Never change the biomedia (ceramic rings) in your filter. NEVER. There is absolutely no reason to, and if you throw out your old biomedia and replace it with new stuff then you are throwing out all the good bacteria and you will have to re-cycle the tank. Sometimes pet stores tell you that you need to change the filter media only so they can (conveniently) sell you more of it and make $$$. It's hogwash. You may need to change the sponge part of it with some regularity, that's fine as its primary purpose is just to remove physical debris. But the ceramic biomedia, whose purpose is to grow your beneficial filter bacteria, should not ever be changed.

All you need to do with the biomedia is rinse it off if it starts to get gunk on it. When you rinse, be sure you are rinsing it either with tank water, or else with tap water that has already been dechlorinated. If you rinse it with water straight from the tap, the chlorine/chloramine in your water can kill the bacteria which is the last thing you want to do.

Is that clear? :grin:

Two other quick thoughts:

1. You said you used water "conditioner." There are a lot of products out there sold as water conditioners. Some also remove chlorine & chloramine, but some don't. Check the label. Does it say it removes both chlorine and chloramine? If it doesn't, then it's worthless. Get one that does. The one that has the best reputation, IMO, is Seachem Prime, which most reputable aquarium shops will have in stock. (Another Canadian online source for it here.) There are other brands that make similar products too. Just be sure whatever you are using says explicitly that it detoxifies both chlorine and chloramine, because sometimes there are things sold as "water conditioners" that do not dechlorinate at all, but are really nothing more than blackwater extracts or fish slime coat promoters or whatever. Or some dechlorinators can handle chlorine only, but not chloramine. Unless you know with 100% certainty what your municipality uses for water treatment, that is taking a huge risk. What you need is a comprehensive dechlorinator that handles both options. Besides doing that, Prime also detoxifies heavy metals and binds ammonia/nitrite into non-toxic forms that render it harmless to your fish but still usable by filter bacteria. It's great stuff. A 250 ml bottle will cost you under $10 Canadian and last you for probably 2+ years worth of water changes.

2. In general, there is no need to add salt to a freshwater aquarium. If you use tap water for your water changes then there are already low levels of salt ions in the water and that is more than adequate enough for most fishes needs. This point (the issue of salt addition to freshwater tanks) is somewhat debated in the hobby so you'll likely get different people expressing different opinions on the question.
 
Ceramic rings

Thank you for the additional info, JohnPaul.

I guess I should've been a bit more clear describing what I do when I do changes/cleanings.

The fellow that helped me set up the tank told me to never change the ceramic rings; I've honored that.....when I do my filter changes, I take out half of them and rinse these off. The other half are not touched. However, I never gave any thought to how I was rinsing them. I'll keep in mind, for the next time, to rinse these off with the tank water.

One more question: when I'm changing/cleaning my filter, I do replace the charcoal (I have two chambers that hold the meshbags of charcoal). Should both of these be replaced or just rinsed? (rinse one, replace one?)

Thanks again for the advice.

Luanne
 
You can rinse all the ceramic rings in old tank water. It won't hurt anything.

I never run carbon unless I'm trying to remove tannins or medication from the water. Save the money and just dump the carbon. You can even fill the extra space with filter floss or more biomedia.
 
i don't run carbon on my tanks either which are planted. i just put another layer of ceramic rings with a peice of filter floss on top of it. i rinse everything out in the old tank water during a partial water change every 3 weeks and i never have cloudy water afterwards.
 
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