Cyano?

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Squidly

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Hello all, Iv been dealing with a purplish layer over my sand bed for some time and would like to know how to get rid of it. I was under the impression that it may be a bacteria layer until someone suggested a diatom bloom. Regardless, I have been constantly at battle with this problem doing everything I can including less feeding and regular water changes. Any advice or opinions are appreciated!
 

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I had the same problem for ages was all over my rocks and sand I done water changes every week by syhphoning the sand bed cleaned filter out changed carbon filters and added a phosphate nuteluser Seems to have cleared it all away
 
A diatom bloom would be a brownish color. Siphon out as much as you can every time you do a water change. The more of the stuff you can physically remove the better. Also, try to get more water flow in the tank. As a whole, cyano doesn't like water flow. Then continue what you would do to control any algae, change water, export nutrients and control the rate of nutrient import.
 
Awesome, very good suggestions! I haven't been sucking the bad areas out for fear of losing to much of my sand bed. . .should I just take as much out as I can and eventually add more sand?
 
I use clear 3/8 tubing from the home improvement store as my siphon when doing water changes. It takes a long time to drain 5 gallons, but it allows me to pinpoint what I am sucking up. You should be able to take up a fine layer of cyano while losing a minimum of sand. If you have that much growing there may actually be a build up of phosphates bound to the aragonite that is fueling the problem in the first place so removing the sand may actually end up being part of the solution.

I have actually gone to a bare bottom for just just reason. All of the sand is in my sump where it can more easily be changed if the phosphates start to accumulate.

Using the small tubing will allow you to groom the whole tank to sweep up as much detritus as possible when removing water. This will help with nutrient export. You can get into the nooks and crannies that a normal tank vac will miss.
 
Don't forget it will take time. It won't clear up over night. But that is some very good advice to follow for cyano. Less input of nutrients and more export threw water changes, also increase flow in low flow areas.
 
Awesome, thanks all for the replies I have recently turned up flow and it has given way slightly. Also, I have been using purigen packs to decrease phosphates so I guess that hasn't been doing its job!
 
Hahaha thank you, once I saw the picture I couldn't resist!
 
Purigen cannot remove phosphate that is bound to the aragonite in the sand, but the cyano can sit there and suck it out. If you have higher flower hair algae takes over from cyano doing the same job.
 
You will have to tone down you lighting, use only actinic if you can for about a week or two, and as already suggested add a lot more of water flow until its gone! Shouldn't take more than a week or two. Also don't use FLAKE food as much, if you can, don't use it at all!!! They cause most of your phosphates if you are using them.
The lighting and flow are very important if you want this gone!!!
 
Another thing could be the age of your light bulbs. Somewhere around 6-8 months the frequency spread that a fluorescent bulb gives off will start to dramatically shift. That shift often means that the lights will start to give off light that is strongly preferential to certain types of nuisance algae.
 
Another thing could be the age of your light bulbs. Somewhere around 6-8 months the frequency spread that a fluorescent bulb gives off will start to dramatically shift. That shift often means that the lights will start to give off light that is strongly preferential to certain types of nuisance algae.

Very true!!!!
 
I have standard biocube stock lighting so nothing that's to powerful. Also, my tank is about 8 months old now so as mentioned the lights age may play a big part. I have been staying away from flake food and have been using mysis as an alternative.
 
What is your water source? (Tap, LFS, RODI)

Tapwater is often high in nutrients for cyano, so water changes with tap will often fuel it instead of limit it. If you are using water from another source, test it as well to eliminate that as a nitrate or phosphate source.

As others have said, increasing flow will often help as well.
 
When you thaw the mysis strain it and rinse it in some clean water. That can help reduce nutrient import as well.
 
I was using RO from my unit until it broke so lately Iv been buying water from the lfs (which I assume is RO).
 
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