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Old 04-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by aislinn View Post
The weekly water change is done entirely by the coupling of the aquarium system to the reservoir of the toilet.
Auarium water is then used to flush toilets, fresh water is then refilled with tank system.
My favorite!! Love that!

Your tanks look amazing and you have great workmanship.

It is a fish eat fish world!

Sometimes learning from the mistakes of others is all the education and experience you need.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:50 AM   #22
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Genius! Wonderful tanks! thank you for sharing
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:38 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by aislinn View Post

Isolatieglas, enkelglas, veiligheidsglas, deuren, ventilatieroosters en beglazingsmateriaal | glasdiscount.nl | isolatieglas, glas, glas-in-lood, ventilatieroosters, kit en overig beglazingsmateriaal

This are 2 stores where i have good experiences with.
If you are interested in buying glass online, you can also look at DIYfishkeepers
I believe that the site also comes from Canada.
Also there are some people who are very helpful.
You could post here and there a topic, with the question, where you can order glass online.
The question to buy stuff online i read often on forums from Canada and the USA, for example on monsterfishkeepers.com.
I can also imagine that this is very different than in the Netherlands.
Netherlands is a small but densely populated country in such a country you will have to more online shops, then in a very large and wide country.

I do not know the percentages, but I believe that in the Netherlands online shops have a large share in the sale of goods.
We also have here different payments methods in this type stores, I believe that this is in the Vs and Canada is also different than here.

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Thank you so much I appreciate your input
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:17 PM   #24
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Can we get some pictures of your toilet connection? How do you treat the water for chlorine?
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by fishfanatic View Post
Can we get some pictures of your toilet connection? How do you treat the water for chlorine?

How much water I change varies, averaging between 70 and 100 liters per day.
Chlorine is hardly in our drinking water, our drinking water has an average hardness, and is very clean.
The clean water first comes in a buffer, where it is slightly warmed and aerated.

This type of refresh water systems can only apply if the supplied water is from a good quality , this is the case.

on the reservoir of the toilet there is a connection for fresh and one for aquarium water. Normally the one for fresh water is closed. But sometimes i switch to clean water for example when we have a party and a lot of visitors are using the toilet.

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Old 04-06-2013, 05:32 AM   #26
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I recieved several emails in which people asked how I made the rock wall.
Making this kind of back walls and decorations is very simple, and it is also not to creativity or something, it goes much more to the process and the system to work.
I will list how I did it, and include a list of materials and tools.
On some pictures from the previous report I have some overhangs created by the existing back, this is only done on a few points, normally I dont do it like this, first,it's a lot harder to do, and also more expensive.
Even with the modifications of the 360cm aquarium I'm talking about large part of the walls, and the
overhangs made as described below.
Initially I cut a plate to the desired length and width (this is the maximum size of therear) ........ it should fit later.
The base plate is also just styrofoam, then I cut another plate in the size of the firstplate, then I sign it off in a pattern which I later want.

The next step is to cut out the marked parts, if you've cut out everything you can cut in the relatively
small pieces a design application and / or they are thicker so that they protrude more later, for
thicken a separate part, you can cut out the first part covers a different styrofoam plate.
The individual pieces you dont make smaller than the dimensions that you received after cutting, you
go only straight edges a little crooked crop
The cropping pattern is very easy ............ you can potentially never do much wrong ............... it does
not have to be fluent, this will come later.
For cutting out the pattern in the individual parts I use ... and this is important for those
degradable hobby knives, this can extend all the way so that you get a knife from 8 to 10 cm.
I am using a hobby knife in the ordinary size and one that is much narrower.
Then grab a hobby burner or something else with an open flame, than you go verrry gently over the Styrofoam pieces you have cut.
There were irregular is in structure or not very smooth transitions than they will
disappear when you just go with the burner over it (you really need to keep the burner on a
reasonable distance from the workpiece otherwise it can be too fast or it will get on fire)
The operation with the burner you do to the surface (side view) but also on the sides, this is an
important act to do, at the moment you work on the sides of the workpiece with the burner
you will see that the material pulls back / shrinks.
Eventually you keep a slightly lower part than you initially have cut (the circumference of the
work piece)
If you do all this and you have all the pieces trimmed and a structure created paste
all pieces to the base plate, this happens with regular aquarium silicone, the pieces will easily
back to the original place match, for they are all significantly decreased.

If the sealant between the base plate and the individual parts is sufficiently cured, you bring tile adhesive on.
The first layer should be quite thick to apply the tile adhesive should be at least as thick that you still can use a
brush, by then subsequent layers, the tile adhesive slightly thinner.

I always do tile adhesive 3 layers, more layers is not necessary and it will not make it stronger.
When i do the last layer of tile adhesive I add pigment, so the final color, I add the pigment to the adhesive
I think this has advantages compared to the later paints and pigments or add to the epoxy, if you add
pigment to the tile adhesive the result will not completely smooth opaque color, this is
because the tile adhesive is not uniformly thick and the pieces where the glue was more liquid
will have a slightly different color effect.
Finally bring the epoxy in 1 or 2 layers, more layers is unnecessary .... it will not make it stronger.
After everything is dry you can see the whole of the aquarium wall slabs, in some cases it may be easier to do this before you make the epoxy layer, in itself it is easier if you make the epoxy
when the workpiece is flat, this especially if there are came in some cracks which are hard to reach.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:33 AM   #27
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:13 PM   #28
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Summary construction aquarium 2 part 1
I started building my 360 cm (141 inch) aquarium. This aquarium i make, just like my previous project, from multiplex and liquid pond liner. I liked working with these products with my 2200 liter Malawi aquarium. I want to link both aquariums to each other through the filtering. I got reasonable extra capacity with my Malawi aquarium, but do want to make a new filter part with that. Also for the heating i would like to link the aquariums to eachother. And also my current heating system has extra capacity.
Besides all this i want to make a solarcollector for the whole system.
I started building the substructure of the aquarium, i think it is easy to make and doesn't cost too much.
I have build aquarium stands before, but when i was working this afternoon on the one i'm making now, i got the feeling that i made it wrong the other times or to difficult. Used too much wood than while it wasn't nesecary.
I plan to finish the whole with laminate. And i think i will also do that with the already existing aquarium, because i want both aquariums to have the same look.
The existing aquarium i painted, looks ok, but i don't want to paint for weeks anymore, lol. I don't know yet what i will use to create a background.

Today i bought the wood for the aquarium and some underlayment for the construction. I connected the parts together and glued some
parts, including the underlayment. I still have to do some work at the construction, but i'm satisfied with the progress.
Getting stuff always takes a lot of time, so i hope the next few days i can work and take it easy.
I do have to buy some material to finish it, but i saw at a retail shop some laminate that i liked and can use for that and this week its for
sale too!

The costs so far are:
110 euro (145 USD) for the bars + screws
240 euro (316 USD) for all the wood of the aquarium + plate material for the substructure, glue and screws
I bought everything at a retail shop where i also could use some coupons for 20% off.

I'm mostly busy with the front, the whole is quite long this is especially a difficulty at the top of the frame.

I'm almost ready to work of the substructure. I bought laminate for that and was looking how i want it to look when it is finished.
I think the best way to do it is as in the picture.

I don't know yet how i want to make the filter cause there are several options.
On the pictures you can see an example of how i could make it.
The filter excists of a relatively small before filter and a room for the pump, than the water will be spraid into the dry filter. The whole dry
filter is filled with bio balls and substrate.
I could of course also choose for a somewhat more confessional preparation with for example a large wet biologist.
Feel free to give your opinion ...

Glueing the laminate takes quite long. I am depending on the numbers of clamps I have.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:14 PM   #29
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i have made the pre-filter and overflow.

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Old 04-14-2013, 12:09 PM   #30
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A work of art!
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