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Old 08-20-2009, 03:59 AM   #1
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75/90 Gallon Stand 1x4 pine construction(no 2x4).

Been working on this for about a week or so now in my spare time.
The back is stapled on 1/4 inch pine plywood finish sanded one side.
Top is 1/2 inch one side sanded pine plywood.
Bottom shelf is 3/4 inch plywood.

The rest is 1x4 select pine boards from Menards. The top trim is a routed ripped down 1x8 which I have to trim down in the back so it's flush. Will build the doors next from 1x3 inch pine and 1/4 inch !@#$ panels.

Dimensions:
48.5 inches wide, 18.5 inches deep, and 32.5 inches high.

Let me know if you have any questions on construction.

http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/front1.JPG
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/front2.JPG
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/side.JPG
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/side2.JPG

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Old 08-20-2009, 04:06 AM   #2
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woo thats cool, I wish I have the tools to make a stand like this,
mine is ugly, I use breaks, and couple pine woods LOL
works fine, just not really good looking hehe
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Old 08-20-2009, 04:46 AM   #3
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snorkel
That is really good work.
I usually work with a hardwood but you have turned thaat pine into good looking art.
Are you going to post pictures after completion?
Charles
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:35 AM   #4
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Awesome Job. I hope you keep us updated with your progress, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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Old 08-20-2009, 10:30 AM   #5
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snorkel
That is really good work.
I usually work with a hardwood but you have turned thaat pine into good looking art.
Are you going to post pictures after completion?
Charles
Thanks

I agree, hardwood like oak is nicer, but the cost for oak is double the cost for the pine and the clincher was the pine was completely knot free.

The biggest con is the softness of the wood when something hits it. You don't have to worry about strength, the compression strength for pine is like 700lbs per inch, so even 1x4 pine can support massive amounts of weight.

I will post more pics after the doors are on and everything is stained.

Later,

Snorkel
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:09 AM   #6
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Thanks

I agree, hardwood like oak is nicer, but the cost for oak is double the cost for the pine and the clincher was the pine was completely knot free.

The biggest con is the softness of the wood when something hits it. You don't have to worry about strength, the compression strength for pine is like 700lbs per inch, so even 1x4 pine can support massive amounts of weight.

I will post more pics after the doors are on and everything is stained.

Later,

Snorkel
Put a couple of good coats of Poly on it this will help it with resiliency. You're right about the weigh bearing of the pine, I was afraid to build a stand for my 120 so I ordered the stand and it is on comprised of 1 x's, holding about 1500lbs.
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Old 08-22-2009, 10:56 AM   #7
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That looks like a bottle of carpenters glue on the top. That stuff isn't water proof. I have a solid oak custom build in my basement that needs to be repaired because the carpenters glue didn't hold.
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:19 AM   #8
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That looks like a bottle of carpenters glue on the top. That stuff isn't water proof. I have a solid oak custom build in my basement that needs to be repaired because the carpenters glue didn't hold.
I've used regular carpenters glue on quite a few project and haven't had a problem. The only time I did was when the surfaces weren't flush/square and the surfaces of the areas to be glued weren't sufficiently cleaned.
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:22 AM   #9
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snorkel, thats a very nice looking stand... how much did it cost you in supplies?
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Old 08-22-2009, 01:42 PM   #10
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The problem with the stand I have is a leak caused the glue to fail. There is nothing wrong with the strength of carpenter glue, just it's susceptability to water.
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Old 08-22-2009, 01:57 PM   #11
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Very nice stand!
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Old 08-22-2009, 02:06 PM   #12
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i've never seen pine look so good. very nice job. only thing i would have done different was use titebond 3 or a poly glue like gorilla glue for the added protection incase of water splashes/spills/leaks.
Where/how did you get knot free pine?
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Old 08-22-2009, 03:42 PM   #13
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Looks nice snorkel. But don't fogot to seal it so there is no water damage.
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Old 08-24-2009, 02:14 AM   #14
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i've never seen pine look so good. very nice job. only thing i would have done different was use titebond 3 or a poly glue like gorilla glue for the added protection incase of water splashes/spills/leaks.
Where/how did you get knot free pine?
Everything is pocket screwed as well as glued, so the standard carpenters glue is fine, it will also be well coated on the inside and out with poly.

Gorilla glue is not good for wood joints because it expands big time while it cures. You would have to soak cured carpenters glue for a long time before it would come apart.

Later,

Snorkel
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Old 08-24-2009, 02:20 AM   #15
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snorkel, thats a very nice looking stand... how much did it cost you in supplies?
A lot less that 400 dollars (which a nice stand from the LFS would cost)

The wood is from Menards and is the select grade pine 1x4s. I have not added up the receipts, but it's less than 100. It's taken a fair amount of time to create this though.
It would have been far easier to just buy a nice one, but then I wouldn't have the satisfaction of knowing I built it

Later,

Snorkel
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:19 AM   #16
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A lot less that 400 dollars (which a nice stand from the LFS would cost)

The wood is from Menards and is the select grade pine 1x4s. I have not added up the receipts, but it's less than 100. It's taken a fair amount of time to create this though.
It would have been far easier to just buy a nice one, but then I wouldn't have the satisfaction of knowing I built it

Later,

Snorkel
you also wouldnt have the satisfaction of having $300 more dollars
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Old 08-25-2009, 06:37 AM   #17
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looks really good!
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:34 PM   #18
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Dude that looks great! What made you choose 1x4 instead of 2x4?
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:24 AM   #19
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Dude that looks great! What made you choose 1x4 instead of 2x4?
1x4s are easier to work with because they are generally a much higher grade.
The pine I used is select grade Radiata pine from New Zealand and has 0 knots.
When you start out with square wood, it's going to be easier to get a finished cabinet that is square and true.

I was really lacking time to do the doors, so I bit the bullet and ordered some.

Oh, and I decided to paint the top, back and inside with exterior acrylic latex instead of staining since those parts are not seen anyway. Will post pics when it's all stained and painted and doors attached.



Later,

Snorkel
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Old 09-15-2009, 04:08 PM   #20
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Update, almost done

The flash made some of the pics appear redish, but it's more brown in
person.

http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/one.jpg
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/two.jpg
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/three.jpg
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/four.jpg
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