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Old 07-03-2004, 01:47 PM   #1
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Boxters sump

As most of you may know about Boxters 180G in-wall project, he has asked me to build him a custom acrylic sump. Here is a rough design that I am posting for critique. Again keep in mind this is a very rough fast sketch.

Here are his goals:

-External skimmer sits off to the left of diagram fed via bulkheads
-Have the return chamber large to maintain a uniform waterlevel. (thus inside baffles are 1" lower that the outside intake chamber baffles.
-Have return pump centered on tank to avoid varying head heights which would change flow on one side or the other.

The total capacity as designed is approx 53 Gallons with an optimal running capacity of about 43-45 Gallons. Construction is planned to be of 3/8" cell cast acrylic. With what many baffles stuctural integrity is not an issue. However, at the moment the issue of deciding to use a euro-style bracing acros the top has come up. Needed? *shrugs* Looking for input. I have even considered using strips for a little additional support or even using 1/4" euro style bracing to reduce material cost.

Also, I may include an optional rack system in the sump for frags as Bok has inquired about it and intends to light the fuge well with PC lights.

Thoughts, Comments, or otherwise?
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:36 AM   #2
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Shameless bump......any takers?
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:08 PM   #3
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Boy. Wish I could say something. Not terribly familiar with building sumps. But I'll bump you up, too. The sketch *looks* great!
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Old 07-04-2004, 04:06 PM   #4
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Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2004, 02:08 PM   #5
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I think the slow response is just because of the holiday

IMO, 3/8" seems like overkill if you consider the number and placement of the baffles. I would imagine 1/4" would be more than enough, and going from 3/8" to 1/4" should save you a bit in cost already right?

Other than that, I think this is a sound plan.
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Old 07-05-2004, 03:59 PM   #6
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Yeah I considered using 1/4" but with the difference in cost being less than $40, in good concience I could not go less than 3/8". If it were mine sure, but someone elses... Thanks for the comments. I have never built a sump for an external skimmer, so I am still researching that. I think one bulkead out the left side will be fine and plumb the skimmer return over the side. We'll see. Still waiting on input and a response from bok.

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Old 07-05-2004, 05:32 PM   #7
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i have my sump out of 1/4 acrylic and it is 15Hx20Wx40L and i have a similar baffle system and there is no flex at all in mine, i think the 1/4" will be very sufficient. have the shop make all the cuts for you and i used lots of books and wood blocks to "glue", you are actually fusing it, together.
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Old 07-05-2004, 06:46 PM   #8
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I have all the appropriate tools for the job as I have built several in the past. I am aware 1/4 would be sufficient as all of my previous sumps have been 1/4 But this holding over 50 Gallons of water at 48" length, I wont chance it when it comes to someone elses flood. My concern if for the design, not the how to. Thanks again all. Keep 'em coming.

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Old 07-06-2004, 09:52 AM   #9
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Ronnie: Thanks so much for putting your time on this. The drawing looks good. I have the same thoughts on the 3/8". I guess the goal is to make the whole sump with 1 sheet of Acrylics. Personally, I prefer the Eurobrace, but really depends on the Acrylics left.

I am also thinking that maybe the skimmer output should be feed directly into the 2nd compartment (LR section). In this case, less skim water will be skim again. May not be a big deal, but what do you guys think?

The other things is that if something bad happened in my refugium, is there a way to disconnect it from the return chamber? I will have a ball valve at the Refugium intake.

Thanks for all the input again.
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
is there a way to disconnect it from the return chamber? I will have a ball valve at the Refugium intake.
You could place a T just before that ball valve, and have that branch of the T go through another ball valve and plumb it directly into the Return section of the Sump. This way if you want to bypass your fuge you open the second T (to the return section) and close the First (to the fuge) and you've bypassed it. Just note that the additional elbows in the PVC will reduce flow some, but hopefully your plumbed for well over your actual flow anyway to it should't be an issue?
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:56 PM   #11
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There simply won't be enough in one sheet to have a euro brace of 3/8" which is why I would greatly consider 1/4" just for the Euro bracing. But as Dusty suggested Euro bracing may not be required and that theory is again reinforced by using 3/8". But for piece of mind sake I still recommend it or at the least two 2" wide 3/8" strips running the length along the top. But we can cross that bridge when we get there. Billy Zs idea will definately help if for some reason you wanted to segregate your refugium, But with the inside baffles lower to help maintain a constant water level you will still get backflow as well as bubbles, bubbles, bubbles returned to the tank. There is simply no way around this unless you go with a totally separate refugium.

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Old 07-06-2004, 04:50 PM   #12
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BillyZ: That is exactly what I am thinking of implementing with the 45 and a ball valve. However, the refugium will not be totally isolated because of the baffle .

Sumphead: Since one sheet will not work for Eurobracing, then I can do without the Eurobracing. I don't understand the point of the bubbles going back to the display tank??
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Old 07-06-2004, 05:07 PM   #13
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Another thing. For the return bulkhead, would there a better place to put it. If I had it at the back, then I will be difficult for me to access the return pump. If I have it at the front, then the pump is is restricting my access to the sump. What a dilemma.
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:04 PM   #14
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Unfortunately having to step over the pump to get access to the sump is a necessary misfortune of wanting your return pump centered on the main tank. I think the Euro bracing in completely up to you. As for the bubbles; When water is sent to the sump it sucks a lot of air with it from the vent hole in your durso standpipe. When the water hits the sump it is quite turbulent. Having your tank drain into the return chamber will cause your pump to turn what bubbles there are into more and more bubbles returned to te display. HTH. I am not saying it is a bad idea, just a bubblt one.

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Old 07-06-2004, 11:11 PM   #15
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If you're looking for 100% isolation of the fuge in the event it's necessary, you could simply have an additional piece of plexi that slides in over the baffles to cut off the fuge area. Although it sounds like you guys have already budgeted out your full sheet of plexi.

For bubbles... what if instead of the baffles only going up to within a few inches of the top of the sump, bring them up all the way and drill a couple 2" diameter holes in it, and place sponges in the holes? might work as a bubble trap.
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Old 07-06-2004, 11:15 PM   #16
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could also be a nitrate trap as well.
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Old 07-07-2004, 12:32 PM   #17
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All sponges aren't neseccarily nitrate factories, but they do add to the maintenence list so as not to become one. But through experience sponge doesn't make a good bubble reducer anyway. It tends to make little bubbles out of big bubbles one it get saturated with air.
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