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Old 05-05-2007, 03:34 PM   #1
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Custom Sump/Fuge

I've been trying to get some additional input on my custom sump/fuge. Since this is my first DIY project, I'm a bit intimidated.

I have a 90G reef tank... currently have a wet/dry.

The return pump will supply the phosban...

I still want to have the inlet "pour" over the LR. Just seems like a good idea. The inlet also supplies the refugium. I'll use a ball valve there.

The mag-drive pump that I'm lookin at is 4.5" wide. So, 6" in the return would allow for some breathing room, etc.

With these modifications, the refugium is ~10 gallons.

I should add... I'm still trying to figure out how to place filter pads / chemi-pure, etc.

Also... the last baffle before the return... Could I get rid of that baffle so that water comes in through the bottom?
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:03 AM   #2
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How tall is the custom sump/fuge? From the diagram it appears it's 18.75" tall and you top right baffle lists it at 18" high. If that's the case your top baffle should only be 15" high to allow for some drainage back from the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorDrew
The return pump will supply the phosban
Are you running a Phosban reactor and plumbing the return with a ball valve to it? Phosban does best in a reactor with low flow.
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:30 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecwzrd
If that's the case your top baffle should only be 15" high to allow for some drainage back from the tank.
I think that is what the 1 inch "teeth" are for, but I could be mistaken.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tecwzrd
Phosban does best in a reactor with low flow.
I agree 100%, very little flow, or the phsban breaks up and ends up floating to the surface of the water.
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:52 AM   #4
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Just noticed the tank size at top (29 gal 18.75 tall).

Even with the 1" teeth its 17" high which only allows for 2 gal of drain back with a 90 gal tank. Assuming the water is 1" above the overflow during operation (typical) then the sump would need to be able to hold 3.9 gal extra when the pumps off and with a 15" high baffle it gives about 5 gal of extra storage capacity (24 gal versus 29 gal).
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:22 AM   #5
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Good point! LOL!
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Old 05-07-2007, 02:38 PM   #6
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Wouldn't the backflow go to where the return pump is? If that's the case, then the refugium can be 18" since the return pump area is only 10" high.

I'll take your advice though and lower the last baffle down an inch...

To answer the other question... yes, the return pump will power the phosban reactor. There will be a ball valve between the return pump and reactor. I'll try to achieve ~90gph, although I really don't know how to measure flow.

Also - here is a slighty more updated picture. Notice that I made it so the water flows into the return area from the bottom, thus avoiding splash, etc.

The only thing I don't know is... is the first baffle on the left really necessary?
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Old 05-07-2007, 04:16 PM   #7
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As long as the Phosban isn't tumbling then it should be fine. The DRS sells a flow meter if you need to know though.

Lowering the baffle on the fuge side isn't going to be an issue since you're only going to be flowing 200-400 gph anyways.

Really the way you have it set up is fine as long as you leave room for 4 gal of water which is really what I was concerned about.
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Old 05-07-2007, 04:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
here is a slighty more updated picture. Notice that I made it so the water flows into the return area from the bottom, thus avoiding splash, etc.
Remember that as water evaps, the water level in the return chamber will drop, causing some splashing into that chamber. Having that "under" on each side of the return will help limit bubbles that make it to the pump. I also found rounding the top edge of the backside of the final "overs" helps water slide down the baffle rather than crash over.
Quote:
he only thing I don't know is... is the first baffle on the left really necessary?
No I don't think so.
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Old 05-07-2007, 04:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT79
Quote:
he only thing I don't know is... is the first baffle on the left really necessary?
No I don't think so.
Missed that but I agree since your skimmer is going to be producing some bubbles as well having a bubble guard isn't pointless but is a waste of space that could be better dedicated to the fuge.
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Old 05-07-2007, 05:23 PM   #10
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Wow... I really appreciate your opinions. It's really helping me out!

This is it without that first baffle. I'm not at home so I don't have photoshop to edit the original. However, fuge would now be closer to 10" wide.

If I get 1/4" thick glass... I should be pretty well off.

I really want to have the bubble trap. I know it could be better used for the FUGE, but NOTHING... I mean NOTHING annoys me more than seeing a million freakin bubbles. Currently, my protein skimmer just pours onto a filter pad.

So, yay or nay? Think this sucker is ready to be wrapped up? 8)
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:35 PM   #11
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Looks good, are you going to use an auto top off unit also?
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:09 PM   #12
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Gonna get an RO/DI unit with float valve... get a hole drilled at about 11"... that's what the people over at http://airwaterice.com/ suggested.

Thank you for your advice... hopefully this will come alive within the next week or so.

EDIT

Alright... something I slightly overlooked. How the water is exactly going to get into the sump. So, I didn't overlook it too much. I already have a tank that's predrilled MegaFlow.

I was planning on making it a straight shot with PVC in the the LR rubble. PVC would go down ~10" into the tank.

I want this to be somewhat quiet, so I don't know if that will create a lot of noise or not.

I thought about this idea from MegaFlow: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...1&N=2004&Nty=1

Basically, we leave the inlet at 2". However, the live rock area is 2" wide and 8" deep. The other 4" in depth is so a pipe can come in and basically create that same effect.

The other option is for water to come in on the sides. However, that would require a bit of tank drilling, etc.

Any advice?
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:49 AM   #13
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The way you have it currently shouldn't be an issue with noise, especially with the drain diverted to the fuge with a ball valve.

How many GPH are you running through the sump. Is it one overflow or two?

11" sounds fine for top off which gives you a minimum of 12 gal in the sump (not including the fuge). How many inches high before it cuts off?
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:03 AM   #14
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One overflow box.

I just noticed something... very interesting.

I have an All-Glass Megaflow 90G.
http://www.all-glass.com/products/aq...megaflow.shtml

It says GPH = 600.

My return pump is doing ~900GPH at 5ft.

This may be an issue in of itself, but it seems like I need to restrict my return pump a bit. Would you agree?
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:08 AM   #15
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One Megaflow will max out at 600 GPH and since your pump is more powerful then your overflow instead of restricting it I'd have your drain from the overflow go straight to your sump and the pump return diverted to flow to your fuge so 300 GPH goes to your fuge and 600 GPH goes to the tank.
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:30 AM   #16
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Now that's a smart idea!

Good thing I didn't get any PVC/plumbing yet. LOL.

I'll get two of those flow meters. One for the phosban reactor and one for the refugium.

10 ft - Vinyl Tubing 3/4"

2 Y Fittings

1 Flare Nozzle for the refugium

2 Ball valves

1.5 ft - 1" PVC pipe to go from overflow STRAIGHT into the middle of the LR rubble.

What about a check valve?

Anything else you could think of?
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:42 AM   #17
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Check Valve is always a good idea on the return line. Rest of it looks good as well although I think you will need more then 10 ft of tubing in the end. I'd get 20 ft just in case.
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:56 AM   #18
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More is always better... thank you so much for your advice! I truly appreciate it!
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