DIY Plywood tank, with INLINE filtration?

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LoogieLV

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Nov 3, 2008
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Hey everyone. Sorry to make my first post a "help me" question one, but you're my only hope.

I've been interested in building a large plywood tank for years, but always been stumped on the best way to filter it. Now i'm getting serious about this project, and decided it's time to figure out. (freshwater tank btw) My overall goal is simplicity and ease of care for the tank. I think i have a design that will accomplish those goals.

Since this will be a plywood tank from scratch, no worries about drilling, etc. My idea was to make my overflow merely just a large pvc pipe (3in diameter or so) with its top at my desired water level. It will extend through the bottom of the tank, and flow into my sump. I figured there's no reason I couldn't throw some filtration right into that pipe and filter it as it falls into the sump. I saw an article where someone used a bunch of plastic type scrubbing pads in a bucket. Those would be the perfect size in diameter to wedge 10 or so one on top of another down inside my overflow pipe. Maybe add some charcoal somewhere and all in all, it wouldn't slow down water flow too much.

I'd seperate the pump in the sump so it always had just a small portion of water to send back up in case the pipe clogged, the pump couldn't transfer the entire contents of the sump back into the main tank. Running dry would destroy the pump no doubt, but better than 30 gallons all over my floor.

Observe my computer graphics skills in the attachment.

The problems I see with this design are a few. 1) There's no resevoir of water to continuously send water down the pipe if the return pump is not able to somewhat keep up with the intake pvc pipe. What I mean is, if the pump is too slow, the water will go over the sides of the pipe sporadically and not continuously, which will play havok on the filtration i imagine. I've been trying to come up with a way to add a resevoir INSIDE THE PIPE, (ie: a drip tray wedged down about a foot inside the pvp pipe to slow down the flow and build up a resevoir) but I think they might be too risky. A better way would be to make sure I have a powerful pump to return water at a very high rate, but not high enough to overtake the pvc filtration. I think that's relatively doable.

The second problem I have, is that I hate the idea of filtering ONLY surface water. We all know the bottom of the tank is where the nastiest stuff lies. The solid chunks of waste and other nasties that need to go. The only way I can see to deal with this, is with a builtin overflow box with a syphon system and the syphon hoses being at the bottom of the tank. I really feel so strongly about it, that I might ditch my simple inline system for a more complicated 2 compartment blah blah system.

Any feedback is very welcome and will be appreciated wholeheartedly. ANY FEEDBACK at all!
 

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How do you coat a plywood tank to keep the water from damaging the wood? I want to build a new home for our turtle but am worried about the thing rotting.
 
How do you coat a plywood tank to keep the water from damaging the wood? I want to build a new home for our turtle but am worried about the thing rotting.
there are tons of resources for designing, building and maintaining a plywood aquarium.

There are lots of things to consider and incorporate into your designs, which I won't get into, but for instance, water weight bowing the plywood and glass out and how to remedy it. Google is your friend. There are enough resources to keep you busy for the next few days :)
 
Thanks for the tips. And sorry to hijack your thread LoogieLV : )
 
I've been through Garf before, when I was on this kick last time, but really, I'm still stumped on how to get my system overflowing and pumped back in in a way I described above. Anything think my plan fails, or is a good one, just in need of some new ideas?
 
well you can do a short drain and a tall drain in the sump area and use bulk heads if you dont want to see the pipes
View attachment 15986

try this here is the link to make the drain. its dead silent im using one in my 200g cube tank.

Stockton Standpipe - CVR Forums!
I appreciate the input, however wont that design fail and overflow if the power goes out?

edit: as in flowing back through the lower pipe down into the sump?
 
well you can just use the one tall one put some power heads in the tank and have them flow across the bottom. dont have an issue in either of my tanks with debris on the bottom
 
well you can just use the one tall one put some power heads in the tank and have them flow across the bottom. dont have an issue in either of my tanks with debris on the bottom
how big are they? does the debris float up and then skim over the top?
 
i just bought 4 power heads from walmart. yes they just float up and for whats left over my sand bed (fw turtle tank) takes care of the rest as far as breaking it down. i also have 2x fluval fx5 on the tank too
 
i just bought 4 power heads from walmart. yes they just float up and for whats left over my sand bed (fw turtle tank) takes care of the rest as far as breaking it down. i also have 2x fluval fx5 on the tank too

any pics or anything? i've seen your name around here (been lurking for awhile) but dont recall seeing anything. I'd love to see what you did.
 
no pictures yet my camera is broken dropped it in my lr tank :-? go figure huh. still in my cube build process
 
Your design is sound.

The overflowing part (getting it to drain into the sump) is done by the pump that is pushing water from the sump back into the tank. A 1" PVC pipe will handle about 600gph. The key is to match your pump to the plumbing you use. This is the same basic principle as in any SW tank. My tank for instance has dual overflows that handle 1000gph each. I have 3 return pumps that allow for just under 2000gph return so my overflows can handle the water flow.

Since you are doing a plywood tank you can easily accomidate any amount of flow you want. BTW the short pipe is a bad idea. If your pump fails or the power goes out your tank will drain down to that level. You want your overflow pipes to be plumbed all the way to the top of the tank.

I've read a great thread of a plywood tank that I will look for for you. The guy built the "box" and then extended a coast to coast overflow all the way across the back of the tank so there was no piping inside the tank itself. By doing something like this you will get maximum surface skimming and excellent flow.
 
Your design is sound.

The overflowing part (getting it to drain into the sump) is done by the pump that is pushing water from the sump back into the tank. A 1" PVC pipe will handle about 600gph. The key is to match your pump to the plumbing you use. This is the same basic principle as in any SW tank. My tank for instance has dual overflows that handle 1000gph each. I have 3 return pumps that allow for just under 2000gph return so my overflows can handle the water flow.

Since you are doing a plywood tank you can easily accomidate any amount of flow you want. BTW the short pipe is a bad idea. If your pump fails or the power goes out your tank will drain down to that level. You want your overflow pipes to be plumbed all the way to the top of the tank.

I've read a great thread of a plywood tank that I will look for for you. The guy built the "box" and then extended a coast to coast overflow all the way across the back of the tank so there was no piping inside the tank itself. By doing something like this you will get maximum surface skimming and excellent flow.

i'm excited to see you taking an interest in my cry for help Ziggy. thank you for that.

I think I'm ditching the idea of the plumbing popping down through the bottom, and since i'm building the tank, i'll incorporate a built in overflow compartment out of site complete with a top and bottom intake.

My idea would be to extend the tank 6 inches from left to right (the new six inches being the overflow and filtration), pop a wood divider in there that goes the entire length from back to front of the tank.
Add a notch with teeth on the top for a skimmer, and a notch with screen on the bottom for bottom debris.
Then compartmentalize the new 6 inch section off with baffles (for lack of a better word) with the compartments having prefilters and other cleaning items before finally having a standpipe or 2 take it down to the sump.

No need for syphons. Does this make sense or am I missing something. It can't be this simple...
 
the reason fo the sump is for all the filtration to go there. its going to be a pita to clean al the pre filters you want to make. its going to make a nitrifying factory there. i would do a coast to coast and have all your filtration in the sump.
 
So you think ditch the prefilter ideas? I dont really see how it would be hard to clean the prefilters. I was just thinking some sponges and screens and whatever else would fit that would help keep it clean.

I drew up two plans, just to make sure I have your opinion correct. The top was somewhat my idea. The sizes are all wrong and the prefilter compartments would be bigger allowing me to fit my hands in there from the top, but you get the idea. Blue is water, and when looking from the side, the blue shows the spillways into the OF.

Then just to make sure i got yours right, i drew it up w/ o the prefilters or baffles etc. Am i on the right track?

You said coast to coast though. Do you think that's more beneficial? The reason I dont really like the whole back idea is because on a tank of this size, thats one BIIIIG OverFlow compartment. Overkill really. I dont have to extend the OF all the way to the bottom of the tank, but then I kill my idea of taking water/debris from the bottom easier.

Am I close or way off?

btw, I really REALLY appreciate your guys help and just general knowledge of this. Anything you offer is great and truly appreciated. I'm treating this conversation as just some good old fashioned dialogue, as if we were brainstorming in a pub somewhere. So if it feels like I'm demanding advice, or not willing to help myself, I assure you, that is not the case. I'm enjoying this conversation and if you get bored with it, I have NO problems with that.
 

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well you second design is pretty good. i would not use the prefilters in there as the clog up fast and slowing you overflow and now your pump is draining your sump into the tank. then you get water everywhere. as for the sump you can put a filter sock there. i would have 2 that way it makes for easy changing. and you can just wash those in the washing machine w/o soap. on hot.
 
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