Diy stand/rack critique and build journal of sorts

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jennandjuicetm

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May 29, 2014
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So I have no carpentry skills but my fiance is pretty handy. He has the tools we would need to build a stand so I am just trying to work out lumber needs and an actual plan as to where to place the supports and whatnot. The idea came from the videos by the diyKing on YouTube. This is basically what I want.
 

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Thanks! I will PM him when I get home this evening!

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I drew up "directions" of a sort to help me figure out how much lumber and what cuts I would need. Ignore the doodles. Sorry if you can't understand my babbling, I'm a little all over the place. I changed the width to 54" to make my math easier. Lol
 

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Sketch looks ok, use deck screws and make sure any 2x4 carrying weight should have a jack underneath, plywood will be great in reducing the wobble factor.. take pictures as the build progresses and I'll let you know how it looks! Good luck!

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I tried to Google what a Jack is but got mostly nowhere. My guess would be extra support. Can you explain further?

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I tried to Google what a Jack is but got mostly nowhere. My guess would be extra support. Can you explain further?

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You are correct; a jack stud is a weight bearing, supporting stud. If you refer to the first image in the following link, it will display a jack stud (along with a king stud and cripple stud) within the framing structure of a window: http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/framing_a_window.html.
Basically, use wood to bear the weight rather than relying on fasters (nails/screws). I am not saying not to use fasteners, just don't use them to support the weight. Hope that makes sense.
 
You are correct; a jack stud is a weight bearing, supporting stud. If you refer to the first image in the following link, it will display a jack stud (along with a king stud and cripple stud) within the framing structure of a window: http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/framing_a_window.html.
Basically, use wood to bear the weight rather than relying on fasters (nails/screws). I am not saying not to use fasteners, just don't use them to support the weight. Hope that makes sense.

Need a.job bro? If all the guys under stood that 1000 nails can't replace a good jack.. anyways, fresh nailed it! Heh.. you'll want to use the screws to keep everything tight and rigid but all the weight is going to fall on the frame (studs, Jacks) there are some great you tube videos out there with step by step instructions. .

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Need a.job bro? If all the guys under stood that 1000 nails can't replace a good jack.. anyways, fresh nailed it! Heh.. you'll want to use the screws to keep everything tight and rigid but all the weight is going to fall on the frame (studs, Jacks) there are some great you tube videos out there with step by step instructions. .

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I'm not a carpenter but I slept in a Holiday Inn last night...sounds tempting though.
Years ago I helped my brother put up a wall as part of an expansion to his house and he explained the roles of each stud.
Kudos for DIY on this.
 
Haha, good to know how to do some stuff yourself, save money paying guys like me to come do it for you..

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Those notches are great for sure. Just take care not to over cut the 2x4's, this will weaken the overall structure..

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It looks like it would be harder to be sure that the stand is level. Am I over thinking it?
Also, another question. Say I build a stand, make it level, etc. What if my floor isn't level? Would an oppositely levelled stand from the floor weaken the stand?

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Most floors arnt level, use shim shingles to accomplish true level.. if I were.to build a rack? I wouldn't bother notching. I'd use the 3 " deck screws and jacks. End result would be a beefier rack.. less prone to wobble as well..

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It looks like it would be harder to be sure that the stand is level. Am I over thinking it?
Also, another question. Say I build a stand, make it level, etc. What if my floor isn't level? Would an oppositely levelled stand from the floor weaken the stand?

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As long as all the measurements and cuts are consistent you should be fine. Consistent cuts as in the edge of the cut should be on the same side of the pencil mark each time (assuming the blade bite is thicker than the pencil mark).
I would make the stand level because you may end up moving it and address the leveling through the use of shims.
 
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