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Old 11-15-2013, 04:39 PM   #1
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Double tank stand

I want to build a stand for 2 tanks. On top will be a 55 gallon and on bottom will be a 20 long. Here is pic of my design. Let me know what you guys think.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:51 PM   #2
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While I am confident this design would hold those two tanks I would add supports for the bottom shelf so that you are not relying just on screws and glue to hold the bottom tank. Think four additional legs that go just inside of your current four legs from underneath the bottom shelf to the floor. You could also add similar supports going from the bottom of the top shelf to the top of the bottom shelf. These supports aren't really needed for support but would help in attaching the top shelf to the legs and would provide additional side load strength. I hope that is clearer than mud, my technical writing skills are lacking.
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:09 PM   #3
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I get what your saying. Maybe ill upgrade to a 4x4 and notch out a slot for the second self instead of using 2 2x4's. I think it would look better.
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:32 AM   #4
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I get what your saying. Maybe ill upgrade to a 4x4 and notch out a slot for the second self instead of using 2 2x4's. I think it would look better.
4x4s warp bad. You would he much better suited with 2 2x4s.
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:38 AM   #5
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It looks fine but consider working room. It is horrible to try and work in a tank without enough clearance to easily do it. I would think close to 1ft of clearance would be the minimum I would want for working room on a display tank.
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Old 11-16-2013, 10:53 AM   #6
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You will need to either put cross bracing in the back or a piece of plywood to prevent the stand from "racking". Racking is side to side movement that over time may make the stand collapse. This is especially important because the 55 gallon is going on top, making the whole set up top heavy. You can drill the plywood for hoses, electrical etc.

You will be fine with 2x4 construction, I would also add 2x4 cross braces under each shelf at 16" on center. This will support the tank better and help keep everything tight.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:04 AM   #7
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For clearance on the bottom tank the highest part that sticks up is my lid when open all the way so I took that and added 4 inches so I have plenty of working room. The stand is also deep enough so that the hob filter is inside the stand. As for racking the 2x4's holding the second self up will prevent the side to side motion. My gf has a cat that likes looking at my tank and hitting it. Even though I yell at him. So around the bottom tank I will have a thin acrylic sheet on front and both sides that will be on hinges and have a latch to keep the cat off the tank and allow access to all sides.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:11 AM   #8
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As for racking the 2x4's holding the second self up will prevent the side to side motion.
You need the diagonal support to prevent it from racking, I was just giving you advice from my experience in construction.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:18 AM   #9
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You need the diagonal support to prevent it from racking, I was just giving you advice from my experience in construction.
I know. I just don't really want to close in the back of the stand. I could run a 2x4 diagonally across the back. Make a x running from corner to corner. That would leave the back open and give the added support. Think that would work?
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:24 AM   #10
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Yes that's called cross bracing. You could also get 1"x1/8"x by whatever length you need metal at Home Depot and use that so it will be less noticeable. BTW, I live in NY will be moving to Richmond by the first of December.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:41 PM   #11
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Here is the stand so far. Took about an hour and a half to cut and piece together. It's solid as a rock with no wobble or anything. Put together using 2-1/2" screws.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:42 PM   #12
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Usually helps to add the pic. Lol
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:17 PM   #13
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Cut pockets on legs, top shelf will be ok.
I used 3x2 and 1 1/2x1 3/4 cross brace, no diagonal, fixed back to wall at top.

3/4 ply shelf.

See, new fish house in new acquisitions. There are pics detailing carpentry, alternatively follow link to my flickr for all build pics on my fish house.

Shelf good for 200 kg each, tested, four years no failure.
Original design worked well enough I re-used it on the second build.
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:33 PM   #14
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Weight transfer supported only by the spike. Typically a butt joint is not used for load bearing applications.
In a situation where a butt joint is the only way a metal joist hanger is used. Rafters etc.

Tank will be kgs? Include glass/water/rocks.

The pockets will transfer weight load through the legs allowing for reduced profile timber stock.


As far as I can see weight transfer is only supported by stub legs.
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:04 PM   #15
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Weight transfer supported only by the spike. Typically a butt joint is not used for weight bearing applications. In a situation where a butt joint is the only way a joist hanger is used. Rafters etc. Tank will be kgs? The pockets will transfer weight load through the legs allowing for reduced profile timber stock. As far as I can see weight transfer is only supported by stub legs.
In each corner there is another 2 x 4 that will be below the top piece to support the load directly to the floor. Only a 20 gallon tank will be on the bottom. I am going to add a brace in the center of the top and bottom shelves
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:08 PM   #16
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In each corner there is another 2 x 4 that will be below the top piece to support the load directly to the floor. Only a 20 gallon tank will be on the bottom. I am going to add a brace in the center of the top and bottom shelves
Yes it's a pocket, not easy to see from original pic. Should work fine. The front length is supported by the stub leg notch.

That is the front/rear?
If not, same for front/rear, most weight will be transferred through longest timber length in a design like this.

4 more stub legs. I see some spare stock. Should match in nice enough.

I see the picture as F = front rear S = side

Bottom tank weight 20 gal 76kgs plus glass and rocks.
Call it 120kg. Min. Approx 265 lb

It may be safe enough as it is. I wouldn't trust that weight.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:00 PM   #17
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Here is it finished. Later I will be putting hinged acrylic around the front and sides for the bottom since my gf has a cat that will bother the tank. But for now it will just have the 20 on top till I get the acrylic and I finish fixing up my 55 gallon tank (needs new trim). I didn't add any support to the front and back of the bottom shelf yet. I will add a piece just like the side one as added support
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:08 PM   #18
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Easy fix, piece of mind. I like the background of the top shot, loads of tanks!
My kind of house!
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:14 PM   #19
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Easy fix, piece of mind. I like the background of the top shot, loads of tanks! My kind of house!
im going to breed Plecos with my tanks also need to separate my 2 angel fish. I got the new 55 for free There was one tank not in the pic but that's my roommates.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:59 PM   #20
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im going to breed Plecos with my tanks also need to separate my 2 angel fish. I got the new 55 for free There was one tank not in the pic but that's my roommates.
Look for a chap called surfer, ask for advice if you don't know anything, he breeds plecs. Tell him, the beardy C sent you! He's a New Yorker. I'm British.
I met him on this site, I'm a serious plec fan, that is what started the conversation between us, helping someone with plec health concerns. Plecostomus has bloated stomach, I think the thread was.
He may or may not be able to offer assistance, you may even be able to help him I don't know? Either way, birds of a feather etc!

I got 2 free tanks, the rest I made. Free tanks are great!
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