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Old 01-14-2013, 08:51 PM   #1
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got a new aquarium nowhere to put it

ok I need to make a "cheap" stand for a 30 gallon bow front aquarium I just bought. only saw a have is a cheap skill circular saw.

I figured I would make a rectangular base but don't know about the top with the aquarium being a bow front

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Old 01-14-2013, 09:57 PM   #2
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Ok would this hold a 30 gallon bow front.

6 2x4s for legs
The rest is 1x4s
The dotted lines are just filler 1x4s so I can put doors on it later

Sorry about the drawing I'm not very good at it.

And then I figured I would use plywood for the top and bottom not sure what size
Unless someone has a cheaper way to make a top and bottom.
Also thought of using 3/4x12 and butting them together to make top and bottom what you think?

I'm planning on making it 28" high


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Old 01-15-2013, 12:33 PM   #3
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Dont use 1x4s. Use 2x4s all the way around. make a square base of 2x4 on the bottom. Double up 2x4s for the legs, then a 2x4 square top (that mirrors the base). Frame the whole thing with 2x4s and use simpson strong ties to bind the 2x4s to eachother at each joint. Don't trust your tank to 1x4s and screws alone.

Once you have it framed out pick out a nice 4x8 sheet of 5/8" birch plywood for the exterior. Pick up some 1/4 round moulding for the corners if you want rounded corners or some iron-on veneer if you just want flush corners. All this can be done with just a circular saw. If you want to make a stand to fit your tank exactly, you can get a decent jigsaw for $30.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:42 PM   #4
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I read your OP again and it occurred to me that you may be going for functionality+minimal cost rather than a nice piece of furniture. If that is the case (you don't care about looks at all) pick up some cinder blocks and get a big piece of 2" styrofoam - for the "top" of your "stand". Stack the cinders like you would for holding any type of load, lay the styrofoam across to make a table. The tank can then be set directly on the styrofoam. Make sure the cynder block legs are diectly under the sides of the tank to carry the weight. The styrofoam will act as an insulator as well as leveling out the tank and distributing the weight of your tank. Solid styrofoam is a lot stronger than you probably realize. The weight of your tank is bared around the sides. You will notice that the bottom of the clenter of the glass actually doesn't touch anything. This will work for you as well and won't cost anything (well much of anything).
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:07 PM   #5
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Have you considered steel shelving like this?


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I have a one with three shelves and 10mm mdf shelves. Cost $40 and holds 150kg per shelf.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:10 PM   #6
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I've made a stand out of some blocks and wood stacked up, okay it doesn't look anything special but painted black its quite unobtrusive and is super strong (my boyfriend sat on it to test and it took his 'more to cuddle' weight no problem!). I guess if you were more DIY minded than myself you could make a decorative cover for it?

I used 6 blocks (9" x 9" x 12") and 4 x 3' lengths of I think 1" x 6" wood, which altogether I think cost me around £15 so really quite cheap. I painted everything black first, then after they had dried just arranged the blocks in two 'towers' with two pieces of wood making a shelf on top of the first block for my small tank, then two more blocks before topping it with another two pieces of wood to support my large tank. I also have a piece of polystyrene/styrofoam under each tank. Let me know if you want any pictures of what I've done
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mumma.of.two View Post
Have you considered steel shelving like this?

I have a one with three shelves and 10mm mdf shelves. Cost $40 and holds 150kg per shelf.
Would that stand hold 400lbs on one shelf? I'm measured the tank and its 37 gallon so your looking at least 370lbs
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:33 AM   #8
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I'm sure there would be one somewhere if you have a look around. I have a 26g on one rated 150kg/330lb per self.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:42 AM   #9
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I think I'm just going to make a stand 30.5x18.5 with a 3/4" top
The aquarium is 30x 15 that way I don't have to cut the top I can but 2 pieces of 1x10s together to give me 18.5 inches
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwandrsn View Post
Ok would this hold a 30 gallon bow front.

6 2x4s for legs
The rest is 1x4s
The dotted lines are just filler 1x4s so I can put doors on it later

Sorry about the drawing I'm not very good at it.

And then I figured I would use plywood for the top and bottom not sure what size
Unless someone has a cheaper way to make a top and bottom.
Also thought of using 3/4x12 and butting them together to make top and bottom what you think?

I'm planning on making it 28" high


Attachment 144350
If you're going to build your stand based off of your drawings, which are pretty good, I would suggest adding 2 vertical pieces in each corner wedged between the top and bottom frames.

So for example, you have a top frame and bottom frame both screwed into the 6 vertical pieces of lumber. Now, take 8 more pieces of lumber cut to the exact length between the top and bottom frame.

In your drawings, the weight of the aquarium will be resting on the screws that are securing your top frame to the vertical pieces of lumber. These additional pieces of lumber that I'm suggesting will take the weight off the screws.

The additional pieces I'm referring to are the purple supports in this picture:
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:01 PM   #11
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Ok here is what I made 2x4 legs 1x4 frame 1x10 top

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Old 01-17-2013, 12:17 PM   #12
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awesome bottom shelf can be for a 10g...lol...that's what I did hehehehhe my top is a 40b and bottom is a 20H
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:21 PM   #13
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Eventually I'm gonna wrap it with paneling and build a door for it. For now its covered with a black twin size sheet
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:30 AM   #14
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Relatively simple but effective build. Can see that it's well supported. I'm in carpentry so the finishing would be easy but I'm trying to come up with an open cabinet design. This gives me a better idea of how to do it. What the wife wants she gets if it means a tank in the livingroom
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:45 AM   #15
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mine could be used as an open design. Countersink the screws and use pieces of a wooden dowel to fill in the holes and stain the whole thing. I used 2 1x10s butted together for the top they were like $8 or so for 6 foot pieces . I used 2 for the top and bottom. They sell 3/4x20 boards for $26 or so. so I went the cheaper route. Cost $40 for the lumber and a 1lb box of star drive decking screws. I'm tax exempt so add tax to that
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:51 AM   #16
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One thing I learned is 1x4 strips are not as tall as 2x4s. I knew a 2x4 is 3-1/2 the 1x4 furring strips were about 3-1/4? Kinda confused me. I used 2x4s for center brace for the top and bottom and the bottom one had to be ripped down so the shelf sat flat never used 1x4 furring strips before
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:24 AM   #17
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I'm thinking of making mine out of solid maple. I have a 30 gallon that needs a home. I will start a new thread when I begin to build it. Need to finish moving the laundryroom first
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:31 AM   #18
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Yeah I'm gonna countersink the top screws and wrap it with paneling and bold a door then paint the whole thing. I was in a hurry to get it built.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:56 AM   #19
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There may not be enough depth to countersink and plug the screw holes. The screw might be near the other side of the board that the strength maybe lost. Another option is the countersink in about 1/8" and fill with filler. You can make your own filler with sawdust and wood glue. That will match the spruce and will accept the stain as well
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:57 AM   #20
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And can be sanded
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