Gorilla glue is waterproof, has a long open time, bonds dissimilar materials effectively, creates a rigid glue line, absorbs solvent-based stains well, and sands without clogging abrasives. It has the strength and durability of an epoxy, but is a one-part system. It can be used for interior and exterior applications, except for gap-filling bonds where structural integrity is a factor. It is suitable for marine applications. For underwater uses, dried glue joints must be covered with a protective coating (e.g., paint, varnish).
Outdoor Work: PU will easily endure the regular soakings and high humidity to which outdoor projects are exposed. This glue also possesses good resistance to the effects of ultraviolet light. Gorilla glue is less water resistant than epoxy, but passes the same ANSI test as a Type I PVA (e.g., Titebond III®). It is considerably more water resistant than a Type II PVA (e.g., Titebond II®).
Safety Precautions: HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED OR INHALED. May cause sensitization by inhalation, irritating to eyes and skin. Use in well-ventilated room. Avoid eye and skin contact. Will stain skin. Wear protective gloves, such as nitrile, natural rubber or polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) chemical-resistant gloves. Wear safety glasses or face shield. Do not use product while wearing contact lenses.
First Aid
Contains: 4,4'-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate + isomeres + homopolymer CAS #9016-87-9.
Not something I would risk in my tank, and needs to be covered, as it is not made for immersion by itself...unless you are talking about the gorilla glue super glue, which only contains cyanoacrylate, which I believe is what you need in a crazy glue formula in a tank use.
Ingredients: CAS No. OSHA PEL ACGIH TLV Other limits % Composition
Ethyl Cyanoacrylate 7085-85-0 N/A 0.2ppm TWA 0.3ppm STEL 86-100
