Metal Halide/Power Compact DIY - N00b Needs Help

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noteworthy

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Feb 21, 2004
Messages
376
Location
Texas
Hey!

I really want to upgrade my lighting from my 40w NO on my 55 fowlr. I'm going to build a canopy to put over my tank and I'm looking into DIY metal halide because I refuse to pay $$$ for something that could be done myself.

I would like to keep an anemone in the future about half a year down the road when my tank settles more. If my starfish ever passes on I can add corals.

I know I need a ballast and I looking for something cheap with lots of wattage. I found a previous post that mentioned this one:
http://prolighting.com/sousm400q-k.html

I also need a bulb. How is this?
http://prolighting.com/mh400-u.html

The aluminum guard I'm not sure what I need exactly. Also would I be better off with the tube shaped lights. I know MH is also better because of the more focused light it penetrates the water better. I would like to add moon light leds with a cheap 30 dollar kit.

What would you guys recommend? I've never really build lights but I did replace a ballast on my mom's 10 gallon tank that went out.

As for cooling I am very familiar with computers but not so much with using A/C. Would I have to buy a converter and hook a couple of 80 or 120mm fans to the canopy to expel light?

On my canopy I'm thinking 15 inches tall or so.


Please help a noob.
 
I bought my MH retro kits and cooling fan kits from captivereefs.com. They very easy to wire etc. If you want to do the fans yourself all you need is a transformer with the correct volt/amps. The fan kits are nice because they have a built in thermometer and do not run constantly. I bought my moon light kit from ledworx on ebay. Also very easy all you need is soldering iron and solder. I ripped a 1"piece of the low gauge pvc down the middle to make my moonlights. Drilled the holes small and the LEDs just pressure fit in.
 
couple quick questions and comments.

Is your canopy going to rest on top of the tank or will it be suspended, like a big pendent light? If you'll be suspending it you'll want to consider the weight of the materials used but you wont have to worry as much about heat. If it will rest on the tank, you don't need to worry as much about weight, but you'll need to do more to keep it cool.


There are a number of AC driven fans, check radio shack. I bought an 4" box fan the same style as you would see in a PC case, at radio shack for 9 or 10 dollars IIRC. Just used an old appliance cord, put a fuse in line and it was all set.


(also, going to move this to the DIY forum for proper placement and better exposure)
 
Thank you for moving my thread. I wasn't aware of the other forum subject.

Am I right thinking one bulb is enough in the center? On 5 tap it shows multiple wattages supported. Does that mean I should run two 200w bulbs from the same ballast or just one 400 watt?

My canopy will rest on top of the tank. So I will need to get an AC fan or wire one in from captive reefs.


I see some retro kits on captive reefs for 240. From what i see I can have the same thing for about 100 if I buy it all seperate and wire it together.
 
Ive asked the same question.. 3 foot is the maximum for a MH bulb to cover.. so youll need two for your 55..
the 5 tap ballasts should show multiple voltages.. magnetic ballasts are only designed to be used with one bulb. There are some electronics that are designed for multiple bulbs though..
from my reaserch.. depending on what type of bulb you use.. the ballasts will run you minium around ~$120 for two.. If you want to buy prefab. reflectors.. the best price ive seen on those is $60 for two (I think these can be DIYed by the way).... then the bulbs.. the prices run the gammit performance costs $$ (then again the wrong spectrium can cost $ as well)
Im not positive on how long MH bulbs last for reef use, Ive gotten multiple answers on that question making this desision tough for me (wether or not to do MH). If they last on average 3 years say, then the project would be worth ALOT more to me..
I hope this helps..
I would say you would be fine with a pair of 175watt bulbs for clams and sps... maybe some LPS on the bottom.. I would shade mushrooms and low light softies with this setup.. just my oppinon though.
 
Well would you guys think of Power Compact as a better option? I really want to keep the costs down but putting in two bulbs and two ballasts really jack up the price.

I want to keep anemones and corals down the road. I've always read you should have MH though for anemones.
 
If your tank is taller then 20 inches then Id be willing to say yes.. MH would be one of your only options.. T-5 HO's and or PC would be an option.. but depending on MH usefull lifespan they might be more expensive long term..
what coarls are you intrested in? SPS? LPS? Soft? mixed?
 
In other words.. Im asking a question in your question.. sorry.. a bit of a hijack.

What is the average usefull lifespan of MH bulbs for reef use?..
Maybe SW general discussion would get this answered faster..?
 
I like the LPS and soft corals.

The water depth in my tank is 17-18" but suspending it 7 inches off the water would have some more effect on it I suppose?
 
that will be a tough mix.. :D good luck.

You wont need to suspend T-5 HO's or PC's near that far off the surfase of your water.. you could put them in a DIY striplight with some fans and be fine (a couple of inches from the surfase tops, most likely less)
 
Enough of them and good reflectors.. like the ones ahsuppy sells.. yes.. I think it would work.. you might want a second opinion on that.. I could PM someone I think would agree.. LOL
Sorry.. bad joke.. :D
 
I think thats expensive.. I cant see the reflector, it doesnt advertize the effecency of the reflector.. thats a bad sign.. if it as 95%+ effecent they would be advertizing it..

the ahsupply reflectors are 95% reflective.. almost as good as T-5
 
So I'm looking at this:

Part 40962 - 2 x 96 watt Bright Kit
Includes one 24 ounce solid-state electronic ballast (18.5"L x 1.7"W x 1"H); one 34.5"L x 7"W x 2"H multi-angle MIRO 4 polished aluminum reflector; two moisture-resistant endcaps with cords; four steel bulb holders; one grounding power cord: wirenuts and screws needed for installation; snap bushing, cord strain relief bushing, cord clamps and nylon spacers; and ballast operation information and wiring diagram. Requires two 96watt compact fluorescent bulbs (not included). NOTE - If you want to be able to control the bulbs separately you'll need two 1x96w kits #40961 instead of this 2x96w kit #40962. Also NOTE - You may substitute two 34.5"L x 4"W reflectors for the one 34"L x 7"W reflector that normally comes with this 2x96w kit. Just request the substitution in the Special Instructions section at the end of the order form.
Price: $114.99

Part 11961 - 96watt 10,000K Compact Fluorescent Bulb
Sometimes called purified super-daylight, this is a daylight bulb with a slightly bluish cast and is very attractive in a marine setup.
Price: $32.99

Part 11967 - 96watt Bright Blue Compact Bulb
Bright Blue actinic light. Combine this bulb 1-to-1 or 1-to-2 with daylight bulbs for marine aquarium use. Peak output at 430nm with almost all output between 400nm and 500nm.
Price: $32.99 Sale Price: $26.99

Thats 175 for a complete setup to install. 2 x 96 w.. one blue actinic and one pure daylight. Will the dual kit work or should I get two singles. I don't really think I'll need the benefit of setting up both lights on seperate timers.

Will I still need an exhaust fan for the canopy with PC lights?
 
you can use the 65 watt bulbs in the 55watt kits (same ballast) the 96watt kits are more expensive (the reflectors cost more)
you might want to go with more bulbs with CF.. you might need to move to lower K values in areas to get more light for your high light needs inhabitants, like the anems.

And after pricing PC you could see where some ebay MH bulbs (~$25) a DIY MH reflector and magnetic ballasts could very well be cheaper.. LOL expesialy if the bulbs last for 2-3 years.
 
If it were me, I would go with the LT-ES53206 (4x55/65) and put in two 10k bulbs and two actinic. Later when you plan on getting into higher light corals/anenomes (which will likely be a year or so if you take the advice of this board) you can then add two MH bulbs to your hood.

This will give you plenty of output for now and plenty of room to grow when you're ready for the MH. Simply put all actinic in the PC and use 2x150 watt MH 10k. Spreading out your costs makes it easier to get better equipment for each part.


In terms of cooling, if you go with just PC at first cooling the hood is "less" important but still certainly important. Bulb life can be greatly improved by keeping them cool.
 
Are you suggesting the kit that comes with 4 bulbs on captivereefs? How is the reflector on that? Acceptable? Or do you mean to buy the ballast etc parts from that kit?

I have also been looking at T5 HO bulbs with reflectors. Ballast is 50 bucks but it will run 4 of the 54w bulbs. I can do two 10,000 and one actinic. T5's get better surface penetration on water. What exactly is better about PC lights?
 
Im not BillyZ.. but from my reaserch..
PC lamps have been on the market longer and most think you can find bulbs for cheaper (from what Ive found the bulbs are about the same price), they are less effecent to use as far as reflectors go, designing a effecent reflector for a strait bulb is much easer then for a bent one, compared to T-5 HO.
If you want to keep hi light needs coarls and clams you will want some 6500K or Sun bulbs and maybe some 1200K for looks.. If you used 3 you could keep LPS IMO and 4 SPS and clams (but I really doubt that you would have much luck keeping mushroom coarls and some of the softies with the 4 T-5HO setup, people have had a hard time keeping them, the light intensity is to high) you could switch out to bluer bulbs for less light needing coarls but T-5 HO kinda makes you make a desison as to what inhabitants can live together without needing to make drastic changes (with MH you can just move the lower light needs corals away from the point sorce light, T-5 HO isnt point sorce you have to shade the corals, get less intense bulbs or plan ahead and keep critters with similar needs together)
 
I do like the idea of not 'limiting' myself by using Power Compacts. T5 bulbs take the length of the aquarium and would not allow me to focus my light in certain directions. I'm thinking I can DIY a PC setup like the 180 dollar one on captive reefs. 4 x 65w - 2 actinic and 2 10,000.

Are you saying reflectors do not play a major role in PC because the bulbs are not round?


Down the road I could add MH.
 
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