Need some input on DIY plumbing

[NickRummy]

I am finally ready to do some plumbing but want to get a game plan first.

The tank is a 65g with an overflow built in but the person I got it from didn't have the bulkheads that go on the bottom piece of glass. There are (2) holes. One is a 1.76" which seems to be for a 1" bulk head and the other is a 1.48" which seems to be for a 3/4" bulk head. I was told the 1" bulk head should be good for about 600gph correct?

My question is, can I get the plumbing parts from Lowe's for this setup? Mainly something to use for bulkheads? I am using an MTC HSA-250 skimmer that will be sitting in a 20g breeder tank I'm adding baffles to. I'd like to run hard lines to as much as possible. I have a Mag 7 for the return pump which should be able to do around 425gph with the 48" head height. Should I try and get closer to 600gph? I have a Mag 9.5 but was told that would be best used on the skimmer. I'd like to go ahead and make one of the Durso standpipes. Those look like a nice edition to have.

I'd also like to maybe have the exit of the return line in the top of the tank have 2 outputs? I think that should be pretty easy but it should make for some better circulation in the tank?

Any and all suggestions and opinions are welcome! I'm very new to all this and trying to absorb as much info as possible. I'll most like have some basic drawings tomorrow sketched up of what I plan on doing that I can post to make things a bit clearer.

 

[mr_X]

a 1.5" bulkhead is about 700 gph i thought.
if that's the case, then you are going to be draining 400 gph or so.

you can get all of the 1" stuff from lowes, but you might have a little trouble finding some of the 3/4" 90s and 45s.

 

[NickRummy]

The 1.75" hole will fit a 1.5" bulk head?

 

[reflex1]

a 1.5" bulkhead is about 700 gph i thought.
if that's the case, then you are going to be draining 400 gph or so.

you can get all of the 1" stuff from lowes, but you might have a little trouble finding some of the 3/4" 90s and 45s.

Shouldn't have any problems with the 90's and 45's at Lowe's or Home Depot.

 

[NickRummy]

Ok guys I've read a little more into it. Still need some input on what I can use for bulkheads though.

The MTC recommends a SEN 700 pump to run the HSA-250 skimmer. That's rated for 700gph so I think I'm just going to use my Mag 7 to drive that. Which means I can use my Mag 9.5 for the return pump. I will use a ball valve on the Mag 9.5 to control the flow.

I've attached how my sump will be setup. would you guys recommend using vinyl tubing from Lowe's or would you make it rigid PVC?

 

[mr_X]

vinyl tubing (not clear) will have less friction and less head loss than hard piping, due to all the elbows that are needed. also, if you want to move stuff around, you can easily with flexible pipe.

 

[NickRummy]

I do like the idea of using something flexible.

For the plumbing that would be coming from the tank and draining into the sump, can the tubing go all the way to the bottom of the sump tank or should it be cut short above water level?

It looks like some people are making DIY bulkheads using male and female PVS adapters and putting a rubber gasket in between. How reliable is that?

 

[mr_X]

i would have the tubing go below the water level, or it's gonna sound like niagra falls!

no DIY bulkheads!

here. if you can't find them locally:
Bulkheads - Glass-Holes.com dope aquarium stuff

btw, hot tub and pond supply stores usually have them.

 

[NickRummy]

Thanks! When they mention "slip" what is that for? Is it meant for something to be glued into place? I think I'd go with a threaded fitting even if I'm going to use flexible tubing.

 

[jsoong]

Yes, "slip" are for glue-up jobs. Use threaded parts wherever you can so you can take them apart for cleaning.

You can find a barbed to thread fitting to connect flex hoses to threaded fittings. I have also seen locked barbed fitting ... It has a threaded cover over the barbed part to lock everything in place so the flex hose can't come off even if you pull on it.

 

[NickRummy]

I really like the idea of the locked barb fitting. I think I've used other items that are similar. I found a local saltwater shop that has bulk heads in stock so I'm going to see what they have after work.

 

[NickRummy]

I picked up a couple bulkheads but didn't like the way they worked. They fit the tank great but all they had were slip on fittings for the inside of the tank. I thought about just gluing in PVC pipe to the fittings since they can still be taken out by removing the bulkhead but couldn't find any PVC pipe that fit well into the smaller 3/4" bulkhead. I'm trying another place today for different bulks.

Do you guys just use Schedule 40 PVC piping for the plumbing? I read somewhere someone used schedule 26 since it has a thinner wall and larger inner diameter so did some reading. Here's what I came up with for PVC piping sizes. Looks like they all have the same OD, the wall thickness and inner diameter change. If I can find schedule 21 or 26 locally that would be the best to use right? I'm going to use a mix of PVC and flexible hose.

PVC Schedule 80
3/4" Nom - 1.05" OD / 0.724" ID
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 0.935" ID

PVC Schedule 40
3/4" Nom - 1.05" OD / 0.81" ID
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 1.033" ID

PVC SDR Schedule 21 (can handle 200psi @ 73.4F)
3/4" Nom - 1.05" OD / 0.91" ID
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 1.169" ID

PVC SDR Schedule 26 (can handle 160psi @ 73.4F)
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 1.175" ID

 

[jsoong]

You can convert a slip bulkhead to thread by gluing on a schedule 40 threaded coupler to the slip joint ... but if you can find threaded bulkhead, it would be cheaper (and less work.)

I would not disconnect the bulkhead too many times for cleaning. After a while the gasket may wear out & start to leak ... best to leave the bulkheads alone for as long as possible.

I can't find the thinner wall pipes locally, but you can use any of the pipes as long as the internal diameter is large enough. <I normally oversize drain pipes (by 1/2" or more) for safety in case of debris, so a fraction of an inch in the ID is not a concern.> Using thinner pipes is better looking (IMO), but pipes are mostly hidden ... so most people just use the cheapest (which is schedule 40).

 

[NickRummy]

I think i have it figured out for the most part. I will be gluing in the adapter to the bulks so I can remove the stand pipe and return line in the overflow. Main reason i didn't want to do that was because once those fittings are glued in place the bulkhead can't be removed without hacking it apart.

Is it ok to use a flexible hose (kind of like what the hose on a shop vac looks like) attached right to the drain bulk head to direct water from the bulk head to the sump? Would that restrict the flow? It would clamp on the outside so i'm guessing it's probably close to 1.5" inside diameter?

 

[mr_X]

that will work fine.

 

[NickRummy]

Ok I did some drawings to show exactly what I have. I still need to get the slip on threaded adapters so I can remove the standpipe and return line inside the overflow but that's easy. Here are the couple questions I have remaining.

- Is the standpipe overflow at a good height?
- What kind of adapter can be used on a male loc-line threaded adapter to get it to attach to 3/4" PVC? The elbow shown has a female threaded output so that I can make an adapter that I can take out. I have a loc-line adapter then a Y piece and will have two loc-line outputs.
- How does the ball valve assembly look? It's a little odd with the 1" down to 3/4" reducer but that was the best way I could find that allowed a true 3/4" vinyl tube to be adapted to 3/4" PVC.

 

[mr_X]

you are never going to remove the standpipe to clean it.
i would put that elbow as high as possible. you don't want water coming over the surface skimmer and crashing down and making noise like that.

locline makes a threaded adapter...i guess this is the one you are using-
Loc-Line - 3/4" NPT Connector
you can find a 3/4" threaded to slip fitting at HD, and then just glue a piece of pipe in the elbow and attach that way.

btw, i don't think you need the ball valve either. all you have to do is shut down your pump to stop water from coming down. you'll never use that valve.

are you dead set on that MTC skimmer? i would rather use an octopus with a sicce pump. they use much less energy and pull more air. i have also heard good things about the bubble blaster pumps.

 

[NickRummy]

That is what the loc-line adapter looks like that I have but I'm thinking I might have the 1/2" version? I don't think the threaded end is 1". It's closer to 3/4" as it almost fits into the 3/4" PVC I have. I did find an adapter at Lowe's and started to thread it in to the loc-line adapter but it only made it 2-3 threads and started binding. I figured it wasn't the same thread.

The only reason I put the ball valve in was so that I had a way of reducing return water from the Mag 9.5 if need be? The drain is capable of 600gph correct? The Mag 9.5 should be pushing that much plus some?

As for the MTC skimmer, no I'm not dead set on it but it's what I got with the tank and my only option for the time being. I wouldn't be against getting rid of it in favor for something else if it doesn't do the job well.

 

[mr_X]

are you sure you didn't get this one?
Loc-Line - 3/4" BSPT* Connector


and your right...i got it backwards and was commenting as if it was on the drain pipe. DOH!

and lastly, yes, if you already have that skimmer, don't buy another one unless necessary.

 

[NickRummy]

That could be the one I have. I couldn't say. I got it from the LFS cheap. It was just in his random parts and pieces bin so I snagged it. I wouldn't mind having some more of the actual loc-line tubing anyhow so maybe I'll try and find a new adapter to be sure it's correct. The part I have is black if that makes any difference.