michealprater
Aquarium Advice Addict
I will PM anenomeman, so he can answer your questions. Sorry for the lack of responces, I will pm LoganJ also, he knows about diy lighting.
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loganj
Aquarium Advice Addict
The photocell has three different plugs that come with it. One black, one green, and one clear. Use the black one. I'm not sure how Mark did his, but I think I would screw the mounting posts into an outdoor conduit box and come out of that with a cord...if you have enough room to do that. You don't want any chance of any uninsulated/loose wires getting wet.
Logan J
Logan J
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I believe the lights that Mark got were the shop lights. They do not have a photocell on them.....
Anemoneman
Aquarium Advice Addict
Electrobes,
This is what I did. I drilled some small holes in the white part in front of the ballast and along the top to allow air to be drawn in thru the top holes, thru the holes in the white part (in the fixture behind the socket) and up thru the fan. Don't know if it needs it or not since the bulb is the big heat generator IMO. The ballast may put out some heat, don't know since I mitigated it pretty well.
For the light detector I used some highly technical electrical tape and covered it up! Since the detector sees dark all the time, whenever the power is on the light is on. I wired both lights to the same plug and plugged it into a timer.
Putting them 90 degrees to the way I have them is smart. Having them my way makes them protrude too deep into the tank necessitating a lower water level to keep water from touching the lense. This is not a problem for a 'fuge but I now have them over a 55 and may have to do something similar to what you describe. Post a pic when you get it done.
HTH
Mark
This is what I did. I drilled some small holes in the white part in front of the ballast and along the top to allow air to be drawn in thru the top holes, thru the holes in the white part (in the fixture behind the socket) and up thru the fan. Don't know if it needs it or not since the bulb is the big heat generator IMO. The ballast may put out some heat, don't know since I mitigated it pretty well.
For the light detector I used some highly technical electrical tape and covered it up! Since the detector sees dark all the time, whenever the power is on the light is on. I wired both lights to the same plug and plugged it into a timer.
Putting them 90 degrees to the way I have them is smart. Having them my way makes them protrude too deep into the tank necessitating a lower water level to keep water from touching the lense. This is not a problem for a 'fuge but I now have them over a 55 and may have to do something similar to what you describe. Post a pic when you get it done.
HTH
Mark
Anemoneman
Aquarium Advice Addict
Timbo, I have the outdoor lights.
Anemoneman
Aquarium Advice Addict
Getting it wet wasn't a concern for me. If it drops in the tank it's a disaster with or without the conduit fittings. I removed the mount (see my pics a few posts back) and ran the wires out of a ballast vent hole.
I forgot to mention, before drilling the vent holes for the ballast be sure to remove (or at lest loosen and pull away) the ballast assembly so you can locate the holes easier.
Mark
Electrobes
Aquarium Advice Addict
okay cool, tell me your opinion on this... I decided on one of these lights.. to be mounted on a hood, because I have a freshwater tank. I figure the 65 watts with the 6,825 lumens is enough... but I am not sure. If I have a pretty decently planted tank.. should I use two of these lights in the way you have them, or have one light in the center, but rotated so it needs the hood to lay on???? Thank a bunch!!!
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I guess where you got them they look the same...Here, it either looks like a street light or the ones you have except for they do not have a PhotoCell, they have an on/off switch. That is why I thought you had the shop lights. 
Anemoneman
Aquarium Advice Addict
If it were me, I would use two of these lights. I would not use a hood or glass tops. I would use a spacer to raise the lights about 3/4" or so so the lense will not touch the water. You may have to experiment a little to get a satisfactory set up. That's the thing with DIY, it takes a little tweaking to get it right. If the lights fit end to end then go ahead and arrange them that way.
Modifying the lights the way I did was not a no-brainer. There are some mods which aren't immediately obvious from the pictures. I removed the metal reflector and put mylar (shiny) tape on the inside to make a new reflective surface and facilitate having a hole in the top for the fan. Without the metal reflector the socket/ballast assembly isn't very solid and will allow the bulb to sag. The bulb clip they give you is junk. One broke and the other doesn't do much. Here's what I did. I took the metal reflector and cut off 2 or 3" (at the ballast end) with a Dremmel cut-off wheel. I used that partial reflector piece to wedge under/around the ballast housing the way it was in the original configuration before I took it out. Then I drilled a hole in the middle of the metal piece to screw it to (through) the top to hold it secure. This made the ballast housing stay put.
Does all that make sense?
Mark
Electrobes
Aquarium Advice Addict
Okay cool,
hehe you should see my parents and fiance! They are giving me the most scared looks, they think either my fish will be ultra cooked, or will have the worst case of skin cancer ever. I like the spacer idea, I was on the prowl of wondering how to make the hood AND lights fit nicely on the top without the lights too near the water and without cutting out the lights reaching the tank at full blast. So for my 29G I should use two lights? Man, the cool thing about DIY is that one finds interesting ways to put things together, but better redesign the top with two lights... but I had an interesting idea...
I was thinking of using almost like bars or sticks of acrylic, making what would look like a skeleton of a hood. It would hold the lights in place as Mark has it on his tank. the way for the actual skeleton to hold onto the tank would be something like a wedge (like two fingers spaced out) on each corner. The tanks edge would fit between each of these "fingers", supporting the rest of the skeletal structure.
Anyways dunno if its already been thought up of, but I'll see it it works somewhat
Thanks everyone!!!
hehe you should see my parents and fiance! They are giving me the most scared looks, they think either my fish will be ultra cooked, or will have the worst case of skin cancer ever. I like the spacer idea, I was on the prowl of wondering how to make the hood AND lights fit nicely on the top without the lights too near the water and without cutting out the lights reaching the tank at full blast. So for my 29G I should use two lights? Man, the cool thing about DIY is that one finds interesting ways to put things together, but better redesign the top with two lights... but I had an interesting idea...
I was thinking of using almost like bars or sticks of acrylic, making what would look like a skeleton of a hood. It would hold the lights in place as Mark has it on his tank. the way for the actual skeleton to hold onto the tank would be something like a wedge (like two fingers spaced out) on each corner. The tanks edge would fit between each of these "fingers", supporting the rest of the skeletal structure.
Anyways dunno if its already been thought up of, but I'll see it it works somewhat
Thanks everyone!!!Electrobes
Aquarium Advice Addict
okay yeah that makes sense, thanks mark, definate kudos! I will go ahead and get the other light to make the dual lighted hood. The nice part about having or using two lights is that they pretty much have to use the orientation as you have in on your tank, meaning the "skeletal hood" shouldn't be too difficult to make. As for the lights themselves, I definately agree that the light holder is junk, I'm worried it would literally melt away, even with a fan in it. I realized I would need to use reflector tape for the background, but you have an awesome idea/trick to hold the ballast steady!! - Once I complete everything, the "skeletal hood" and am back in G-ville where my digital camera is, I will take shots and show the results. Thanks everyone!!!
- Once I complete everything, the "skeletal hood" and am back in G-ville where my digital camera is, I will take shots and show the results. Thanks everyone!!!Anemoneman
Aquarium Advice Addict
I think your acrylic frame work is an excellent idea. Make sure it is thick enough to be a good support. If you could simply make a false rim to go on top of your tank, that would space the lights up. They fit so nice in a 12" wide tank that is shouldn't take much to do the job. Glad you're having fun. Your tank will be BRIGHT and the plants will go nuts.
Mark
Mark
Electrobes
Aquarium Advice Addict
I relooked about the ballast support, and don't quite see the bulb sagging. If the reflector is taken out, but the ballast housing is screwed back in.. wedged back in correctly... I can't see the housing being unstable.. to let the bulb sag, unless it pops out of position. Where the housing goes, there is a minor molded part of the inner structure where the housing goes behind... so for extra security I think I will tape it or screw it in so there is no chance for the housing to fall, or sag (poping out). As for the Fan, I've seen CPU fans which are more powerful, should I use those.. or is it the noise level are too high... actually now that I think of it... what CFM would be sufficient to keep the light cool? Thanks, I start construction of the "skeletal" hood today, yay! Just gotta get up at a decent hour! 
Electrobes
Aquarium Advice Addict
How is the ballast supported for the LoA 68 watt lights?, I finally saw the bulb sag right after my friend helped me complete the DIY wood hood. thanks!
Anemoneman
Aquarium Advice Addict
You can't use a CPU fan necause they are 12VDC. You need a fan that is 120VAC so it can be wired in parallel with the light. You may have some difficulty finding a 3" fan that is not DC. I know Grainger has them. I got mine out of a scrap bin at work.
The "ballast" is just an electronic circuit board held in place behind the white plasic housing. Take it apart and you will see. Securing everything together with more screws sounds like a good idea. Make sure to use stainless steel screws so they don't rust.
Mark
The "ballast" is just an electronic circuit board held in place behind the white plasic housing. Take it apart and you will see. Securing everything together with more screws sounds like a good idea. Make sure to use stainless steel screws so they don't rust.
Mark
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Electrobes,
If you want, I will get you the directions on how to run all of your cpu fans on an old computer power supply mounted remotely...It is way cheaper and you can get more bang for you buck these days doing that...You can get turbo fans for computers these days, that out perform a/c fans of the same size, for around $12 to $20 bucks, the IceCap fans are $40 for one. You can go with the a/c fans however, if you don't want to DIY the fans...
If you want, I will get you the directions on how to run all of your cpu fans on an old computer power supply mounted remotely...It is way cheaper and you can get more bang for you buck these days doing that...You can get turbo fans for computers these days, that out perform a/c fans of the same size, for around $12 to $20 bucks, the IceCap fans are $40 for one. You can go with the a/c fans however, if you don't want to DIY the fans...
I'm in Michigan, and can't find these 65 watters at any of the suggested stores (home depot, lowes, walmart, kmart, etc) ...
does anyone have an online source for them?
Electrobes, I have a 29gal planted too, do you have some pics of how bright yours is ... does the light make it into all the nooks and crannies?
I currently am using a diy hood with 4x 17watt fluorescents overdriven 2x for about 130 watts of light total, and there are still some dark shadows toward the bottom, plus the bulbs get sooo hot they need fans or you can't touch them.
does anyone have an online source for them?
Electrobes, I have a 29gal planted too, do you have some pics of how bright yours is ... does the light make it into all the nooks and crannies?
I currently am using a diy hood with 4x 17watt fluorescents overdriven 2x for about 130 watts of light total, and there are still some dark shadows toward the bottom, plus the bulbs get sooo hot they need fans or you can't touch them.
loganj
Aquarium Advice Addict
Have you checked the Home Depot website? I'm thinking you can order from there and have things shipped to you...not sure though.
well, how about that!
darn home depot - it's a conspiracy!
I searched their site for fluorex, using my home zip code ... it comes up with the 13 and 27 watt models, same thing comes up for detroit area
so, I tried dallas, tx zip code ... it comes up with different models, still not the powerhouse
so, I tried denver, co ... bingo!
If I'm ordering online, what difference does it make what my zip code is, other than for calculating shipping charges.
I'll have to visit my area's store and see if they can order these (doubt it) ... I guess I could try ordering from the denver website and see what happens... nope, their website won't let me do it ... damn it
darn home depot - it's a conspiracy!
I searched their site for fluorex, using my home zip code ... it comes up with the 13 and 27 watt models, same thing comes up for detroit area
so, I tried dallas, tx zip code ... it comes up with different models, still not the powerhouse
so, I tried denver, co ... bingo!
If I'm ordering online, what difference does it make what my zip code is, other than for calculating shipping charges.
I'll have to visit my area's store and see if they can order these (doubt it) ... I guess I could try ordering from the denver website and see what happens... nope, their website won't let me do it ... damn it
here's a good one...
I called HD's customer service 800#, and spoke with a supervisor.
They claimed that since the company has chosen for "whatever" reason to not sell a product to a certain market, there is no way to obtain that product short of driving to anohter market.
They must get lots of stoners calling them asking where can I buy these super lights, man!
Yet another reason drugs are bad ... they stop me from buying cheap lights for my fish tanks
I called HD's customer service 800#, and spoke with a supervisor.
They claimed that since the company has chosen for "whatever" reason to not sell a product to a certain market, there is no way to obtain that product short of driving to anohter market.
They must get lots of stoners calling them asking where can I buy these super lights, man!
Yet another reason drugs are bad
... they stop me from buying cheap lights for my fish tanks Similar threads
