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Old 03-16-2017, 04:37 PM   #1
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Possible sump design

So I'm setting up a 120G cichlid tank and instead of running a couple expensive canister filters I'm building a 30G sump to turn my water over as close to 10x an hour as possible.

Because I work at a chemical plant and I'm so accustomed to not throttling back on the discharge of pumps to help protect their seals and longevity, I'm having a hard time with the idea that the best way to regulate flow back to the display tank is to cut back on the discharge of the pump with a ball valve. Instead, I'm thinking of using what we call a Minimum Flow line back to the first section of my sump. The benefit would be three fold, IMO. First, you are always flowing the pump's design output, just diverting some of the flow to a different spot. Second, you'd be limiting the back pressure you were putting on the pump and further restricting the amount of flow you get back to the display tank. Finally, you'd be constantly running a slip stream of your water back through your sump for a second filtering.

Here's a crude drawing of what I'm considering doing. The arrows point to the minimum flow I'm referring to.
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:16 PM   #2
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Nice !
You only need one gate valve if you use it to control the 'MFL'.
This is how my 120 is set up.
I have a 4 way [ + ] that goes from pump to my two returns and then to my open line that flows within the sump. It could just go anywhere ? I have the gate valve on the "open line' to control return to tank speed.My open line goes to a UV but possibilities are wide open.. Think 'manifold' if you wanted DIY caniters in the sump and pump is powerful enough...
Make the last section where pump is as big as possible so you don't need to top off every other day...IMO baffles /overflows are highly overrated ,and to be used as a tool to direct water flow for use in the sump.
I also use a digitally controlled DC pump to help with flow control.
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:20 PM   #3
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Cool, thanks Bandit! The other valve upstream would just be there to block in before I break the union at the pump in case I needed to pull it out for maintenance. Call it the Plant Operator in me, I like places to block in when the need arises, lol.
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralbandit View Post
Nice !
You only need one gate valve if you use it to control the 'MFL'.
This is how my 120 is set up.
I have a 4 way [ + ] that goes from pump to my two returns and then to my open line that flows within the sump. It could just go anywhere ? I have the gate valve on the "open line' to control return to tank speed.My open line goes to a UV but possibilities are wide open.. Think 'manifold' if you wanted DIY caniters in the sump and pump is powerful enough...
Make the last section where pump is as big as possible so you don't need to top off every other day...IMO baffles /overflows are highly overrated ,and to be used as a tool to direct water flow for use in the sump.
I also use a digitally controlled DC pump to help with flow control.
Also, I'm 100% with you on the baffles and having room in the pump chamber of the sump. Couldn't agree more. My mechanical chamber (only taking up 4" of the length of my 30G sump) will have filter socks draining into floss, then will flow under a baffle, through a 2" gap, then over a baffle into the bio section which will be 13" and filled with (probably) lava rock for bio media. Then, through the same baffle setup into the pump section which will be 9" long. So, baffling is pretty minimal. It's only to direct water and my pump section, with where my baffles will be set, will hold about 5 gallons of water.
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