RapidLED Build - Will this Work?

[fort384]

New to DIY LED Fixtures, but here is what I am thinking... please let me know if I am on the wrong track, or if anyone sees any problem with the plan.

I need to light a 12 gallon long reef tank, that is 36" wide (91cm). It is presenting a bit of a challenge. I want a fixture that is dimmable, and controllable, but I don't feel like spending $1400 on 2 radions to run at 10% intensity .

I am thinking a 36" wide heat sink, predilled for 18 LEDs:
Drilled/tapped 1.4" x 36" Aluminum Heatsink - Rapid LED

The plan will then be to add:
6 royal blue 3W Crees, 60 degree optics
6 blue 3W Crees, 60 degree optics
6 soft white 5W Crees, 80 degree optics.

My thinking on the optics is since the LEDs will be single file, I will want greater spread on the whites so I don't end up with a spot light effect. I tried to illustrate my thinking in the diagram below - since the layout will be blue, blue, white, the whites need to spread more to mix evenly in the tank.

I then plan to drive each of the 3 colors individually, using a Mean Well ELN 60-27P for each string.
Mean Well ELN-60-27P dimmable driver - Rapid LED

To the drivers, I plan to hook this nifty Arduino controller I found Typhon LED Controller which will allow for timer settings and intensity settings with sunrise/sunset for each color of LED.

I figure the small heat sink will be a mess with the wiring, but I got the idea from Ziggy to use some stock aluminum C channel to kind of shield the whole fixture and hide the wiring. I can paint it black.

For the stand, I plan to use 20mm square t slot aluminum, as shown in the diagram below. I can then attach the heat sink via the T slots to the stand, and set it over the tank. I can't imagine the whole fixture will weigh more then a few pounds, so I would think 20mm t slot would be more than enough to carry the load.

I am looking for feedback on the plan:
Will it be enough light for softies and LPS?
Since I have never wired LEDs before, do I have the wiring concept correct in the diagram below?
Do I have enough height on the stand (fixture would set roughly 10cm above waterline)?
Are there any flaws that anyone sees with this plan?

If you've read this far, thanks for suffering through! I would love your feedback.

 

[fort384]

Looking at how to enclose this thing as well - anyone see any issues with enclosing all of the drivers into a project box? Do they get very hot, and would that cause overheating issues?

 

[Convict2161]

Looking at how to enclose this thing as well - anyone see any issues with enclosing all of the drivers into a project box? Do they get very hot, and would that cause overheating issues?

Justin sorry I can't be much help. Only thing I know for a fact that help you with is the drivers do tend to run hot so being enclosed IMO would be a bad idea. I would rather have them open or at least places somewhere so they can get some air flow.

I would guess that overheating could become an issue.

 

[fort384]

Thanks Dino. Hoping to get some input back on the fixture plan as well. My main concern is the optics, and with a 2:1 blue to white ratio, am I going to get white spotlighting in the tank. My diagram makes it look like it would be ok, but it isn't to scale . What do you think about the 60/80 optics and the mounting height above the tank (10cm)? Do I need to make my stand taller?

 

[Convict2161]

Thanks Dino. Hoping to get some input back on the fixture plan as well. My main concern is the optics, and with a 2:1 blue to white ratio, am I going to get white spotlighting in the tank. My diagram makes it look like it would be ok, but it isn't to scale . What do you think about the 60/80 optics and the mounting height above the tank (10cm)? Do I need to make my stand taller?

I'm no expert but I wouldn't make the stand taller. It looks pretty good from the drawings. I don't really see much of an issue with white spotting, I see what you mean though. Raising the height will give more spread right? Create less of a spotlight effect correct?