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Old 02-12-2007, 10:14 PM   #21
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Dije que "usted habla el Netherlands"

sorry kaaiope =). I'll stop now.

Watch our thread! A MyCatsDrool and Travis Simonson Joint Production....55 Tanganyikan Tank. It is hidden in the photography showcase. It is really my tank, but Trav is helping and we live next door from each other...so....

CCTV Has shut its doors. Off the air.
5.5 gal ADA rimless cube, fully planted, killifish breeder. coming soon to a forum near you.
It's called Sex Panther, by Odeon. Illegal in 9 countries. Yep, it's made with bits of real panther, so you know it's good.
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by kaaikop
I am just realizing that I was WAY too conservative with my dosings. I had never had any positive Nitrate reading in this tank... no kidding, with the small quantities I was dosing...
Using "Chucks" calculator, I have just realized how much I have to dose NO3 to get from 0 to, say 5 ppm... that is like 25 times what I was putting in my tank in a week, LOL.
I think you've found the solution to your algae problems. As long as you have good CO2 levels (I missed it if you ever addressed your CO2) then having one or nutrients bottoming out is the next likely suspect. Now that you know how much to dose to achieve sufficient amounts, I've got a feeling that algae is going to start beating a fast retreat allowing you to focus on the plants and aquascaping again.

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Old 02-13-2007, 12:05 AM   #23
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^ yep, that seems to work for me too... Make sure nothing bottoms out, and maintain consistent CO2 around 30ppm... You do that and that tank will be bursting at the seems with overgrown plants in about 4 weeks...

Sorry about the french diversion
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Old 02-13-2007, 07:46 AM   #24
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Great!!! I really think I'm on to something positive here. Somehow, I had to get away from it.
I mean, I had read that stuff over & over, but it just didnt register...

Same with C02, I'm figuring it out right now... I am targetting a pH of 6,2 (KH of 30 ppm), so that would give me around 32 ppm of CO2... But it's not easy to adjust...
I just noticed now, when I shut down the pH meter, the bubbles keep on counting... solenoid gone bad? and also, it's quite arbitrary... my KH is 30 according to my testkit (Hagen).
Yet it only measures by increments of 10 ppm, so if it's 25 or 35ppm makes a huge difference: 25 very good, 35 fish dies, right?

Hey no problem with the French! J'ignorais que vous parliez francais!
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:09 AM   #25
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Actually you don't need to worry about your fish until your CO2 levels get over 100ppm. So you've got lots of wiggle room before you need to worry. I'd start with 6.2 for the pH and then maybe bump it down 0.1-0.2 if you're still having problems that would indicate low CO2 levels.

I don't have a solenoid, so I'm not extremely sure how they work. I do believe that it takes a little while for them to actually halt the flow of bubbles. However if it never shuts down the flow of bubbles then it could have gone bad. A way to test is to unplug the solenoid and see if it shuts down the flow or not.
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:25 AM   #26
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CO2 bubble-flow should stop very soon after the solenoid shuts off (within a few seconds). If it does not then you may need to consider getting a new one. They're not too pricey and can simply be bolted in, in place of the old one.

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