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Old 08-08-2011, 11:04 PM   #1
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Actinic in addition to...

Have read various posts and threads here and elsewhere with hints, bits, and pieces about lighting that includes actinics over freshwater planted tanks, but no definitive answers-

Just ordered a 48" T5 HO that has three tubes- 2 10k and one actinic. Having seen similar lights before, I like the color display of the daylight tubes with the blue added-

But some have said that the actinic can cause algae issues, while others say that isn't the case.

Anyone else have input on the use of actinics (and yes, I know there is no benefit to plants).
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:06 PM   #2
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I can tell you that they won't cause Alfred problems, used to run actinics on my mbuna tank.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:11 PM   #3
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Oh good, I would hate to encourage Alfred in my tank!!!! Heheheh
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdrookie516
I can tell you that they won't cause Alfred problems, used to run actinics on my mbuna tank.
Not at all trying to argue rook you give boat loads of excellent advise but I don't see any other causes for the green water out break in my tank so I am taking out my actinic but I am just trying to eliminate variables not saying it was a for sure cause

Ps I don't at all like the look of actinic bulbs takes away from the natural colors of my fish and plants IMO
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:31 PM   #5
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Wow, I knew I didn't use the app very often for a reason... iPhone auto-correct fail.

Anyhoo, I can say with certainty that if you're not overfeeding, changing water often (as you should), and keeping your water parameters in check, green water is not going to happen unless you've got some serious lighting (and we're talking higher lighting than a high tech planted tank). Of course, this is all my experience and opinion, but I just don't see it happening. Not to mention, freshwater algae uses the same light that freshwater plants use. If actinic doesn't do anything for plants (well... lets use minimal since some people claim it does to an extent), then it isn't going to do anything for algae (again, minimal).
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:40 PM   #6
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I totally understand your comment on the iPhone auto-correct!

My curiosity with this light goes beyond the actinic. Not including that tube, the other two tubes are 54watt T5HO.

While there are many web pages with info on lighting based on the old T8 wattage, I can't find any consistent or definitive info on lighting levels using T5 (or the newer T6) fixtures.

I know with the twin T5 HO on my 29g, I was really push the need for pressurized CO2, thus the reason I cut back to one on at a time and split photo period). I'm real curious what 2 54w 10k lights will do on the 55g (which is a couple inches taller than the 29g). I'm wondering if I will be running only one at a time+one actinic... At least until I can put enough $ together to go the CO2 route.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:45 PM   #7
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Another contraversial subject then. Split photoperiod. Now, I run my planted tanks 4 on, 4 off, 4 on. I've stopped using co2 and ferts. i have no algae problems at all (knock on wood). When I was running co2 and ferts, I had BBA, hair algae, gsa, and probably some that hadn't been discovered yet. I'm running 4x39w on my 40b and 8x24w on my 150 (not quite as high light as the 40). Just my $.02
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:02 AM   #8
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After I split my lighting (4 on, 5 off, 5 on), my struggle with BBA quickly came to an end. For some reason, I turned on both tubes one day to do some looking in detail and forgot to turn one off- so after a few days of BOTH tubes on, I had one little patch of BBA try to start back. But I double-dosed w/exell and changed one of my yeast bottles out and it disappeared pretty quick. The fact that my tank had become EXTREMELY overgrown with plants (with a LOT of plants covering the surface) probably helped! I'm a bit anxious about what's going to happen with the plants thinned WAY out. May have to go back to one light untillplants fill back in a bit.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdrookie516
Wow, I knew I didn't use the app very often for a reason... iPhone auto-correct fail.

Anyhoo, I can say with certainty that if you're not overfeeding, changing water often (as you should), and keeping your water parameters in check, green water is not going to happen unless you've got some serious lighting (and we're talking higher lighting than a high tech planted tank). Of course, this is all my experience and opinion, but I just don't see it happening. Not to mention, freshwater algae uses the same light that freshwater plants use. If actinic doesn't do anything for plants (well... lets use minimal since some people claim it does to an extent), then it isn't going to do anything for algae (again, minimal).
I do pwc/vac twice a week I don't think I overfeed as much as they will eat quickly none hits the ground and I never or rarely have fluctuation in my perimeters and this is the only tank of 9 with an actinic bulb two tanks planted and that is the only tank that had algae only diatoms in the early stages so you can see why I think that way

I like 6 on 6 off

But to each his own not trying to start anything much respect to every ones opinion glad to hear it all cause these are touchy subjects lol
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:20 AM   #10
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I suppose there could be a difference depending on the actinic bulb used? Mine was a 420nm.
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdrookie516
I suppose there could be a difference depending on the actinic bulb used? Mine was a 420nm.
I am really not sure not too familiar with actinic I will have a look tomorrow
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