Algae Problems

[Link119]

Since I started the aquarium, I always had an algae problem, mostly BGA. Now the sand has started to get some black algae growing on it much like how BGA grows but black. The tank is 10 gallons, very lightly planted (as seen in the photos), has two 13 watt spiral bulbs in the hood pointed horizontally (I used to have a piece of white paper to block off the lights a little because they used to cause more algae) and they are on for about 6 hours a day (and the tank gets ambient light throughout the day). Currently I have a 100gph filter and another powerhead giving plenty of circulation. What would help with getting rid of it so it doesnt smother my plants. The pictures are after the plants have been lightly cleaned but the older leaves were about half covered before cleaning.

 

[BBradbury]

Controlling Algae

Hello Link...

Algae grows in water with high phosphates, mainly from flaked fish foods. To keep this nutrient out of the water, you need to be removing and replacing half the water a couple of times a week. You should be doing this anyway to keep dissolved wastes out of the water. Add a floating plant like Hornwort to use up the nutrients in the water. Ramshorn snails are good algae eaters too.

B

 

[SFAquariums1]

Do not listen to the above advice. Unless there is a major issues there is no reason to change out 50 percent of the water MULTIPLE times a week. You should have a steady water change schedule of about 20% a week. Considering you only have a 10 gallon tank 1-1.5 gallons once a week would be plenty.

Algae is caused by excess nutrients in the water. These excess nutrients occur based on multiple factors. Lights, waste, un eaten food, etc. is this tank dirted? Or are you using a liquid fertilizer or root tabs? The light being on for 6 hours shouldn't be a problem however whenever a new tank is started it is best to slowly up the amount of light. Start with 2 hours, and go up about 2 hours every couple of days. This prevents algae blooms from too much light.

To tackle this problem, I would clean the plants the best you can, do 1 50 percent water change really getting into the substrate (if possible) and continue with 1-1.5 gallon wTer changes once per week. Also, you can consider adding some more plants to take up the excess nutrients. But if your not using dirt as a substrate and your dosing with liquid, it may just be an issue of over dosing


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[Link119]

I dont have any dirt, but I do put root tabs beneath the plants that are root feeders. I've had horrible luck with both hornwort and anacharis and both of which made a huge mess when dying. I do not dose liquid ferts and am hoping to avoid that because I am off at college so I am trying to keep things low maintenance. My goal is to have as few water changes as possible to keep my parents from going mad.
Would getting some water wisteria be a good alternative to hornwort? I herad about hornwort melt and how messy it is and I dont want that to happen while Im gone.

 

[Coursair]

You only need root tabs under Swords and Crypts. You can add them for other plants, but it's not as vital.

Bury them deep. Depending on your stocking of Fish AND Plants and your feeding...your water test results will tell you how much water needs to be changed out.

I politely disagree with both posters.
Changing 50% once a week, is accepted practice in many planted tanks. That is to get rid of excess ferts as well as offer more minerals to the plants.

With sensitive Shrimp I typically only changed 20% 1-2x weekly or as needed by test results.

So the amount you change is not set in stone. As long as you don't have expensive Shrimp, it never hurts to change larger volumes.

I use Root Tabs and liquid ferts.
Seachem Flourish comprehensive
API Leaf Zone
Seachem Excel
DIY Osmocote + Root Tabs




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[SFAquariums1]

You only need root tabs under Swords and Crypts. You can add them for other plants, but it's not as vital.

Bury them deep. Depending on your stocking of Fish AND Plants and your feeding...your water test results will tell you how much water needs to be changed out.

I politely disagree with both posters.
Changing 50% is accepted practice in many planted tanks. That is to get rid of excess ferts as well as offer more minerals to the plants.

With sensitive Shrimp I typically only changed 20% 1-2x weekly or as needed by test results.

So the amount you change is not set in stone. As long as you don't have expensive Shrimp, it never hurts to change larger volumes.

I use Root Tabs and liquid ferts.
Seachem Flourish comprehensive
API Leaf Zone
Seachem Excel
DIY Osmocote + Root Tabs

View attachment 259628


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I will politely agree with your statement.

50 percent is a common practice. And your change amount isn't set in stone. However leading people to believe that the only way to fix your problem is 50 percent water changes multiple times per week as bbradbury did? That's insane to me. In a 10 gallon tank that is not being dosed with anything, shouldn't need more than a 10-20 percent water change once a week (once the algae problem and parameters are under control) should be plenty. I also agree with only needing root tabs under the types of plants you listed.

Op, what fish do you have in this tank?


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[Fresh2o]

Erythromycin is a safe and effective treatment for BGA. When I had it in my tank I would siphon it out (thank goodness it is more of a slime and does not cling too tightly to things) but it would sooner reappear. I did spot treating with H2O2 and Excel. Those worked somewhat, but when it got out of hand I resorted to using EM.


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[ywagner]

I've always used flourish excel for my algae and co2 problem and it has always worked like a charm.

Btw I back the 50% change


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[Ryan87500]

Erythromycin is a safe and effective treatment for BGA. When I had it in my tank I would siphon it out (thank goodness it is more of a slime and does not cling too tightly to things) but it would sooner reappear. I did spot treating with H2O2 and Excel. Those worked somewhat, but when it got out of hand I resorted to using EM.


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I agree with the erythromycin treatment. I recently knocked it out from my tank and enjoy my tank so much more now.


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[Link119]

Op, what fish do you have in this tank?

I have 4 Chili Rasboras (or maybe they are Harlequins).

 

[Caliban07]

You only need root tabs under Swords and Crypts. You can add them for other plants, but it's not as vital.

Bury them deep. Depending on your stocking of Fish AND Plants and your feeding...your water test results will tell you how much water needs to be changed out.

I politely disagree with both posters.
Changing 50% once a week, is accepted practice in many planted tanks. That is to get rid of excess ferts as well as offer more minerals to the plants.

With sensitive Shrimp I typically only changed 20% 1-2x weekly or as needed by test results.

So the amount you change is not set in stone. As long as you don't have expensive Shrimp, it never hurts to change larger volumes.

I use Root Tabs and liquid ferts.
Seachem Flourish comprehensive
API Leaf Zone
Seachem Excel
DIY Osmocote + Root Tabs

View attachment 259628


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What class of light is this tank? High med or low?


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[Coursair]

Mine ? Low. 2 mini CFLs. 20 watts total over a 10g


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[Caliban07]

Mine ? Low. 2 mini CFLs. 20 watts total over a 10g


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Right. Lovely looking tank wasn't sure if you had managed to go up to med med/high with injected co2 as I couldn't make out the plant species properly.


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[Caliban07]

Suppose to read 'without using injected co2'


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