Algae showing up in new planted tank -- Any Advice?

[wdcolo]

The tank was established about 30 days before planting: Substrate installed, filters / Heaters running, Lights installed, natural CO2 system installed, but not turned on.

The tank was planted about 3 weeks ago and CO2 was started. Fish added a week ago -- the tank has not cycled yet so am watching for ammonia, nitrites, etc. Fish are happy and schooling, but Algae has now started to take hold in the tank (only faint traces visible). I would like to nip this in the bud right now. I also don't understand why the PH has changed so suddenly, and what may be causing that to occur.

Any Advice?


Tank Specifics:

20 gallons
3.25 Watts / Gallon (Light)
Natural CO2
ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0.25 ppm
Nitrate: 0 ppm
PH: moved from 7.6 down to 6.0 in the last week.
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[malkore]

First of all, Welcome to Aquarium Advice!

Now, I need a little more info on your tank. pH is currently 6.0? what is your Kh, or Carbonate Hardness? (sometimes called Alkalinity)
You need to know this so that you can determine what your CO2 levels are sitting at. With your high light tank, you'll want 25ppm of CO2 minimum, but don't exceed 35ppm.

This may require adding a second DIY bottle to your setup, simply connect with a T-connector.

I would also suggest purchasing Seachem's Phosphate test kit (www.drsfostersmith.com sells it if you can't find it locally).

Let me know the Kh levels, either in degrees, ppm or mg/L and then we'll know if you need more CO2.

Spend some time thoroughly reading the Stickied posts at the top of the planted forum. They will shed some more light on CO2 testing, and how to avoid algae by properly maintaining NPK levels, and trace nutrients. Your low nitrate level is the cause of your algae...the phosphate level is too high in relation to nitrate. You want about 10ppm of nitrate for every 1ppm of phosphate...you probably have 0:1 or above, a recipe for algae.

cycling your tank
I'm not going to chastise you for not fishless cycling, because a high light CO2 injected, densly planted tank doesn't cycle like a non-planted tank.
Keep testing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate...but don't be surprised if you never see ammonia. Plants will use ammonia as a source of nitrogen just as readily as they'll use nitrate. But they won't touch nitrite, and nitrite becomes toxic by 1ppm. at your 0.25ppm levels, most fish won't be harmed. Be careful when it hits 0.5ppm, and do a 50% water change. You might have to do this every day for a week, but one day you'll see it disappear.

 

[wdcolo]

I will give the tank a check as you suggested above, and get back to you. I will have to go out an get a test kit before we can discuss.

By the way, I checked the Nitrites today, and found out they went back to zero as expected. The bacteria appears to be doing its job. I am looking for Nitrates, but they have not appeared. It may be too early to find them. The Ammonia levels are still at zero.

Ok.. I've had many tanks, but have learned this mainly on my own -- so my knowledge is lacking. What is fishless cycling, and how is it accomplished?

 

[malkore]

http://aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=15 - Fishless cycling faq

you may not end up seeing nitrates. in high light tanks, we pretty much have to dose nitrates, phosphates (not too much though) and potassium, as well as a trace mix and iron. soft water people also dose epsom salts to provide magnesium and calcium traces for the plants.

 

[Jchillin]

Fishless cycling is done by using an ammonia source other than fish. Pure ammonia (not the commercial household type), fish food or raw shrimp (fresh from fish market) are the most common methods.

By using the above method, you're tank can be cycled without subjecting fish to the dizzying array of toxins and prevents unnecessary fish deaths.

In regard to the lack of nitrites and nitrates, your tank has only been running for a week. Nitrites usually show up after 10 days and nitrates after 25-30 days.

 

[wdcolo]

Many thanks for all the advice from Malkore and Jchillin.

It is very much appreciated. I was aware that with plants, that Nitrates might not show up in high concentrations, but it didn't think this meant they might end up being zero.

I should have a Carbonate Hardness (Alkalinity) test kit, and Phosphate test kit by Friday of this week if all goes well at the local stores.

Will post the results when I have them on Friday (if all goes well).

Malkore: Buy the way.. nice bike

 

[travis simonson]

Good to see a serious planted tank enthusiast from CO If you're in the Denver area let me know and I might be able to help out a little more than just advice.

 

[wdcolo]

Here are the current figures on my tank

Sorry.. forgot to put in the Phosphate results:

Phosphate = 0 mg/L
_____________________________________________
I did a 33% water change on Thursday, and so my chemistry changed a bit. I decided to run the tests again, and see what happened. Here are the new figures, along with the total hardness, and Carbonate Hardness results that were requested:

General (Total) hardness - (GH) = 180 ppm (mg/L CaCO3)
Carbonate Hardness - (KH) = < 10 ppm (mg /L CaCO3) :?
PH - 7.4 ; This was 6.0 prior to a water change
Nitrites = 0 ppm
Nitrates = 0 ppm
Ammonia =0 ppm

Some observations: I did the PH test twice when I got the 6.0 answer and both tests agreed. I was quite surprised by the 7.4 reading today, although I did add new water on Thursday. I confirmed the new PH results using the high PH test to confirm the result (for PH above 7.2) - Its more sensitive; The general hardness is moderately hard (Water comes from the Rocky Mountain snow run off); and the amount of CaCO3 in the tank was almost negligible.

Sounds like I need to increase my CaCO3 levels; Book says it needs to be up between 105 mg/L and 125 mg/L.

Comments?