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James_in_MN

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
611
Location
Minneapolis, MN
I'm convinced that all plants except those that start with "java" are destined to die in my care.

20g high tank - round 1
When starting my 20g tank, I decided on anacharis for the background plant. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that the Aqueon hood I bought doesn't even come close to having enough light for any plants in my tank. The end result was anacharis that melted far enough to disintegrate when I touched it to take it out of the tank.

Cleaning up thousands of dead anacharis leaves was quite the joyous occasion, LOL. :uhoh:

20g high tank - round 2
I replaced my useless Aqueon full hood with a glass top and Marineland LED light system. I, once again, chose anacharis as my background plant for the tank. The plants, with my new light, seemed to work quite well for a short while. Unfortunately, the anacharis started to turn brownish at the stem and headed toward another melt. I was, fortunately, able to get the plants out of the tank before the same disastrous meltdown occurred.

I had melted some of my corkscrew val at the same time, so I thought that perhaps the Seachem Excel might have done damage to both of those types of plants. After doing some reasearch, I came to the conclusion that they were likely dying due to nutrient deficiencies. I was adding Seachem Excel and Seachem complete, but that apparently still didn't cover the major nutrients iron and potassium.

I also discovered that anacharis is primarily a cold water plant, so thus ended my anacharis experiment.

20g high tank - round 3
I've now switched background plants from anacharis to wisteria, and picked up API root tabs from one of the local LFS. When I picked up the root tabs, it was suggested to me that I could cut the tab down to quarters and place them at the roots of the plants instead of stocking the whole substrate with them. The reason they gave was that adding a bunch of whole tabs monthly, as the package suggests, was more than was necessary, and that the company was just trying to get you to overbuy their product. Since that sounded like an honest assessment instead of an attempt to push products on me, I followed their suggestion.

I had to leave for a business trip that was almost two weeks long. When I returned, the wisteria had grown like a weed! I figured I had finally found the combination of plants that might actually survive in my care.

Unfortunately, this too shall pass. This week, my wisteria has gone into full meltdown mode out of the blue. Fortunately, the whole plant didn't fully wipe out, but the lower stem seems to have. So now, I have a bunch of wisteria floating at the surface, and some remains that needs to be cleaned out of my tank.

20g high tank - ??
So now, I have to figure out what in the heck happened.

Did they fail to get enough nutrients for the month because I cut the root tabs into quarters? I have to almost assume that was what may have happened, since it seemed to have melted down from the roots up.

Is there some other background plant I could go with that doesn't turn to mush in my care? My java ferns, java moss, and small crypts in my 10g seem to be fine. My corkscrew val and amazon sword seem to be hanging in there in my 20g.

Can I continue to use Seachem Excel, or should I try to set up a pricey CO2 system?
 
first of all: excel melts vals. if you still are dosing excel to the tank that has vals, either pull the vals out or stop dosing excel, or those, too, will melt down and die.

second, i am not familiar with LED lighting at all. do you know the wattage and color spectrum of the light?

it sounds to me like they are just dying from lack of light. i wouldn't jump into CO2 until you're comfortable keeping low-light plants. if need be at a later date, DIY CO2 is an option for 20g tanks and smaller.
 
Excel also melts Anacharis.

I have both in my tanks and rather than pouring the Excel right into the water, I take a gallon jug add a quart of tank water, put the Excel in mix it really good and fill the jug up with more tank water, then pour it in and around the tank. I have yet to melt either plant.
 
After the first initial melting of the corkscrew vals, I reduced how much Excel I was adding to the tank. I also made sure I added it well away from where the vals are. They're doing pretty well now.

The following link has the Marineland LED lights.

Marineland Double Bright LED Aquarium Lights | Fixtures | PetSolutions

Mine is the 24"-36" LED lighting system. I gave the link because it shows the light wavelength for this light. It has 8 1W LEDs for a total of 600 lumens. It says the lights are 6k.
 
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James_in_MN said:
After the first initial melting of the corkscrew vals, I reduced how much Excel I was adding to the tank. I also made sure I added it well away from where the vals are. They're doing pretty well now.

The following link has the Marineland LED lights.

Marineland Double Bright LED Aquarium Lights | Fixtures | PetSolutions

Mine is the 24"-36" LED lighting system. I gave the link because it shows the light wavelength for this light. It has 8 1W LEDs for a total of 600 lumens. It says the lights are 6k.

But there's still a concentration of Excel floating around and that's why I mix it first. I don't know anything about LED's, sorry.

Hopefully fort or rookie will comment soon.
 
Excel + anacharis/vals = bad news bears.

I agree though, the main problem is lighting. Those marineland LEDs are great for fish only tanks. They are not powerful enough as a stand alone for planted tanks. Some times people will get them to keep java moss/java fern alive, but that is about it. LEDs are great, if they are the proper strength, spectrum, temperature, etc. Those tiny marineland ones just don't provide much PAR at all.
 
fort384 said:
I agree though, the main problem is lighting. Those marineland LEDs are great for fish only tanks. They are not powerful enough as a stand alone for planted tanks. Some times people will get them to keep java moss/java fern alive, but that is about it. LEDs are great, if they are the proper strength, spectrum, temperature, etc. Those tiny marineland ones just don't provide much PAR at all.

That doesn't seem to fit what what I had been seeing up to this point though. My corkscrew vals are fine, and my amazon sword is doing well also. The wisteria was OK up until recently, and was actually growing like a weed while I was gone for the nearly two weeks.

I would have though that it was a lack of nutrients because I was going with 1/4 the tablet size at the base of each plant. I had planted the root tabs toward the end of March, so it was time to put more in, but I wouldn't have expected the meltdown that seems to have happened now.
 
that light looks to be on the low side of the spectrum 6k and you having a 20 H isnt helping you with this. IMO

I will tell you not to give up on them it is well worth it. After fighting light,algae, bad water,ferts and adding a canister CO2 injecter system I am now happy that my plants and fish are very active I even have flowers every week from my lillies. Best of luck
 
I still vote light. Nutrient deficiency would not cause a massive melt down.
 
Excel + anacharis/vals = bad news bears.

I agree though, the main problem is lighting. Those marineland LEDs are great for fish only tanks. They are not powerful enough as a stand alone for planted tanks. Some times people will get them to keep java moss/java fern alive, but that is about it. LEDs are great, if they are the proper strength, spectrum, temperature, etc. Those tiny marineland ones just don't provide much PAR at all.

+1

i don't think your light is sufficient. 8w over 20g (especially a taller tank) is just not gonna cut it. i was able to keep crypt wendtii, java fern, and anubias' with just 15w over my 20g tall tank, but that was a fluorescent bulb @ 6500k. if you just want low-light low-maintenance, try to find a single fluorescent strip light for your tank. or even a double.
 
+1

i don't think your light is sufficient. 8w over 20g (especially a taller tank) is just not gonna cut it. i was able to keep crypt wendtii, java fern, and anubias' with just 15w over my 20g tall tank, but that was a fluorescent bulb @ 6500k. if you just want low-light low-maintenance, try to find a single fluorescent strip light for your tank. or even a double.

well... the wattage does not convert with LEDs... comparing T8 wattage to LED wattage is apples to oranges.

I still vote lighting though :p
 
well... the wattage does not convert with LEDs... comparing T8 wattage to LED wattage is apples to oranges.

I still vote lighting though :p


so how would you know if the LED's are sufficient or not for plants? i had looked at LED's when it came to upgrading, but had no idea what would and wouldn't work.
 
So, from what I'm seeing, it sounds like I went from a $40 mistake (Aqueon deluxe hood) that I returned for store credit, to a $100 mistake (Marineland LED) that's nonreturnable?

:evil: :crazyeyes: :bad-words: :scrambleup: :microwave:

Maybe I'll just put 5 pounds of java moss in there and call it a day. :lach:
 
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