CO2 diffusion & Canister

[workfortheman]

Okay, I'm only gonna ask this once. . . .I'm sure it's been asked before! I have a new Odyssea cfs4 filter. Can I just run my DIY co2 line to the intake? Is this more efficient than, say, the Hagen-made ladder?

Other options are create an in-tank diffuser at the outlet (not optimal), build an in-line external diffuser from filter outlet (more effort required), or the hagen ladder.

Your suggestions are very welcome! TIA

 

[malkore]

I wouldn't unless the impeller is in the bottom of the canister. If its in the top, which most are, you run the risk of airlocking it, and if you don't realize it right away, you can damage/burn out the motor.

it'd be better to build an in-line reactor, plumb it into the return line, and never have to worry about an airlock.

 

[workfortheman]

Okay, I guess I am hesitant to do the in-line reactor on the output side, since I feel the force from the pump in the canister won't be enough to drive the water through what is essentially an extra-wide tube. Do you think the in-line reactor could be installed on the inflow line to the canister? or is the risk of airlocking still there? (if it's a good reactor then there would be no bubbles. . .

 

[greenmaji]

I think the larger tube would just be a zone of lower water pressure.. JMO though..
If it is well designed it could go in the intake line, but there is more risk involved that way..

 

[workfortheman]

More risk in the way of airlock? Also, how long would the impellar have to be stuck to burn it out? a day? hours?

 

[Hoovercat]

Yes, Magi means more risk of airlock. There's not any set time the pump will run dry of water before it'll burn out. There are lots of ways cheaper than a $100 canister filter to diffuse CO2 so why risk it at all. If you just WANT to run it into the intake no one here can PROVE it won't work quite well for a long term solution. Everyone here is a hobbyist offering advice, thus the name of the site. Personally, I run a glass CO2 diffuser under a powerhead's intake. Maybe someone else has a cheap, easy solution that won't put your brand new canister on the chopping block.

 

[malkore]

honestly I've never burned out my canister motor, but I can tell you that less than an hour of insufficient water will destroy Rio and AquaClear powerheads.

what you can do on the DIY, is don't make it super wide...instead make it long, and fill it with the bio balls. by filling in the extra space, you narrow it back down so the filter isn't losing nearly as much pressure.

My friend has an XP3 Filstar that has a DIY reactor AND an Hydor inline heater on it, and he can't see any decrease in flow compared to his other XP3 which only has a UV sterilzer on it. The loss is probably 10-20gph at most on a filter that size.

 

[workfortheman]

I will look into doing a DIY inline reactor. I really question the efficiency of that ladder, once the bubbles hit the top they simply head to the surface. . .I will probably be way better off finding a more efficient mechanism.

 

[czcz]

You will be better off. One active diffusor more than doubled the dissolved CO2 of two passive diffusors (Hagen and bell) in my tank. You don't need lots of bioballs or some big chamber to break up the bubbles, and therefore won't impede flow. If you can replace the output hose on your canister, consider injecting CO2 immediately after the pump, so you use the return tubing as the reactor. (I do this with my sump return line with the same numbers as my powerhead diffusor. I believe either method dissolves almost all the CO2 my yeast-based setup produces)