CO2 without the bottle, regulator, etc.

[Jack]

I'm interested in adding CO2 to my tank, but I'm not really interested in adding a tank w/regulator, solenoid, etc. Probably my biggest reason is that I sold a nice calcium reactor when I sold all of my reef stuff. I can't bring myself to repurchase the stuff.

Anyway, my tank is fish first, plants second. I do have quite a few plants and decent lighting (2 daylight 55w PC's and a 40w daylight flour over a std. 75 gal tank). I would like to add some CO2, but don't want a lot of expense or time involved in making everything perfect, or creating conditions that make plants grow at astronomical rates.

Any suggestions?

 

[justDIY]

you can get decent "slow" plant growth without CO2, and using lighting around 2 watts a gallon.

With lighting around 3 watts a gallon, you can introduce the "yeast generator" method of CO2

search for diy co2 here or on google, you basiclly take a empty pop bottle (2 liter), throw in a few cups of water, sugar and a pinch of yeast, and then use an air hose to vent that into your tank's filter.

I feel what you meen about the equipment - that's why I have closets full of stuff that could go on Ebay, but I never know when I might need it again!

 

[Guest]

Ther is also a product by Seachem, Flourish Excel. Not co2, but an alternate carbon source for plants. Some folks swear by it, but I have no particular opinion on it.

 

[Jack]

I really want to add CO2 to enhance plant growth and potentially help eliminate some hair algae. I have a pretty light bioload so CO2 released into the system has to be low.

With the yeast generator, don't you still need something to mix the CO2 into the water? Oh and I also have a closet full and then some!

I've seen some of those products that are supposed to enhance plant uptake of nutrients and such, but have never tried.

 

[Guest]

With the yeast generator, don't you still need something to mix the CO2 into the water?

With many filters you just place the end of the tubing from your diy yeast generator at the filter intake. the filter impeller mashes up the bubbles and the co2 is adsorbed into the water. works pretty well for me with one of my cannister filters.

 

[talenzmeier]

Here, Here

With the yeast generator, don't you still need something to mix the CO2 into the water?

That's what I did and it works quite well!

 

[Jack]

I have a wet/dry, so no way to send direct to a filter. However, I could send to the return pump. Currently, there is a sponge over the intake. I guess I could remove and put the tubing very close to the intake/impellar. Any thoughts?

Talenzmeier, were you stating that you also used the same method as Corvuscorax?

 

[Guest]

I guess I could remove and put the tubing very close to the intake/impellar. Any thoughts?

Yes, I would try it that way. Or cut a slit in the sponge and stick the tubing in there, something to hold it in place so the bubbles all get sucked into the pump.

 

[Jack]

Yea, I was thinking about cutting a slit in the sponge. That should keep the CO2 from escaping and keep the tubing from moving around.

 

[Guest]

Using DIY on a 75 gallon tank with a wet/dry is akin to mental masturbation. It might make you feel like you are accomplishing something but in reality you aren't.

 

[Jack]

Rex, you might be right. However, it doesn't cost anything. Also, I have a CO2 test kit that came with an iron test kit. Yesterday, after the lights had been on for about 8 hrs., I took a CO2 measurement. It came out to 10-12ppm. I figure that if I measure at the same time of day, I should be able to tell if CO2 is increasing.

Does anybody regularly measure CO2? If so, what level do you try to maintain?

 

[oscarbreeder]

lighten up dude!!!!!!!

 

[Guest]

If you have the CO2 test kit I think you do then it has a huge error factor. In fact the basic kH/pH CO2 chart is not that accurate unless you are using an electronic pH meter. I know I have a hard time telling the difference between the colors on a mid-range pH chart. At best it's always a guess in a .2 point spread. And if you have moderate to high kH a .2 point spread can be a big difference in the CO2 levels.

 

[talenzmeier]

Test It

Before you quickly dismiss the diy method, perhaps you could consider measuring your CO2 levels after the device has been working for a while. That would certainly be the most effective way of determining whether or not it works.

 

[Jack]

That's my plan, Talenzmeier. Maybe large alkalinity swings (alkalinity is same thing as carbonate hardness, just a different scale) could cause some variation, but I could rule that out by measuring alkalinity. To me, the time of day could be a big factor as CO2 should be lowest when the tank lights have been on the longest.

 

[Jack]

Rex, the test kit is a RedSea. RedSea makes pretty decent test kits and the directions did mention carbonate hardness as a factor in CO2. I'll study a little more on this relationship, but if all other things are equal and CO2 increases with the DIY, I have to assume that it's working.